Dry Sump On a Road Car?

[Ian Anderson]

Ok another question I have - building up the 302 and deciding on bits - is it worth while spending out on a dry sump arrangement when the car will be predominantly used on the road with the occasional track day.

Or is it overkill?

Ian

 

[Randy V]

It is overkill Ian...

Just put a good oil pan/sump on it that's properly baffled, fresh oil and set the oil pump pickup to be no more than 3/8" from the bottom of the pan. 1/4" is the closest it should be. Make sure you're measuring along with gasket thickness as well..

 

[Ron Earp]

Agree.

People forget that there are thousands of dedicated race cars racing every weekend in the US and UK that have wet sumps. And they don't blow up due to oil control every weekend, or even every year. Or every other year.

 

[Jeff Young]

In fact, as I understand it, most street car manufacturers that do use a dry sump do it for clearance purposes and not really for oil control.

 

[Jack]

I'm using a Corvette "Batwing" oil pan on my LS engine in the SL-C. Plenty of ground clearance and good oil control. Primarily built as a street car, the added expense of a dry sump system is simply not necessary.

 

[Pat Buckley]

I did a dry sump on my Kirkham mainly because I could and I thought it looked racy.

The actual benefit was the fact that it slowed wear on the bronze distributor gear.

 

[Rich E.]

Like stated above yet if you ever do notice low pressure you can add an accusump. Helluva lot cheaper than a 4-5 stage dry sump system.

 

[Mike Pass]

A good gated sump will be plenty good enough. Dry sump setups are expensive and not necessary. If you have road clearance issues Canton do a nice big capacity gated sump which is less deep but you will need the correct oil pickup to suit.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Howard Jones]

Unless You are pulling something north of 2G's for long periods of time (pavement circle track cars on race slicks would be a good example) then I don't see it being necessary. Pretty much not going to happen on street tires.

The added complexity of the pumps, hoses, oil tank, and belt drive might just make it more likely to fail in a street car.

Check out the Canon Oil pans made for road racing. I have one and it works just fine for me.


www.cantonracingproducts.com

 

[Doc Kaler]

I would concur that it's not needed for street or limited track use. You might consider an Accusump to protect against oil pressure drops during "spirited" driving.

 

[Ron Earp]

And they don't blow up due to oil control every weekend, or even every year. Or every other year.

But they do sometimes blow up due to oiling issues. For occasional track days on DOT race tires I think you'll be fine. Even racing on DOT race tires I think you'll be fine - my T70 has the Canton pan and seems to do well.

But that isn't to say I wouldn't like a wet sump on my T70. It'd get the engine lower and I would really like that. What I don't like is practically having to rebuild the entire engine compartment to make the change over.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Like stated above yet if you ever do notice low pressure you can add an accusump. Helluva lot cheaper than a 4-5 stage dry sump system.

I agree with all of you and use an accusump. But if I had loads of money I would have dry sump.

 

[marc]

My 2c is a dry sump is also necessary on a high winding motor as you typically would be using the oil as a coolant on the valvetrain. But you need the room for the big oil tank, 2.5 gal and that will be a trick. My ls7 is stock with a dry sump and my brain is rotting from trying to find the room for the damn tank.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

A well baffled wet sump will be fine, for extra security add Accusump, but not really necessary.

 

[Jeff Young]

Accusumps added plumbing complexity and additional failure points...ask me how I know.

But, I've "seen" it save me on the oil pressure gauge before....so it's definitely a cost/benefit equation with that thing. It's also good, low ballast that can be useful depending on your ruleset.

 

[Doc Kaler]

Marc,

Do you have the same space on the passenger side as the SLC?

 

[Dave Bilyk]

On my DAX, (the same make as Ian's), with 302, the sump is a standard 9" deep front sump, and is 1.5" lower than the chassis. So on my car, to give clearance, the sump needs to be 7.5" or less. I didn't find a sump with this depth, (maybe someone can point me to a supplier), so I was also considering dry sump. I see the Canton sump is 7 3/4 depth, I suppose ok, but could still be vulnerable. So that is why I was still considering dry sump. It is also an exciting engineering project, so still considering.

Dave

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Ground clearance was the sole reason I chose the dry sump over a wet sump. With an inverted 930, the OEM pan actually lifted the rear of the car 1/2" from the normal 5" ride height. No choice unless I completely reconfigured the drivetrain and/or put some pretty steep angles on the CV joints.

 

[EGLITOM]

On my DAX, (the same make as Ian's), with 302, the sump is a standard 9" deep front sump, and is 1.5" lower than the chassis. So on my car, to give clearance, the sump needs to be 7.5" or less. I didn't find a sump with this depth, (maybe someone can point me to a supplier), so I was also considering dry sump. I see the Canton sump is 7 3/4 depth, I suppose ok, but could still be vulnerable. So that is why I was still considering dry sump. It is also an exciting engineering project, so still considering.

Dave

Check out the Aviad Oil pans.

They have pans from 6,5 to 7,5" of height

Wet Sump Road Race Oil Pans (SBF 289/302 & 351W) at Test Page One

May be some can comment on their oil control quality

TOM

 

[Mike Huddart]

The only non "Sooper Dooper" pan ( at non sooper dooper price ) at 7" is by Champ Pan, they do a rear pan with all the baffles, built in windage tray and all the other good stuff and measures 7". About the same price as Canton or a bit cheaper, we have used them and are OK.
Mike