M20 Dreaming

[Leon]

Well I have poured the first alloy for my Custom Transaxle and machined the case that it became. Its only a small part but it is better to start with the small parts and by the time you get to the big bits you should have things sorted. The part is the rear bearing retainer for the lay shaft and main shaft. There is a slight change in that this first T/A is only a 2 shaft and won't have the QC gears in the back this makes the box lighter and almost 3" shorter. From the Axle line to the rear will be 16". The area where the bearings sit is 15mm and the rest of the case is 10mm thick with the obvious ribs and bosses where the studs will attach it to the main case. Next part in line for casting is the diff section, once it is made then I can line up the other end of the gear stack and then I can make the main case. Anyway a couple of shots of the finished part. There is a casting that bolts to the back of this to cover and retain the bearings, I already have it I just need to drill and tape the holes, there is a provision to drive an oil pump off the back of the main shaft.
Cheers Leon.
Attached Thumbnails

 

[Leon]

I got a few pics from a mate the other month and I think they give a better overall idea of the chassis lay out and size of the car. I will put them up and next time I'm home I will mock up all the suspension and hopefully get the side radiator pontoons done. cheers Leon.

 

[Jim Cowden]

Very nice Leon

Keep your head down.

Jim

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Very exciting seeing your work and progress!

 

[Leon]

Thanks guys, I wish there was more to post but it is taking time and the Trans seems to be taking most of it. I really want to get the uprights and pin drives finished so I can put all the suspension together and get a rolling chassis. I have everything I need it just a case of head down Bum up and get it done. I'm changing to a 3x3 roster at work so hopefuly the updates will come faster, we'll see. Cheers Leon.

 

[John]

Hey mate which side of the ditch are you spending X Mass, your welcome to come up and join Fran and I if your stuck over here.
cheers John

 

[Leon]

Thanks John, I will be stuck on a Rig in Condamine for Christmas. Heading home on the 30th so will be in Brisbane that night flying to NZ in the morning 31st home for New Year with the family. I might pop up for a beer on the 30th if your free I will give you a ring. I tried to watch your Video but it wouldn't play for me (our internet here is terrible) so will have to wait until I get back to civilization to see it. How far away is the video of the track day?? I'LL call you on the 30th, Cheers Leon.

 

[Jim Cowden]

If you do a torsional rigidity test I would be interested on the figures Leon.
I am considering doing a P4 in an alloy tub.

Jim

 

[Leon]

It would be a wee ways off as I would have to have the engine all tied in to be a proper test as the engine adds to the stiffness at the back of the tub and that would need to include the bell housing as it has the Tri pods that tie the sides in as well. What sort of figures would you want? I'm sure I've read 9000 to 12000 pounds per inch of deflection are pretty good stiffness figures . Cheers Leon

 

[Leon]

Well I have been in the workshop this week and managed to rack up about 20hrs work on the car, mostly on the front suspension. I have mounted the steering rack and made 1 tie rod, machined the left side upright and cut in the mounting points for the tie rods. At this point I have 30 degree of turn in/out, 3 degree of caster and 1 degree of camber all of which is adjustable. is 30d of turn enough?? I'm pretty sure if you have the tail of a Can-Am car at 30+ degrees you are probably already in the deep brown smelly stuff. I think I have the tie rod and arms at reasonable angles to each other and have tried to have the pivots line up but I know you guys will make suggestions if its not right so please speak up as it easier to change thing now rather than later. I have put some photos in so please come back with the lines all over them if needed. The way its sitting in the photos is with 4" of ground clearance. I have also done a bit on the trans. but will go into detail with that on my "Custom Transaxle" thread. I will say that after much consideration and I have listened to you guys, I have gone with casting the gear case and diff section as 1 piece. This makes only 1 surface where the rear cover mates to the Case and this will lessen the possible oil leaks and make the whole unit more ridgid

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Looking good! Glad to see some more hours being put into this great project. It appears all the arm angles look reasonable. I've got the same 30 degree issue. It makes for some uncomfortably wide turns for street, but your usage shouldn't be a big concern.

 

[Jac Mac]

Only thing I can see wrong at a glance is that your progress might suffer spending time looking for the external jaws from the lathes 3 jaw chuck.

 

[Dave P]

Nice work! Enjoying your build thread glad you are making good progress Leon.

 

[Leon]

Well I finally bit the bullet and made the rear stay mount for the top front link. I know its not like the original but I just can't find anything about the front of the tub so I have gone with my own design with some ideas from the M8F, my rod end is vertical where as the M8 is horizontal. There is a bush to be brazed in for the bolt to locate in and then it will be riveted in place also made the tie rod for the left side. I think it will look OK and I have tried to keep with the period look by hand beating the edge the same as I have done for the rear suspension top brace. Let me know what you think Cheers Leon

 

[Mike S.]

Are you using nickle bronze welding rod on those? Or is it just the color? looks golden in the pix? Many (most) of the older space frames were nickle bronze braised for easier tube replacement. In case of an "incident" LOL I've been usinf steel welding on my Lotus project but thinking I may get some bronze rod.

 

[Leon]

Hi Mike, it is Nickle bronze. The thing with steel welding is the heat needed and you actually melt the metal together which isn't good for the steel where as brazing requires a lot less heat. I was given a demonstration a while back and the brazed joint was actually stronger than a welded joint. not mention so much easier to work with. Tig would be the best but I don't have a Tig machine. Cheers Leon

 

[John]

Hey Leone 6th feb Queensland race way if you can throw a sickie.
cars been cnr weighted, wheel aligned, new gear shift and ready to fly.
and I get another drive. yeh haa

cheers John

 

[Leon]

Hi John, Ive been shipped out to WA to fix an issue with equipment and it sounds like they want me to stay out here to make sure it goes for the whole project so don't know when if ever I'll be back to QLD. Its great to be needed, I just wish it was reflected in my pay packet. Let us all know how she goes mate, Cheers Leon.

 

[Mike S.]

Hi Leon great looking project. I didn't know about the nickle bronze being stronger than a regular weld. But I did know it was stronger than the parent metal of the pieces. I have a pace maker & they won't let me arc anymore. So I'm stuck with gas welding/brazing on my Lotus build.

 

[Leon]

Hi Mike, you will have to put your Lotus build on the forum, its great to see a wide variety of projects and something new is always welcome