Don's Mk IV Build

Don Nye · Mar 31, 2015

I'll take a look Howard,

Thanks,

dallas_ · Mar 31, 2015

Don Nye said:
My Cobra’s body work was all done by a professional and cost big dollars, I would like to do some of this work this time around.

Not to derail this thread, but what is the status of your Cobra after the deer incident?

Don Nye · Apr 2, 2015

Bad things sometimes happens. To explain to others what happened. Last Friday afternoon while out driving the Cobra with other Texas Cobra's, a Deer decided to cross the road. I never saw him, he hit low front right. He had small horns which went through the radiator and the Cobra went air born over him. Have an appointment with the body shop tomorrow to get the damage estimated.

Driver and passenger were not hurt and the Cobra can be fixed, remember it's just a car. Deer did not make it. Hope to have it out of the body shop before the Mk IV needs to go in.

Everyone be careful out there!

Don

Doc Horror · Apr 2, 2015

Damage doesn't look too bad....

Big-Foot · Apr 2, 2015

Glad you guys are okay...

We have a lot of deer up here in the northern country.. Moose are not uncommon either.. The deer grow MUCH bigger in Minnesota than they do in TX.. Big ones that I saw during the dozen years I ived in TX were upwards of 100#.. Here they are another 50-75# for does and bucks can get over 200# without any problem. Hit one of those guys with a Cobra and it's in your face and on your lap!

Make sure the bodyshop checks for telegraphed damage.. They need to look at all things including the fuel tank. We had one here where the fuel tank bounced off the rear end and back into place again!

silverback · Apr 3, 2015

I am glad to hear you and your passenger are ok as well Don! stay safe...............m

Don Nye · Apr 27, 2015

Have been working on the air box intake ductwork. Looking at old photos I have an idea as to what the duct looks like so with pieces of high density foam I shaped the ducts and then covered with body filler and sanded. This was not necessary but this is a learning experience right. Once I had the shapes I covered with clear packing tape and then wrapped with casting tape, you know the stuff the doctor uses to make a cast for your broken arm. After about five minutes I simply cut the casting tape along one side and slipped the mold out. With a second layer of casting tape.
Turned out well and I’m now ready to glass the ducts to the rear clam shell. I plan on painting the inside with a black Gel Coat paint and the outside will get covered in a truck bed liner with the rest of the underside after paint.
This has been going slow just because I have never done anything like this before but now that I have a process the other ductwork on the car should go faster.
Been thinking of my next project after all the ductwork is finished. Again this will be a first for me making the spare tire door hatch. Hard part I think will be fabricating the hatch support edge on the underside of the body.

Enjoying the journey.
Don
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Don Nye · Apr 27, 2015

Pictures of ideas for next project. I also cut the hole for the oil tank cap.

It's starting to look the part.

Don Nye · May 15, 2015

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Work continues on the air intakes as well as the inside of the car. I’m happy with what the interior is looking like and the seats work.

Enjoy,

Don Nye · Jun 16, 2015

Been working on the final electrical wiring of the front of the car and it became clear to me I did not want all the relays and electrical breakers under the dash. With the seats out it’s a tight fit for me to stand on my head for long periods of time to wire things up and once under the dash I’m always getting out to get some wire connectors or a tool I need. So I decided to locate the relays, circuit breakers and electronic fan controller under the front air scoop where there is easy access and space to work.

The original cars have top mounted brake/clutch pedal assembly however I have gone with the floor mounted pedal assembly provided from RCR with some modification, pedal stops etc. like others have documented on the forum. With this space available I decided to make a weather tight enclosure which looks like the brake pedal assembly cover used on the original cars. The box is 11” wide by 10” long and 4 ½” tall which just fits under the air scoop. It needed to be placed forward of the wiper motor which is located behind it and mounted to the air scoop, see attached pictures. The wiper motor provided is a marine product and fits well in the space available. I used 2” spacers to make the shaft the right height above the aluminum scoop.

¼ turn fasteners will be used on the front and sides of the electrical box to secure the top and are on my things to do once I have all the front wiring completed and checked out.

The wiring is taking longer than I estimated but it takes time to make the wire management look like it was planned.

Enjoy the pictures.

Don
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Don Nye · Jun 29, 2015

I got word Friday on my way home from work, that the transaxle is completed, tested and ready to ship. I should have my transmission after waiting 13 months within the next two weeks unless the shipping company screws up. Have you noticed that I have become a pessimist through this build?

With that good news I got a shot of energy and finished the wiring of everything on the car, installed the clutch and set the engine back in the car. My goal is to have everything plumbed and wired on the engine before the transmission gets hear so I should be able to mount the transaxle fill it with oil and start the engine. I so much want to hear this thing run!

I attached two photos from this weekend, the clutch installed and the fuel pump wiring completed. The clutch is a nice duel disk unit that should have all the holding capacity I need for the engine I have. The fuel system is simple with a single pump, fuel filter, check valve and electric tank selector valve fit in the left side pod below the cover plate and engine oil cooler. Each tank fuel supply is routed to the selector valve and with no power applied normally is feed from the right side tank. When power is supplied to the selector it feeds from the left side tank. A large equalizing line connects both tanks so there will always be a little more fuel in the left tank not that I plan on running with that idea in mind but I could always have a senior moment and having so much fun driving this car I forget to notice the fuel level. I don’t think that will happen but I’m getting older.

The fuel pump is powered from a relay and only energized when the ignition switch is on. I had planned on connecting the relay to the oil pressure switch so it would only run if oil pressure is present. Starting thinking about it and if oil pressure did fail the gas in the carburetors would keep the engine running to long even if the pump stopped to not cause damage. I may change my mind on this idea but for now the pump runs when the ignition switch is on. If I was really worried about running the engine without oil pressure I should wire the ignition coil through the oil pressure switch so the engine stops when oil pressure is below a set limit. I’ll keep thinking about it.

Enjoy the update and I hope the next one has a video of the engine running. Not that I’m becoming optimistic!

Don
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kcoffield · Jun 29, 2015

Don,
I picked back through your build log and noticed you’re waiting on RBT for a ZF. Did you end up using an external slave cylinder for with the ZF cross shaft and fork or go with the McLeod or similar hydraulic slave and Throw Out Bearing? I ask because I recently fit the McLeod RST and Hydraulic TOB to a sbf. I’m not on the road yet, and although I like the quality of the clutch and TOB, I can tell you they didn’t know a thing about fitting one to the ZF even though they claimed to. They sent what was supposed to be a ZF install kit that had no ZF specific parts, and after several frustrating iterations sent me a TOB spacer that was incorrect in 2/3 critical dimensions and there were no provisions to keep the TOB actuator from spinning on the input shaft collar. I finally just through it in the trash can and made my own spacer. According to McLeod, supposedly the plumbing was supposed to stop the TOB actuator assembly from rotating under load which didn’t sit well with me for high rpm shifts so I incorporated a floating mechanical stop into the spacer that sits on the input shaft collar behind the TOB assembly. I have some sketches and the only thing that could vary for an FE install would be the height of the spacer depending upon your bell housing.
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Best,
Kelly

roots · Jun 29, 2015

Hi,Don your build looks great,where did you get your stickers for your toggle switches?

Don Nye · Jun 30, 2015

Kelly,
Yes RBT is providing my ZF well kind of. It seems all new ZF’s are built by HP Gear in Texas for RBT. I ordered my ZF through Pantera Performance in Colorado because of Dennis’s experience with racing these transmissions. I have never used a ZF before so I know very little but Dennis came up with a great external slave bracket that uses the ZF cross shaft and fork. This is all new to me so I will take some pictures when it arrives and report on how it works. Time will tell if I went down the right rabbit trail.
Wayne,
The switch plate is made of clear Lexan, painted white than painted black on the front side. The letters are engraved through the black layer of paint exposing the white. You may have noticed the aircraft style dash lights, those black things, they have a red lenses that make the white letters glow red at night. If I get time I will try and take a picture at night with the dash lights on, it’s kind of cool looking. Before you give me credit for this knowledge I want to give all the credit to Jim who explained the process of how the dash was made in 1967.
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roots · Jun 30, 2015

Don did you engrave the pannel your self?
Thanks wayne

Don Nye · Jun 30, 2015

No Wayne I was very lucky to find an original switch plate I purchased. I made a panel and was ready to send to the engraver when I found this one I'm using.

dallas_ · Jun 30, 2015

Don Nye said:
I should have my transmission after waiting 13 months within the next two weeks

Wow, finally.
Looking forward to seeing that big block fire up.

kcoffield · Jul 1, 2015

Don Nye said:
Kelly,.....I have never used a ZF before so I know very little but Dennis came up with a great external slave bracket that uses the ZF cross shaft and fork. This is all new to me so I will take some pictures when it arrives and report on how it works. Time will tell if I went down the right rabbit trail.

Nothing wrong with an external slave. I've ran one on my Pantera for 15 years. Good thing about the external slave is if you have a leak or seal problem with the slave, you don't have to pull the transmission to get to the TOB actuator. -Nice build and good luck as you come down the home stretch.

Best,
K

Don Nye · Jul 7, 2015

I know everyone likes pictures so this a little detail look at what it's looking like as of last night.

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I’m waiting on one AN fitting to finish the oil hose routing which is the reason why #7 exhaust tube is not installed. I’m also waiting for some aluminum coolant tubes to finish the water piping.

The close-up pictures shows some of the details starting with the ID plate I had made. If you have looked at some of the originals they have a similar name plate. I’m not hiding the fact this is a replica. You need to look close to see the AC controls on the dash. I made the remote oil filter support over the weekend. I needed to be in that location but I did not want to stop someone from adjusting the arms for the rear clam shell adjustment. Hoping that when I set the rear clam shell back on that no adjustment is need but if needed it can be done.

I’m really happy the way all the small details are looking, i.e. the dash, switch/fuse box, electrical connectors for the dash, tanks, coolers and engine compartment.

Once the last few parts arrive I should be able to prime the engine oil pump system, fill with water and put gas in the tanks. I’m thinking of starting the engine without the transmission.

Enjoy,

brianstewart · Jul 7, 2015

Very, very nice Don.

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