Converting RHD SLC to LHD

[Howard Jones]

You're right Alex

The Lexan windshield is many multiplies easier to fit. I have one on my track car. I trimmed it to fit with a palm sander and clamped it on. No glue. I will come off in 15 mins. They are a lot cheaper than glass ones also. If your location will allow one on a streetcar I would consider using one if not only for the unbreakable aspect. I have had golfball-sized stones bonce off mine at more than 100mph leaving only a small pin sized pockmark. I don't believe it CAN crack from an impact like that. A windshield would be completely ruined with a similar hit.

Mine has about 2000 track miles on it and It's showing the wear from thrown up tire/grit swarf. I may replace it next year. All in all, they are remarkably resistant to scratching. The one on my car has a hard coating on it that is very hard.

Alex, I was wondering how they do with a windshield wiper? Any experience with that?

 

[Alex]

Not a clue - I don't use wipers on any of my cars. If I had to guess I'm certain continued use of the wiper would marr it at a minimum (as you're rubbing dirt across it when you're cleaning the windshield)

Whatever coating Shields uses is definitely tough as nails and at least as durable as MR10 lexan.

 

[Kyle]

Some progress today....

1. Followed Allan's video and fit the tub and spider much better.

2. Just couldn’t get the supplied lines to work so I ran new NiCopp front brake lines. Still need to mount the one way valve for the rear brakes.

3. Mounted the horns, reservoir tanks, and laid out the battery position.

4. Mounted my front lifts, pump and lines.

5. Wheels are being powder coated black, tank is being welded up.

Nothing is fastened yet, only mocked up, waiting on grommets, etc.

Big thanks to Scott, Rob, and Mahlon for the parts...steering rack, springs and dash.

 

[Neil]

I've found this stuff helpful for lining holes to prevent chafing.

GROMMET EDGING M22529/2-3R | Aircraft Spruce

GROMMET EDGING M22529/2-3R Spring-Fast® Composite Grommet Edging covers sharp edges of panels that come in contact with wires and cables, and mechanically locks on indefinitely with finger pressure, in only seconds per foot, a significa

www.aircraftspruce.com

 

[Kyle]

I'll be messing with the A'C stuff soon...

I want the evaporator to sit flat against the understand of the "dash", the aluminum frame of the car. However the capillary tube doesn't allow this. Has anyone taken the tube and cut a small slit down either side and fit the tub "inside" the plastic evap housing? This would allow it to be perfectly flat. I've attached cams pic that shows how it runs across. From what I know about it the cap tube, it just senses the temperature blowing across the exchanger coils and adjusts the refrigerant pressure based on that. As long as I maintain it in the same location I don't see why it would be an issue, it will allow me to greatly simply the evap mounting.

 

[Cam]

It’s a plastic housing, you can push it up against the underside of your dash area and secure it as it is, the housing will deform enough to accommodate. Try it on a flat sheet of aluminum and see if it’s flush enough for what you need. I wouldn’t recommend cutting the housing as you suggest. If anything I might see if I could relocate the tip to the opposite side (underside), but that leaves the tube exposed to possible kicking by a passenger’s legs. The tube is fairly sensitive and prone to failure if yanked.

Depending on how you plan to transition between the collector area and pass cold air through to your ductwork, you may want to add some thin sealing strips between the condenser body and foot box anyway, which would give you something of a small gap between the plastic and aluminum.

 

[Kyle]

Took cams advice and ended up moving the cap tube to the bottom. Drilled a small hole and it slid right through, also moved the screws to the side so the top is completely flat. I’ll add some foam tape to get a nice seal and provide some cushion. Ill add some tape to secure it and prevent someone from kicking it. I’ll also add some sealant so the condensate doesn’t drip

I made a radiator shroud this weekend, however, I was so excited about making it that I rushed the process. It came out strong but ugly and not perfect. I ended up getting some of the nasty white foam (wish I had the pink or blue) and made a sort of mold. The glass completely encompasses the radiator and will fit much more nicely. I’ll either do a few short self tap screws or some double sided tape to secure it to the top and bottom of the radiator when done. Still have a few more layers and structure to add.

Old one....

Version 2

 

[Kyle]

On another note, I completely overlooked the fact that I don’t have a “rear glass” for the rear clam. Does anyone have a thickness of the polycarbonate that the factory supplies? I’m going to price RCR and a local supply house.

 

[Joel K]

On another note, I completely overlooked the fact that I don’t have a “rear glass” for the rear clam. Does anyone have a thickness of the polycarbonate that the factory supplies? I’m going to price RCR and a local supply house.

3/16”

 

[Howard Jones]

Take some time and consider using a piece of aluminum with vent holes in it to cool the engine room. Some 1/16" thick sheet or even thinner would replace the window. It would be stronger and not prone to cracking like Lexan. You could even paint it to match the body or simply mate black. There's nothing to see back there from the cockpit anyway and I believe you need the cooling.

 

[Kyle]

Howard, I really want to do the side vents from RCR in the future. I tend to be a person that gets bored quickly so I’m definitely leaving options on the table for future upgrades.

On another note, can anyone confirm whether the LS/graz adapter and LS/g96 adapter would have the same lower mounting location? In other words, I have this adapter sitting around and being able to at least mock up the engine would give me a ton to do while I wait for the LS/96 adapter. I just need to confirm that they are the same, then I could mock up my engine mount, wiring, etc.

I have to imagine they would be the same, if they weren’t then RCR would have to ship different engine to frame mounts for LS/Graziano vs LS/Porsche.

 

[Kyle]

Ended up getting a dash yesterday from another member. Unless you own one of these cars it’s hard to get a scope for how small things are, I always imagined the dash being much larger. I will only have two screens, the radio and my Holley dash. Lots of reglassing work, but now I can finally fit my steering rack and get my pedals mounted.

 

[Cam]

The rear glass vents let out a tremendous amount of heat. After a hard drive, idling the engine, I can’t keep my hand above the louvre openings for very long due to the amount of heat coming through. In motion the engine gets a good amount of airflow (if you don’t close the bottom out).

 

[Kyle]

Made some more progress today. Finally mounted my side cooling pipes, just need to wrap them and button up the connections at the front. Finally finished the shroud and mounted the condenser and fans. Mounted my steering column. Mounted my tank. Tomorrow I’ll be buttoning up the loose ends and probably dropping in the motor.

Few questions, what’s the deal with the steering column joints? I can’t get the screws to tighten enough to create a good clamp.

Also, those that mount the pedal directly to the floor. What bolt nut configuration have you used? I want a flat bottom on the chassis, but the Tilton assembly isn’t very generous for a bolt up from bottom and nut to pedal scenario.

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

Kyle,

You can mount your pedal assembly directly to the floor with flat head cap screws and countersunk holes from below and Allen nuts on the top side. All available from McMaster Carr.

 

[Joel K]

Kyle,

You may have this part and not installed it yet. There should be an L Bracket connecting the steering box to the tub. It normally is mounted to the underside of steering box.

 

[Neil]

Another approach would be to install your pedal assembly with Hi-Locks. These have a very low profile head and tighten a threaded collar (nut) while preventing the shaft from rotating with a hex wrench- all from the inside. For your application you don't need a close-fitting reamed hole.

They are usually found on eBay:

10 Qty Hi-Lok Pins HL20PB-8-4 | eBay

Hi-Lok Pins HL20PB-8-4. 10 Quantity.

www.ebay.com

 

[Kyle]

Kyle,

You can mount your pedal assembly directly to the floor with flat head cap screws and countersunk holes from below and Allen nuts on the top side. All available from McMaster Carr.

Fantastic, I've never seen these before but they will work great.

Kyle,

You may have this part and not installed it yet. There should be an L Bracket connecting the steering box to the tub. It normally is mounted to the underside of steering box.

I actually don't have that piece, I guess I'll have to make one from some aluminum L.

Another approach would be to install your pedal assembly with Hi-Locks. These have a very low profile head and tighten a threaded collar (nut) while preventing the shaft from rotating with a hex wrench- all from the inside. For your application you don't need a close-fitting reamed hole.


They are usually found on eBay:

These look interesting, if the allen nuts don't work out ill go this route. Thanks.

 

[Neil]

These are the collars that thread onto Hi-Loks. When the proper installation torque is reached, the top twists off, guaranteeing that it is tightened. No torque wrench is needed. These are 1/4-28 UNF thread.

10 Qty Hi-Lok Collars HL1087ATW-8 Stainless Steel w/ Aluminum Washer | eBay

Hi-Lok Collars HL1087ATW-8. Lot of 10 collars. Stainless Steel w/ Aluminum Washer.

www.ebay.com

Here is a chart that shows Hi-Lok specs:

https://jet-tek.com/hi-lok-pins/hl20.pdf Note that 1/4-28 Hi-Loks are 9,300 pounds double shear strength.

 

[Kyle]

Looking for ideas/part numbers for the LS drivers side water pump hose. The 90 slim hose with preferably a long leg.