I had started on my Lotus & posted some of my progress a while back. I just re-activated it & it's here in the "wings & keels" "My Lotus project". Now that I've decided to go with the Buick V-8. There will be many changes I'm sure. Even toying with the idea of chucking the Lotus chassis & starting a tube one from scratch.:thumbsup:
M20 Dreaming
- Thread starter leonmac
- Start date
I was at Hampton Downs last weekend for a classic meeting, F5000s Muscle Cars, and other great stuff but the thing that realy got my attention was a M8F that was doing some very quick demo laps, verry impressive. Also the McLaren trust had their M8A on display a great weekend. I will have a look for your Lotus, It was a Europa wasn't it ?? I think I remember seeing it a long time back, they are cool little cars and can go very quick in the right hands. Cheers Leon
Well I'm home again and getting a bit of work done on the car. I'm starting the pin drive hubs and want to have them done and the brake rotors mounted before I move on to the next faze. So the plan is to get the complete front of the chassis finished with the suspension and brakes set up. I picked up some coilovers for the front and a set off period ZL1 alloy heads at a swap meet last time home so slowly getting bits together for the engine as well. Photos are coming, Cheers Leon
Well I'm home again and getting a bit of work done on the car. I'm starting the pin drive hubs and want to have them done and the brake rotors mounted before I move on to the next faze. So the plan is to get the complete front of the chassis finished with the suspension and brakes set up. I picked up some coilovers for the front and a set off period ZL1 alloy heads at a swap meet last time home so slowly getting bits together for the engine as well. Photos are coming, Cheers Leon
I have just read an in depth article in Racetech Magazine that goes into this subject in quite some detail. The solution and conclusion at the end of it was ,, if the nut is properly tightened and fits correctly it makes no difference what the thread direction is, however if the nut was to come loose having the LH tread on the RH side hub will help prevent the lose of the nut from the hub but I will not self tighten once it is loose. This was also mainly talking about F1 where they use slotted holes for fast location so if you keep clearance on the pins small the issue of the wheel twisting on the hub and coming loose is greatly reduced. Interesting . Cheers Leon
Leon
I run R/H on all wheels.
One thing I did find in the early days of tracking the car is the L/H front would back off after about 3 laps.
What I do is nip the L/F wheel drive to about 10-20 kph apply the brakes then give it a tighten and I never have a problem.
I think the drive pins just move in their locators just a fraction on the first brake application and it is enough to back of the spinner.
I have no other explanation.
Jim
I run R/H on all wheels.
One thing I did find in the early days of tracking the car is the L/H front would back off after about 3 laps.
What I do is nip the L/F wheel drive to about 10-20 kph apply the brakes then give it a tighten and I never have a problem.
I think the drive pins just move in their locators just a fraction on the first brake application and it is enough to back of the spinner.
I have no other explanation.
Jim
Hey Leon I was looking back through your log. Do you have the side radiators? I have a pair of brass ones that were for an unknown car. Maybe a formula car. I got them from John Collins years ago. I was thinking of using them on my Lotus. But decided to run a front radiator to help keep some weight on the front wheels. If interested I could shoot you some pictures & dimentions.
Hi Mike, no I have not gone down the road as yet. I did look at some alloy ones and getting custom made brass ones $$$$$ so have left that at this point. An idea I did come up with was to buy a full width conventional radiator and cut it through the middle and then cap the ends of the tanks, then set the outlets in the end as the M20 has them sticking out that way. They need to be 20" high x 12" wide or with in half an inch either way and the real ones appear to be 3 row. Interesting fact, McLaren tried alloy ones in the first car but found they didn't cool as well as the brass, their reasoning was that the alloy core couldn't be made as fine as the brass (in that era) and there for held the heat. I would be interested to see if those ones you have would fit the bill. Thanks. A question, how wide are you rims, they appear to be 8-9" if they were wider they would give the tyres a bit of stretch and look a bit more racey I'm just a fan of the old school look that the F1 and sports cars back in the late 60s had, cheers Leon
Hey Leon you said the radiators need to be 12" X 20"? Well if you can get them. Fiat 850 Spider radiators are 12" wide 19" high (to the top of the cap) & 3" deep all brass. I just measured one I had in the garage for my 850 Spider. Might be a way to go cheaper & easier than having something made custom. My middle Son is in the process of puting it together now for street use. We started it for my oldest son to vintage race (have a racing engine in the crate waiting to go in). Then he got married & had kids etc. So the racer thing kind of went by the way side.
Hi Mike, thanks for the info, I will ring around the Fiat wreckers and agents to see if something is available, I will do some research to find if other Fiats (more common) in NZ use the same or similar size radiators. I have been doing more work on the car but nothing really worth posting photo's just yet but hope to have some in a week or two.
Cheers Leon.
Cheers Leon.
Hey Guys, I have been working on the pin drive hubs. I have made the adaptor and lined it all up with the disc sandwiched between the stub axle and the pin drive adaptor. Now I have a question for you guys?? I have 1/2" studs that are held in the 10mm adaptor flange with a UNF thread that passes through the disc hat and stub axle flange, there are 4 pins @ 3 7/8" PCD as per original McLaren, the pins/studs do not have a shoulder and just run down to the end of the thread and then locked together with a nyolock nut on the back. Is this OK or do I run the risk of the thread being pulled through the adaptor flange. I will Loctite the studs for final assembly. Your thoughts appreciated.... I will get some photos up soon. Cheers Leon
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
I'm failing in being able to visualize the arrangement (an excuse to get you to post a photo or two) 
I'm failing in being able to visualize the arrangement (an excuse to get you to post a photo or two)
Some people cant do anything without instructions!
Leon, IF your plan is to do the pins as per the drawing with the thread simply 'bottoming ' out in the adaptor that would create a stress point in the pin at that point, might be better for pins to have a tapered shoulder with matching countersink on the adapter along with a snug parallel shank between shoulder & thread where it pass's thru disc & hub flange. Most pins these days have a hex on wheel end to allow you to hold them while torqueing up nut at inner end.
