Converting RHD SLC to LHD

Well, I either got a hell of a deal or just created a ton of work for myself. Ended up winning an unfinished 2015 SLC on eBay. It has the fiberglass tub and front lift options which is nice. I’ll need a windshield and tires. From all my research I think I can flip the steering rack, drill a new hole in the footwell. The steering column I can live with if I can’t flip the accessories or I’m sure I can source a cheap one. I’ll also have to convert the dash. My biggest concern is having room in the footwell for pedals and the seat. If anyone has measurements of the difference in footwell width that would be great. Will be powered by a 6L LS and G96 transmission. All thoughts are welcome.
 

Roger Reid

Supporter
If the chassis was built for the right hand drive, why not leave it that way. Is there a law in the USA that prevents right hand drive registration?
 
You have the basis for a good car. First thing I would have done before bidding was talk to RCR and ask what it would take to convert it to left hand drive. I actually considered bidding on the car (for about a second) but getting it into Canada right now was looking to be a hassle with border restrictions. I had a brief chat with Canada Customs and they were not encouraging.
 
Congratulations! I kept my eye on that ebay listing over the weekend too.
Anyway, didn't you say in an earlier post you weren't going to bid on this :-D
haha you'll enjoy it.

Normally changing steering location is not too difficult if you are starting with a scratch built anyway.
You'll obviously need a new dash, and you'll have to do some welding and drilling I"m guessing.
 
Well, I either got a hell of a deal or just created a ton of work for myself. Ended up winning an unfinished 2015 SLC on eBay. It has the fiberglass tub and front lift options which is nice. I’ll need a windshield and tires. From all my research I think I can flip the steering rack, drill a new hole in the footwell. The steering column I can live with if I can’t flip the accessories or I’m sure I can source a cheap one. I’ll also have to convert the dash. My biggest concern is having room in the footwell for pedals and the seat. If anyone has measurements of the difference in footwell width that would be great. Will be powered by a 6L LS and G96 transmission. All thoughts are welcome.
Hi,
if you flip over the steering-rack, when turning right, the wheels pointing to the left, strange feeling........ you will need a lhd steering-rack
Paul
 
If the chassis was built for the right hand drive, why not leave it that way. Is there a law in the USA that prevents right hand drive registration?
No laws against it, just extremely unpractical. I haven’t driven a stick in years and I can’t imagine doing it left handed would be easy.
You have the basis for a good car. First thing I would have done before bidding was talk to RCR and ask what it would take to convert it to left hand drive. I actually considered bidding on the car (for about a second) but getting it into Canada right now was looking to be a hassle with border restrictions. I had a brief chat with Canada Customs and they were not encouraging.
I wasn’t initially going to bid, but once Sunday rolled around and the price wasn’t up too high I couldn’t pass. I’ll contact the factory today.
Congratulations! I kept my eye on that ebay listing over the weekend too.
Anyway, didn't you say in an earlier post you weren't going to bid on this :-D
haha you'll enjoy it.

Normally changing steering location is not too difficult if you are starting with a scratch built anyway.
You'll obviously need a new dash, and you'll have to do some welding and drilling I"m guessing.
Ya I wasn’t initially going to bid but couldn’t pass after Saturday. CamT informed me someone here may have a take off rack so hopefully I can source that easier. The dash I attempt to convert myself. The spline could be an issue, we’ll see once I get into it.
Hi,
if you flip over the steering-rack, when turning right, the wheels pointing to the left, strange feeling........ you will need a lhd steering-rack
Paul
I was laying in bed last night working out the rotation and you’re right.
 
Hey Kyle, let me know if you're missing any other misc parts after delivery. I have some left overs from my build that I don't need. Wiper motor, mirrors, steering wheel, first gen seats, etc

And congrats! That's a nice score, the steering rack will be an easy fix. Interesting to see how you make out with the smaller footprint for the new driver location.
 
so, just a fyi, you probably already know this, the center spine of the chassis is offset i think 4 inches to the passenger side. swaping the from RHD to LHD is going to leave you with a pretty narrow drivers side. If your are really tiny you maybe ok. If you are a 6'3" "gentleman" you might be in for a rough (tight?) ride.

bob
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I just measured my tub. The spine is offset 2 inches. The pedal assembly will just barely fit before interfering with the lower control arm inner mount. The seating position verses the cluster and pedals will be odd. If you use a "gentleman's" seat the problem is that much worse. I guess the fiberglass tub center section will have to be cutout and re positioned as well.

It sold for $31400.
 
Hey Kyle, let me know if you're missing any other misc parts after delivery. I have some left overs from my build that I don't need. Wiper motor, mirrors, steering wheel, first gen seats, etc

And congrats! That's a nice score, the steering rack will be an easy fix. Interesting to see how you make out with the smaller footprint for the new driver location.
Hey appreciate it, I’ll be in touch!
so, just a fyi, you probably already know this, the center spine of the chassis is offset i think 4 inches to the passenger side. swaping the from RHD to LHD is going to leave you with a pretty narrow drivers side. If your are really tiny you maybe ok. If you are a 6'3" "gentleman" you might be in for a rough (tight?) ride.

bob
According to Fran I shouldn’t have too much of an issue. A little tight but doable. I’m 5’11 195, no gut! So I’m hoping I’m ok.
I just measured my tub. The spine is offset 2 inches. The pedal assembly will just barely fit before interfering with the lower control arm inner mount. The seating position verses the cluster and pedals will be odd. If you use a "gentleman's" seat the problem is that much worse. I guess the fiberglass tub center section will have to be cutout and re positioned as well.

It sold for $31400.
Thanks for the measurement, that was my biggest worry is the pedals fitting. I may be modifying my dash and center console extensively, much like CamT did. In fact, I’ve read his build multiple times so I’ll use what he did to build from.
 
A few new updates...
The car has been sitting untouched since 15’, as it was destined for Thailand. The owner has never touched it. Yesterday they went to put in the fiberglass tub and realized it wouldn’t fit.....was shipped with a LHD tub. So essentially the thing has sat for 5 years without even realizing it has the wrong tub. They are contacting RCR to see if it can be resolved.

The plan is to drive up this weekend to get it, I don’t trust a shipping company, especially when the wheels aren’t even on it. I’m assuming 2015 was a time when RCR shipped them as parts only and not rollers.

I had another thread where I posted I was able to make my LS harness standalone. However, everyone advises that I should ditch the ISIS/infinity harness and use my own rendition. I think my plan is to ditch my factory LS harness and use the Holley Terminator with the LCD dash. That should give me complete engine values as well as a nice screen with MPH, odometer etc. As far as the car power management. I think I can use a universal harness from Painless Performance.

By going this wiring route it will allow me to tune and manage my engine without having a tuner do it ($500 savings), cleaner wiring, nicer dash, etc. I am clueless when it comes to the car wiring though. I don’t mine spending money for the Holley terminator, but I don’t want to drop a ton for the car wiring when it’s literally only being used for basic power components. If anyone can advise that would be great.

Car plans are as follows...
1. Built LQ4, should be at over 500Hp crank. Future plans are turbos. Will be testing my tig skills and custom building my exhaust.
2. G96 trans, won’t handle turbos but should be fine for now.
3. Plan to modify the street tail into a quasi race tail.
4. Will either buy the RCR gated shifter or Audi gated.
5. Battery in front with lift system should balance my weight.
6. Plan for plastidip. I love the idea of being able to change colors on a whim.
7. Need to completely waterproof the car, south Florida is brutal with downpours when you least expect them.
8. No cabin heat, only AC, more than likely buy the dirty dingo mount.
67E409BE-2EB8-4023-91E5-BE784541B743.jpeg
 
Coach One wiring harness. Using it on my FFR and love it.

 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
RCR and Audi gated shifters are only designed to work with the Graziano transaxle.

Bring tires with you and have them mounted while picking up the car. The pictures of the car on eBay look like it was setup as a roller.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I would make the leap and cut out the center spine with a saw and high-speed cut off wheel. Then buy some 2X6X1/8 & 2x2x1/8 aluminum tubing and re-weld it back in in the LH location. The welding isn't so difficult that a pro welder couldn't do it in a few hours. If you did the majority of the prep and cutting and fitting it wouldn't be all that expensive. Hundreds not thousands. Then you can start your build with a common LH chassis. It will be worth more in the US like that also.

I would also find the welder first and show him some pictures to be sure you have a firm commitment. Be prepared to take him the bare chassis so he can orientate it as he desires for welding.

You will be very happy when you are taking it home from the welder.
 
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RCR and Audi gated shifters are only designed to work with the Graziano transaxle.

Bring tires with you and have them mounted while picking up the car. The pictures of the car on eBay look like it was setup as a roller.
That’s unfortunate I didn’t know that about the shifter.
I would make the leap and cut out the center spine with a saw and high-speed cut off wheel. Then buy some 2X6X1/8 & 2x2x1/8 aluminum tubing and re-weld it back in in the LH location. The welding isn't so difficult that a pro welder couldn't do it in a few hours. If you did the majority of the prep and cutting and fitting it wouldn't be all that expensive. Hundreds not thousands. Then you can start your build with a common LH chassis. It will be worth more in the US like that also.

I would also find the welder first and show him some pictures to be sure you have a firm commitment. Be prepared to take him the bare chassis so he can orientate it as he desires for welding.

You will be very happy when you are taking it home from the welder.
I had considered this. I’ll need to get a closer look at it when I get it. From pictures it looks as if the long center spline is only welded every few inches, under the dash probably much more. Fran advises against it but we shall see.
 
I would make the leap and cut out the center spine with a saw and high-speed cut off wheel. Then buy some 2X6X1/8 & 2x2x1/8 aluminum tubing and re-weld it back in in the LH location. The welding isn't so difficult that a pro welder couldn't do it in a few hours. If you did the majority of the prep and cutting and fitting it wouldn't be all that expensive. Hundreds not thousands. Then you can start your build with a common LH chassis. It will be worth more in the US like that also.

I would also find the welder first and show him some pictures to be sure you have a firm commitment. Be prepared to take him the bare chassis so he can orientate it as he desires for welding.

You will be very happy when you are taking it home from the welder.
This was my thought when I first considered bidding on this project. Another thought is a good welder can inspect the car for any weld damage from shopping or just from sitting in the corner of a shop for 5 years ignored. Ignored projects in a shop often get moved around and there isn't much love given to an abandoned project.
 
Well the car is home safely. Uneventful but long 19hr drive each way. First few things come to mind.... this thing is tiny and low to the ground. It’s really hard to grasp the scope until it is in front of you. It’s sat for 5 years so I have a little cleaning to do, some minor surface rust on the front wheel assemblies, some oxidation here and there.

I’m really not sure where to start, I’ll probably start in the front and make a fan shroud, do brake lines and cooling, etc. I elected to keep the LHD tub and make it work, after sitting in the car I doubt I will cut the spline. It is a ton of work and after seeing how much structure is involved it just isn’t worth it.

Again, I’m 5’11 195. You guys that are over 6’1 200+ must be jammed in there, I don’t know how you do it.

A few things missing....
Outside door handles( 97 Miata?)
Engine mount for LS. Will maybe fabricate my own unless somehow has one.
Going so sell the Graz adapter and cables.

If anyone wants to take a look at the pics and see if anything is odd.
 

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Congratulations on getting her home. Let the fun begin!!

Love the wheels! Traction may be an issue with those tires though, LOL.

I did not see anything in your pics that jumped out at me as an issue. Others may be able to critique further.

Your starting point for assembly sounds good. Be sure you get access to the manual online from RCR and read it at least twice. I would suggest you put together a build schedule of the order you plan to do things. Reading the manual will help with this. I would also suggest generating a bill of materials to track what you need to purchase for the car and what you have purchased.
 
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