Brett's RS GTD

Howard Jones

Here's a g50 xx setup in my SLC same idea though. Instead of a bearing I uses a long piece of tubing with a pretty close ID to bolt OD tolerance.


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To borrow a term from PaulBav, slowgress is being made.

Started to 'actually' fix the dash loom permanentaly in place, which has resulted in starting the work on the drivers side of boxing in the fuel filler hose. With that, decided that until that work is done I can't do anymore front to middle work, so I've switched focus on back to middle. So a whole new set of 'Green' tasks have been put up on the white board (items written in green are the next tasks to work on to stop me flitting around and getting distracted).

The Reverse switch has all been done and connected up with the superseals and then yesterday I got a bit of time and managed to quickly make up the speed sensor bracket and get the magnets bonded onto the CV adaptor. All tested and then connected up = another task removed off the very bigh task list :thumbsup:

Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr

Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr
Looking good Brett, slowgress is the only way to go, gives your heed (said like your kinsmen) more subconscious processing time, will ultimately lead to a better solution. Do you have an electronic speedo? Mine is mech but I am fitting a Honeywell sensor to monitor the speed via the bolt heads on the CV adapter and have a circuit to convert the count for so I can auto adjust the assistance of the Corsa C EPAS column.

The Honeywell sensor is quite good, it has an integral magnet, so you can count notches or bolt heads. It needs a 2mm gap. The output is 0.4V so you may need a converter (to take it to 12V) for some applications.

FYI - I have developed a few microprocessor products, fog latch, push button EPAS controller,..... my latest is a speed converter for the Corsa B&C columns, allows you to convert your speed pulse count (whatever it may be) to the correct count needed by the Corsa column, so you don't have to have a switch or knob to adjust the assistance, this circuit will do it automatically.

Oh, forgot to ask, does your bracket have a notch to stop it drifting round and the sensor hitting the magnet?


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Keith, yes it's an electronic Smiths Classic Speedo. The sensor is the one that matches it, which comes with magnets. When I had the CV adaptor made up, I had recesses put in, so it wasn't hard to do in reality; just plonk them on with a bit of epoxy to make sure they don't move.

As for the bracket, no notch, but if that sucker moves I'll be amazed...

A little ore progress today

The other fuel filler area panelled off

Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr

and then fitting some fo the other relays in and securing that end of the dash loom. With starting off some other jobs elsewhere, all in all, very happy with the progress this weekend :D

Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr
Hmpf, didn't realise I hadn't posted for so long. Anyhoos, things have been happening with more connections finished off and wires repositioned/termiated depending on what I have done to the car.

To get away from the monotony of 'just' doing electrics, I did something slightly electrical and tried to figure out how to do the central locking. Thanks to Mick at SGT for sending me pics, but I unfortunately could not do the nice and simple thing he did due to where the mountings were in relation to the locks :( So I started to do a few levers for one lock last weekend and then in semi-darkness on Thursday night, I put in thw quick mountings. It didn't seem that untidy until I took the photo below... oh well, it's out of sight and it works...

Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr
Thanks Brett tidy job!

I'm hoping to fit mine on the vertical do think that would work?
Is that a plastic metal you are using (black compound)?

Cheers Pal
The black is just a MS Polymer adhesive, a mere £5 a tube from Toolstation of all places. Nice thing about it is that it doesn't dry out like poly tubes.

The photos that Mick sent me had the lock in the vertical plane, but I couldn't get the same configuration in place, as the rivnuts for the lock were in a different place and would have interfered with it (my locks are supplied by SGT). This in reality did not take that long to do, even for me. I just had to modify the pivot point/top arm slightly after the first install as it wasn't getting enough movement. The middle pivot is just a small piece folded that are screwed into some rivnuts
So an update as I haven't done one for a while.

Good successes recently:
1/ Front and Dash Loom all tidied up and in pretty much
2/ Braking bled last night after a few loose/bad joints

Not quite good success:
The unions on the 1/4 pip for the clutch seem to be weeping, so I need to take them apart and have a look. Does anyone have any tips for this bar the fact that I may have to remake the joints/flares?
If those are at the master cylinder, you might try to find the short flex lines. It will take the stress off the hard lines and they should line up better. Flares are not an easy task.

Thanks Bill, it's the unions further down the line where I've joined sections together.

I'm thinking that the female flares are easier, so replace the female/male and make 2 female and get a male/male adaptor to go in between.
Well, it's taken a long time with work and doing a few other things, but I finally got round to bleeding the hydraulics again tonight.

So far so good with no apparent leaks like last time. I'll leave a few days and see if there has been any on the wraps I have put round the unions.

However, I do have a problem :( The clutch pedal is solid.

To try and diagnose, I took the slave out and it appears to be moving fine. Pushed all the way in and then my friend pushed on the clutch and we have movement. So it appears that the problem may be down to inside the gearbox :thumbsdown:

So I guess a few options and need some advice. I bought the slave, as it was the Audi cylinder that the new RF team used on their 01E boxes, as it has a push on adaptor that they sent to me. So the travel should be OK?

As the car has been sitting there so long, could things be seized inside the box? If so, what is the best way to diagnose this and potentially resolve?
Brett, could it be a blockage in the pipe system outside the slave? If you loosen the coupling into the slave and press the pedal does the fluid leak out, I don't have to tell you to tighten the nut before releasing the pedal. K
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So a long time again between posts, some down to the weather, some down to other hobbies and family... but mainly because I was getting these done as a favour and it has taken a while. So 'hopefully' I can put the adaptor onto the release bearing and we will have success (once the rear of the car is rebuilt). Many thanks to Chris for his input.

The other thing is a new gear arm. Previously the cross gate cable went straight onto the selector arm, but I felt that it didn't get enough movement. So I am redesigning this and using the bell crank to help alter the ratios and hopefully get better movement.

20150310_103030 by Brett-GT40, on Flickr
So unfortunately the adaptor didn't work, so I reverted back to Jim's method and turned down a spacer and then used Loctite 480 to bond it on (I also forgot to take a picture after I did this so here's the before...)


Finally put it back on last night and yes, the clutch engages, WOHOO! It's also been an opportunity to have a look at the cross-gate shifting, so I am reworking the mechanism and implementing a bell crank rather than go directly in. Here's the initial setup. I just need to work out the new cable run (it's tight now) and also a mount for the cable.


The only downside, which is also a blessing in disguise is that we found some seepage on one of the rear brake line joints, so have re-tightened everything and will leave it a week to see if we get and fluid loss.

Who knows at this rate I might get this car done by the time I retire (I'm 40 in August...) :laugh:
Can't tell from the pic, but if you didn't include a bearing at the seat of the bell crank, you should consider it. Over time the bolt threads will wear the hole to an oblong configuration and it will create a sloppiness to the mechanism. The bearing is designed to absorb the stress.