M20 Dreaming

[Leon]

I will have a look at the Hoosiers, Thanks Rob. I measured the tyre unmounted and it was 18'' bead to bead and yes it is stretched but it doesn't look wrong (Drifter Tyre Wrong) if you know what I mean!! I think the 16.5" will be much better, just for show the M/T with the tread that looks like an old school "Wet" tyre in 28/18.5/15 would look good. My mate has a set of 33/22/15 M/Ts on his 32 Roadster, Oh Oh Oh, now thats a PHAT tyre.

Cheers Leon

 

[Rod Brace]

How wide are your front wheels and tires? Also what is the stopping point steering stops, tub,sway bar?

 

[Leon]

Hi Rod, Fronts are 11" wide with 23/10.5/15 Avons, The steering stops are at the bottom arm spherical joint and I have not looked for a sway bar yet but it will mount in the same way as the original and connect to the back of the bottom shock mount bolt. i'll put some photos of the front wheels mounted on the tub tomorrow.

Cheers Leon

 

[Leon]

Hey Rob, I spoke to the Hoosier agent here in NZ and he got a reply back from Hoosier in the US saying they don't supply tyres to suit the Can-Am cars anymore, can you check for me with the 917/30 guy to what it is they use. They do the size 27/17/15 for asphalt sprint cars but the guy here says he wouldn't want to sell me something that wasn't right.

Cheers Leon

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Perhaps not as wide as you're looking for, but the Vintage G19 Can Am (#221730) series may work?

Goodyear Race Tires || Sports Car

 

[Leon]

Hi Terry, I have looked at the Goodyears and the Avons are a better size and a better price here in NZ because the F5000 guys keep up the demand, having said that, Tony Cardwell (NZ Hoosier agent) told me Kenny Smith will be testing "Hoosiers" for the F5000s this year . I haven't written the Hoosiers that Rod talked about off yet and the Avons will also do the job so I'm not too concerned.

Cheers Leon

 

[Rod Brace]

Leon, I'm going to have to take my uprights apart to put in my titanium wheel lugs do you have a torque speck you tightened them to? P.s. I got my beams in the new garage to start on the build table. Then I'm building a I beam frame over the garage door and the one at the front of the car and a I beam running between in the middle so I can put a trolley on it and lift the trans and engine in myself and move the car on the table. Rod

 

[Leon]

Hi Rod, don't take the axle out of the bearing. Take the curclip out of the front of the bearing, undo the nut on the drive flange and take the drive flange off (I made as special puller to do this) simple piece of square bar threaded hole in the middle, two holes to attach to the drive flange bolts and you have a flange puller. Then press the bearing out as one, you may want to warm the alloy. If you try to push the axle out you will pop the front seal and bearing cone. When you do it back up you just do it tight, the preload on the bearing is factory set.

I have some photos of the front wheels so I have attached them.

Cheers Leon.

 

[Rod Brace]

Thank you. I also was wondering how you would mount the front calipers as there isn't mounting tabs (for brackets) like the rears?

 

[Leon]

That flat area on the side is there so you can mount a bracket that can either be a Radial mount or a Lug mount, Not knowing what the Brake set up is going to be makes it hard to have the right set up on the Housing. I now don't put lugs on the rears but leave a square so it can be drilled and tapped for a bracket. The main issue is how deep the rotor sits back as to where the lugs need to be if you have them too far Forward/Back then you have to have long bolts with spacers which is not ideal. If you send me a photo of your rotor and caliper in position I'll draw up a bracket. I personally would go for Radial mount calipers. I'm here to help with what ever I can.

 

[Rod Brace]

Thank you my friend I will try to get it mocked up.

 

[Leon]

Hey guys, Some more progress has been made, this week all the plumbing has been done some headers have been purchased but will need some mods the front wing was coloured and graffic's added. I now have the paint and the buck is ready for F/glass so hoping to do that next week, Tyres were all fitted to the wheels and its really looking like a car now.
I have attached some photos hope you guys like it.

Cheers Leon

 

[Howard Jones]

This is something that I thought I would never see. The idea that people can build a homebuilt CANAM car is mind blowing. Then you do my favorite one. Really a exceptional piece of art work. Thank you.

 

[Mesa]

Seriously bad ass.

 

[Andrew Robertson]

Looking awesome Leon! Superb.

Cheers, Andrew

 

[Russell]

Leon, now that is looking good, soon we will have sound!
Great effort.

 

[Rod Brace]

Truly you are a Craftsman Leon!
Your clear hose from your filter to your drysump tank is that high temp? Rod

 

Seriously impressive.

 

[Udo 101]

Looking fantastic Leon, can't wait to see it in the flesh.
Regards, Udo.

 

[Leon]

Hi Rod, yes the clear tube is hi temp. I know I'm going to get slammed for the headers as the original one go under and exit under the rear panel. Mine go up and will exit through the opening in the rear panel. the reason I have gone this way is the ease of installation as it is very busy down low with the tri-pods and the oil pump etc,I may turn them into a 180 system. Continue to work on the body as it is the main priority at this point, will have photos of the body sitting on the car soon (I hope)

Cheers Leon