Kyle,
I used this from Pegasus Racing.
It is definitely a very tight fit at the front of the engine.
Converting RHD SLC to LHD
- Thread starter SoFlo
- Start date
I used this from Pegasus Racing.
It is definitely a very tight fit at the front of the engine.
Thanks Kurt, installed that hose today. Really really tight. Eventually once my welding skills improve I’ll replace that.
Need some help from the electrical guys. I’m using the coach control system and Holley ECU. They have basically zero integration into each other except a switched power.
My difficulty lies in the ignition switch arena. I want a push button start. The coach control system uses a keyed ignition switch in their diagram, it’s basically a 12v battery feed into the switch, with accessory switch, ignition switch and then starter solenoid switch.
I’m not sure what this type of switch is called but they are so common, I would assume I can maybe use a factory part from a car.
For security I’m going to have the electric actuator doors with no handles and also wiring in a hidden starter solenoid switch.
Need some help from the electrical guys. I’m using the coach control system and Holley ECU. They have basically zero integration into each other except a switched power.
My difficulty lies in the ignition switch arena. I want a push button start. The coach control system uses a keyed ignition switch in their diagram, it’s basically a 12v battery feed into the switch, with accessory switch, ignition switch and then starter solenoid switch.
I’m not sure what this type of switch is called but they are so common, I would assume I can maybe use a factory part from a car.
For security I’m going to have the electric actuator doors with no handles and also wiring in a hidden starter solenoid switch.
I used a easyguard keyless pushbutton with the Coach-1, very issues to get wired up using the manual from the system.
I have that system as well, albeit a simpler easy guard model. The reason I was confused is the coach system seemed to imply that the “switch” circuits don’t get powered. They are the separate white wires with the white connector on the end. Easy guard directions are saying red-power, black-ground, yellow-starter, blue-accessory, white-ign. Does that sound right to you?
I ran across this post on factory 5, I’m not sure if that’s you or not. It looks like I can wire it up like I planned, my main concern was that the easygaurd was going to send power where it shouldn’t.
Coach-1 Wiring Harness
Since I couldn't use the a Gen-IV Vintage Air AC system, I decide to save my infinity wiring system for a future project that would be bigger (physically) and have more room for electronic gizmos. However I wasn't really keen on using the stock harness, because I'm going to be doing a lot of...
thefactoryfiveforum.com
Yep, that's me. I'm traveling for work today, but should be home in a day or two and can double check my wiring for you. It looks like you have a different coach board than me, however I'm sure it works the same. Most of the coach switches are ground based, but those for the ignition switch are 12+, so you can just run the Acc, Run, and Start wires from the EasyGuard into the Coach.
The other white connectors, Horn, Low Beam, Hi Beam, and Neutral are ground signals. I think the Fan Hi is a 12+ as well.
The other white connectors, Horn, Low Beam, Hi Beam, and Neutral are ground signals. I think the Fan Hi is a 12+ as well.
Perfect thank you. Ya I elected for the coupe 23 board. No windows or locks on the car, just door actuators. I also didn’t feel like I needed the auto dimming lights etc.
Well I’m at the stage where I have a million things to complete and little projects everywhere. Sometimes you just can’t fully complete one thing until you know where another component is going to fit.
I have a lot of wiring to clean up but with what’s there i should be able to run the motor again. I got the push button working and it turns over. I know I have to pull the motor again to creat a close out panel, etc. Which deters me from putting coolant in and starting it. I would like to get an extended run time instead of when it was on the stand and I could only run a few minutes.
I also need to finish routing the a/c lines and get them crimped.
I don’t have the flywheel yet, still waiting on the factory, so couldn’t drive it if I wanted.
I have a lot of wiring to clean up but with what’s there i should be able to run the motor again. I got the push button working and it turns over. I know I have to pull the motor again to creat a close out panel, etc. Which deters me from putting coolant in and starting it. I would like to get an extended run time instead of when it was on the stand and I could only run a few minutes.
I also need to finish routing the a/c lines and get them crimped.
I don’t have the flywheel yet, still waiting on the factory, so couldn’t drive it if I wanted.
Well as you can see my next problem has developed. Hard to tell but the seat bracket is directly up against the lower floor pan, the seat still needs to go over another inch. I’m going to have to think on this, I would like to not have to drop 1k in tillet seats, if they are even narrower I have no idea. Amazing how compact this thing is. I also think I’ll have to add a spacer to the forward mounting point of the the steering column to give it a little more tilt.
Joel K
Supporter
Kyle,
Making good progress.
Check out Kurt’s post #119 for inboard seat brackets that move the seat over as much as 1.5”:
Making good progress.
Check out Kurt’s post #119 for inboard seat brackets that move the seat over as much as 1.5”:
Kurt H (hoffkm) SL-C build thread
Yay, the wiring is complete (for now) or at least as far as I can go for now. Many builders have run wiring on top of the footbox beneath the dash panel. I chose to run all my wiring inside the footbox so I can still access it with the dash panel in place. This was not easy for me to get to...
www.gt40s.com
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I saw this post but it never really resonated with me until now. Maybe I can commission him to make some more, otherwise I’ll have to craft up something else.
Kyle,
I did not make these myself, I had one of our sheetmetal suppliers at work laser cut and bend them for me. The four pieces total came to $100. If you would like a set I would have to get a current quote from them and see what shipping would cost in order to give you a firm price. Looking at your pics your seats are not reclined anywhere near as severe as mine are so this design would not work out for you but we could easily work together to modify it to your mounting requirements. With these brackets I have my seats mounted as far inboard as the center console allows. I am actually planning on trimming the lip on the seat a little just as Joel did with his, the lip is currently touching the center console leaving me no room to cover either of them in leather.
A print is attached for my bracket design (with Joel's help concepting the idea, I cannot take all the credit). If you would prefer you can purchase these locally to you from any sheetmetal fabrication shop. I can create a print with modifications that fit your needs.
So I went and took another look this morning. I think what I’m going to do is put a 1.25in aluminum square tube below the lateral side of the seat mount. The inner side will sit on the floor pan right next to the center spline. I’ll have virtually no space, but I have to create a custom center console anyways. This gets me almost centered with the wheel. It also allows me to drop the seat much more and recline it. You can see the block of wood as a dummy item.
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Kyle
During my build I shoved my seat inboard but forgot to consider seatbelt hookup. That forced me to go back outboard some. Hopefully that is a consideration in your design.
During my build I shoved my seat inboard but forgot to consider seatbelt hookup. That forced me to go back outboard some. Hopefully that is a consideration in your design.
That will be my next item to order, completely forgot about those things, I guess I need them!
Not sure if anyone has any numbers handy to compare, I think I may push it about an inch forward to give me elbow room to the shifts.
Finally got around to making an expansion tank bracket, it will be trimmed to give it a better appearance. Should just clear the rear clam. There is a 5/8 fitting on the bottom that will T into my heater core plugs in the water pump. I’m not running heat in this car.
Finally got around to making an expansion tank bracket, it will be trimmed to give it a better appearance. Should just clear the rear clam. There is a 5/8 fitting on the bottom that will T into my heater core plugs in the water pump. I’m not running heat in this car.
Kyle
Just a thought on the shifter. I bent my shift rod about 20 degrees aft so I could move the shift box forward and to give my hand more room when shifting forward. I kept hitting the dash with my knuckles. Again, just a thought.
Just a thought on the shifter. I bent my shift rod about 20 degrees aft so I could move the shift box forward and to give my hand more room when shifting forward. I kept hitting the dash with my knuckles. Again, just a thought.
I might have to do that Dan, thanks!
Finally got the thing running again. I think everything was software related, once I updated all of my Holley system I was able to keep it running. Used Kurts tune (thanks) and she runs. Needs lots of tuning work. However it’s getting hot so I have to figure out how to bleed the air, any tips? As you can see in the previous pics I have the expansion tank Teed into the heater lines. It is at the highest point. My fans are kicking on as they should as well. Maybe I need to massage the front radiator hose a lot?
Also now I’m getting a nasty squeak that I have to track down, it wasn’t there previously.
Also now I’m getting a nasty squeak that I have to track down, it wasn’t there previously.
Kyle,
It appears you are having the same idle surge issues I was having. The timing table I made (and you now have) helped a lot. Other than that it just needed to learn. Once you run it for a while, get it up to temp, and allow the fuel table to learn the surge will get better/go away. I was surprised at how much fuel mine pulled out of the idle area once it started learning (around 30-45% in a lot of spots). If you look at a graph of the fuel VE table in my tune you will see a "hole/valley" in the idle are of the graph. This is what I am referring to.
Do you have the correct injectors chosen in the Terminator setup? I had originally chosen some that were close in specs to mine. I have since found the exact specs for mine and entered them manually. I think this improved my surging also (in addition to the learning, custom timing and AFR tables) since the fuel changes made by the Terminator are now more precise.
As far as overheating, do you have a bleed line going from your radiator to your surge tank? If you do, that should allow things to pretty much self bleed once it gets up to temp and the thermostat opens. After filling my system I could squeeze the hose at the radiator on the high side and tell it was empty, after running for a while with coolant flowing thru everything this was no longer the case. Another method that may help is the jack up the rear of the car to bring the engine higher than the radiator with the surge tank cap off. This can help to bleed air out of the lines without the assistance of a pressure bleeder (which I have never used personally so I cannot comment on them).
A messy method would be to open the drain valve towards the top side of the radiator tank to let the air out until coolant flows from that spot. This is not 100% and messy at best, not preferred in my mind.
I cannot identify that squeak/squeal. That is a different sound than what I am used to hearing from an engine. Hopefully it is something simple like a belt idler bearing, etc. Is your oil pressure good? I had a much worse noise on my startup because I had too long of a bolt installed in my transmission to the adapter plate and it was rubbing the flexplate. Until I found the source of that one I had a lot of worst case scenarios playing out in my head since I had made so many performance orientated changes to my engine (new cam, timing chain, lifters, rockers, pushrods, etc.).
I like your push button start/keyless system. It looks like some of the ones I had considered before going the simple route with mine. I have a Flaming River battery disconnect with a removable key and billet pushbuttons for ECU power, starter, etc. I am keeping the wiring simple and straightforward but I will lack the simple operation that you will have.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
It appears you are having the same idle surge issues I was having. The timing table I made (and you now have) helped a lot. Other than that it just needed to learn. Once you run it for a while, get it up to temp, and allow the fuel table to learn the surge will get better/go away. I was surprised at how much fuel mine pulled out of the idle area once it started learning (around 30-45% in a lot of spots). If you look at a graph of the fuel VE table in my tune you will see a "hole/valley" in the idle are of the graph. This is what I am referring to.
Do you have the correct injectors chosen in the Terminator setup? I had originally chosen some that were close in specs to mine. I have since found the exact specs for mine and entered them manually. I think this improved my surging also (in addition to the learning, custom timing and AFR tables) since the fuel changes made by the Terminator are now more precise.
As far as overheating, do you have a bleed line going from your radiator to your surge tank? If you do, that should allow things to pretty much self bleed once it gets up to temp and the thermostat opens. After filling my system I could squeeze the hose at the radiator on the high side and tell it was empty, after running for a while with coolant flowing thru everything this was no longer the case. Another method that may help is the jack up the rear of the car to bring the engine higher than the radiator with the surge tank cap off. This can help to bleed air out of the lines without the assistance of a pressure bleeder (which I have never used personally so I cannot comment on them).
A messy method would be to open the drain valve towards the top side of the radiator tank to let the air out until coolant flows from that spot. This is not 100% and messy at best, not preferred in my mind.
I cannot identify that squeak/squeal. That is a different sound than what I am used to hearing from an engine. Hopefully it is something simple like a belt idler bearing, etc. Is your oil pressure good? I had a much worse noise on my startup because I had too long of a bolt installed in my transmission to the adapter plate and it was rubbing the flexplate. Until I found the source of that one I had a lot of worst case scenarios playing out in my head since I had made so many performance orientated changes to my engine (new cam, timing chain, lifters, rockers, pushrods, etc.).
I like your push button start/keyless system. It looks like some of the ones I had considered before going the simple route with mine. I have a Flaming River battery disconnect with a removable key and billet pushbuttons for ECU power, starter, etc. I am keeping the wiring simple and straightforward but I will lack the simple operation that you will have.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
