Yep, no issues with brake pedal travel on this car. Seems like everything got cleared up by replacing the residual valve. I went ahead and replaced both instead of just doing the problematic rear.
My AC woes continue to plague me, I've been troubleshooting the system for about a week now.
Here's a photo of the crimper tool I've been using. It was purchased directly from Vintage Air I believe:
And here's that problematic hash mark:
I distinctly recall being very paranoid when I crimped my fittings and I was sure to ONLY crimp down to the line. I wasn't sure what would happen if I over-crimped the fittings and I was worried that maybe I might fail the inner tube if I over-compressed the outer. Well ... that's not an issue. I've completely pulled my entire AC system apart and re-crimped every line, ensuring that my jaws move down at least a turn or more past the hash mark. In all cases, that has cured whatever leak we detected at that fitting.
I really chased my tail on this one - fix one leak and another pops up. Makes sense, the leaks move to the point of least resistance. As you fix one leak, it just moves to the next. Previously, I had pulled all my easily-accessible fittings and re-crimped those. Well ... Vacuum and pressure tests looked good so I charged everything up. Give it a few days of driving and cycling the AC and I noticed compressor efficiency was down and it wasn't blowing as cold any more. Pull out the gauges and wouldn't you know, pressures were down. Go around with the blacklight and small spots of leakage. The worst part was the #10 fitting going through my bulkhead was leaking as was the fitting going into the evaporator. So ...
Out comes my entire dash, AC plumbing, and every switch on the dash. To drop the evaporator meant I had to access some bolts that could only be gotten to from the top ... uuungh! I took this opportunity to go in and pull that Chinese video processor that died on me. Also did some re-wiring while I was in there.
Getting to the #10 bulkhead fitting was ... painful. There's very little room between the bodywork and the chassis, even less when you're trying to snake a fat rubber hose around.
The good news is I was able to re-crimp EVERY fitting and my latest vacuum and pressure tests come out positive (not that it means much based on past experience). The vacuum pump was able to get even lower than before (less than 30 inHg) so there's a positive sign there.
Button everything up and I've got cold AC again! ... for about a day. Driving the car around, I noticed my compressor stopped cycling. Pull the hood off, start tracing wires and all signs point to a dead trinary switch. I can force the compressor clutch to engage by jumping the signal wire but there's definitely some type of an issue with the trinary - think the low pressure detection circuit has died. There's a local radiator shop that's got one available that I'll be picking up tomorrow.
Fingers crossed the new trinary is the last piece of the AC debacle. Suffice it to say, I've become very familiar with the AC system's plumbing, wiring, and operation. If it weren't for these AC issues I'd be pretty pleased with how the teething issues have been going so far.