Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Ideal hose clamps. That’s what the Lemans car has. They never leak. For some reason I had it in my head that T-bolt clamps were superior. Maybe in price. 9 in my front setup. 15 in my rear. Going around replacing them all. Nothing but leaks. Yup, I even replaced almost all of them once thinking they were 2 mm too large. Anyone need 30-40 clamps?
 

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Steven Lobel

Supporter
Managed to fix my AC leak ( I think). Large leak from low side schrader valve and small leak from high side. No leaks at my crimps after I fixed the one at low pressure fitting at compressor. Got to get another can of R-134 to test it. Was blowing cold.

Coolant leak fixed with cheap hose clamps.

Shredded my serpentine belt this weekend. Maybe alternator alignment off, maybe an idler pulley had chips. Spare belts ready, pulley replaced. Hope the pulley is the answer. Thoughts?


 

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Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
"Maybe alternator alignment off..."

I've always checked pulley alignment by simply laying an appropriate-length straight edge across the face of two adjacent pulleys.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Track testing today. A couple easy laps. Brakes require lots of push, but hey, they are manual. Only weird thing was I had gas shooting out my VVR vent check valve for a few minutes in the pits. Popping the gas cap off did not remedy this. Called it a day when it happened after driving from pits to starting gate. Got home and took off valve and not clogged. Relocating from firewall to up under top of filler. Has not happened on street runs or prior track testing.

Original location:


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New location:

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Steven Lobel

Supporter
Watch from 5:10 to 5:30. Just being in 3rd and touching the gas pedal can step out the rear. Fortunately it came right back.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Brakes work. Thought for the longest time I would go with a power brake setup. Adjusted bias bar, bedded the pads. Now they work well. Got to get used to pedal effort before I hit the stoppers at AMP. 140 down to 30 into a hairpin turn 1 will take some time to figure out.
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But enjoying the coffee trips until I get the body and wrap done. Will look the same, just better. And some lexan headlight covers.
 

Michael Hampson

Supporter
Looks great and I loved the video. Never been all the way around that track, but would love to do so when I get mine done. Some time, when you're up there, let me know and I'd love to drive up and watch.

Michael

Brakes work. Thought for the longest time I would go with a power brake setup. Adjusted bias bar, bedded the pads. Now they work well. Got to get used to pedal effort before I hit the stoppers at AMP. 140 down to 30 into a hairpin turn 1 will take some time to figure out.View attachment 115300

But enjoying the coffee trips until I get the body and wrap done. Will look the same, just better. And some lexan headlight covers.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Looks great and I loved the video. Never been all the way around that track, but would love to do so when I get mine done. Some time, when you're up there, let me know and I'd love to drive up and watch.

Michael
Track is open for members this Sat/Sun. Might have to head up Sunday morning. Will check with the Mrs and the Jake.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
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Loaded and ready for AMP.

62 and overcast tomorrow. Chilly ride up, great day for the track. If this goes well mechanically, I'm ready for a light sanding, a few filler spots, and RDE Customs in Kennesaw/Woodstock to spray it.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter

1. Rebleed brakes. Tilton video suggests 3 man crew and to do F/R passenger side at same time (inners then outers), then driver side.


At 6:10 or so in my video I did not grab enough pedal and went off track into the sand. Didn't lock them up so I guess I did not push hard enough.

2. Test and tune: Suspension changes include going from R/C full soft (excellent on street) to full hard. Much rougher ride but better handling. Reviewed set up recommendations from QA1 and I will go to 12c 14r front and 10c 12r rear.

3. Came into pits after 20 min lapping and when going to start the car, nothing. ground cable at battery vibrated loose. Came off post. 4mm allen wrench and problem solved. Glad to have an easy fix.

4. Discovery Parts has a shop on track. And tech support. Looked at my harnesses (out of date by a few months- newbie: wait until car is done to buy stuff that expires). Also, my adjuster bars were on front of seat and not back at mount on firewall. He showed me how to move them, lock them down, and curl up excess belt with zip tie. Great tips. New 6pt harnesses to install in blue (to hide the blood form my build).

Getting down to completion as car runs great. Need to adjust my Peterson crankcase vacuum regulator.

Thinking of doing the light sanding and minimal filling/finishing bodywork myself.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
And then......

AC still leaking, but no sign of the UV dye.
Peterson vacuum regulator needs adapter to mate up with line from valve cover (leaking oil)
Found another small leak in coolant line-replaced with ideal hose clamps.
Idler pulley making noise, replacing with Katech.
Need oil catch can and breather, parts ordered. Tank was pressurized when I checked oil after running.
Tilton says 3 man brake bleeding job. Huh? Will bleed them anyways.

Driver outer half shaft boot shredded- had spare from other side doing the same.
Anyone know why? Already happened to me on the passenger side outer. Cannot see anything that could hit it.


And while that is going on, decided to disassemble for sanding/filling and off to paint. So weird running 115mph one day and looking like it is demolished the next.

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