Carbon GT mono

Urs

Supporter
I started with the front section , with fitting of the radiator.
 

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I have no interest in glass and resins.
Its just not my thing, but it nice to see a craftsman at work.

Well done, this will be an outstanding car.

Jim
 
The vertical sections either side of the radiator have a brown/yellow colour to them. Is that the core showing through a very thin layer of carbon or have you used a carbon/kevlar mix?
 

Urs

Supporter
The vertical sections either side of the radiator have a brown/yellow colour to them. Is that the core showing through a very thin layer of carbon or have you used a carbon/kevlar mix?

Hello this are fibrelam panels with
honeycomb Core.used also as floorpanels in airliners.
Greetings Urs
 
Urs

It looks like your construction of the front inner panel is quite symetrical inside the Front clip. Usually the opening of the nostril panel is not centered in the front clip ( one of the design glitches of the original cars, if i remember right without having my car in front of me it is offset to the right side if you look onto it form the front.
If you have not corrected this in your mould, the front clip will be offset to the final wheel position to the left side ( again looked on it from standing in front of the car) if you make everything symetrical like it looks on the pictures. So your front clip will have an overhang over the tire more on ones side than the other. This makes your car looking akward somehow.
My reco is, stay away from pure symetrical measurements and try to achieve the best overall optical result. The nostril panel is closed anyway and noone will see a assymetrical inner construction.
Hope you understoo what i tried to explain.

Best thing ist to mount the wheels and suspension first on your ( i assume ) 100% symetrical chassis) and than align the body along the wheel lines and wheel centers.
Check out my build log, i´ve described there how i´ve done it, and without any bragging i think i still have one of the best aligned cars in terms of bodywork out there. Even if i have a RCR Body which is a copy of an original car and not a copy of another replica, the Nostril panel offset i have seen on quite a lot of Replica makes.

Thanks

TOM
 

Urs

Supporter
Hello Tom

Thank you for the tip. I centered the front Part but it goes now under the front shell now , so i have space to adjust, i hope enough space.

Ill look in your thread how you did it thank you.

I hope to see your car soon ;)




Urs

It looks like your construction of the front inner panel is quite symetrical inside the Front clip. Usually the opening of the nostril panel is not centered in the front clip ( one of the design glitches of the original cars, if i remember right without having my car in front of me it is offset to the right side if you look onto it form the front.
If you have not corrected this in your mould, the front clip will be offset to the final wheel position to the left side ( again looked on it from standing in front of the car) if you make everything symetrical like it looks on the pictures. So your front clip will have an overhang over the tire more on ones side than the other. This makes your car looking akward somehow.
My reco is, stay away from pure symetrical measurements and try to achieve the best overall optical result. The nostril panel is closed anyway and noone will see a assymetrical inner construction.
Hope you understoo what i tried to explain.

Best thing ist to mount the wheels and suspension first on your ( i assume ) 100% symetrical chassis) and than align the body along the wheel lines and wheel centers.
Check out my build log, i´ve described there how i´ve done it, and without any bragging i think i still have one of the best aligned cars in terms of bodywork out there. Even if i have a RCR Body which is a copy of an original car and not a copy of another replica, the Nostril panel offset i have seen on quite a lot of Replica makes.

Thanks

TOM
 

Urs

Supporter
Here some pictures of the nose section.
I put in the oil cooler with an airchannel that takes the air under the watercooler .
 

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Hi Urs

nice inner panel. Be shure to leave enough gap to enable any overpressure under the front clip to escape. Thats the reason why original cars had a not fully sealed compartment there.
My car is like the originals under the front clip. Even if this is not sealed perfectly with the clip and there are wide open sections, there is no waterspray or dirt in that area behind the cooler and at front of the chassis. Which for me is a sign that there is a overpressure existing. If one would totaly seal the cooler and the nostril panel to the cooler, so that no air can escape to under the clip than this overpressure would be minimized.

TOM
 

Urs

Supporter
Hello Tom.
We Do airchannels from water and oilcooler direct to the nostrils. we dont want to have any hot Air, that goes somewhere through the front clip
When we dont get away enough warm air we have to Do the Single nostril, which i dont really Like.
 

Urs

Supporter
Good morning.
Last week my father welded the rear suspension :)
He also machined the forks for the trailing arms in titan.
I did build up the fit for the RCR Bow over the gearbox with flocks.
And i drilled the holes for the rear suspension.
here some pictures.
 

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Looking at the ears that the bow bolts to, are they carbon and resin for their full thickness of it the a thin sheet of core material in there as well?
 

Urs

Supporter
Couldn't the lower rear wishbone been carbon as well?
Hello
Yess but...
We will look first, if the car is driving well and then ill do them also in carbon. I did the front A-arms twice and that was really a lot of lost time. :(
 

Urs

Supporter
Now my father did a lot of work on the car :) now we fittet in the engine, and checked the fitt of the exhaust system and the fit of the watercooler lines and oil cooler lines. The dry sump tank is also fitted to the chassis.
He also started with the door hinges. Now we can move the doors for the first time in position :))
here some pictures.
 

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