Mazda 20 B engine in SL-C

Other than keeping the oil changed, running premix, not over heating it, there is nothing else to do. There is no adjustments to be made on the engine, fuel management is the most important thing. Dont run lean, its more of a 2 stroke engine, dont overheat and it will last a long time, and of course the harder you drive something, the quicker it will wear out.

They still make parts everyday for them but at 650 hp, im not pushing it to its limit, 15 psi of boost is manageable. I have street porting on it, small primary injectors, then 3 times that size for the secondarys when boost kicks in. Could go to 10000 rpms, but I choose 8000, im breaking it in, the rev limiter is set at 6500 and 8 psi of boost, air fuel is 9-11, very rich, so there is a lot more there to dial in when I get the motor broken in, have ran 20 gallons of gas thru it just running at the shop, so now on the road, it was loaded up big time, oil filling the waste gate and running out of it, but geting it on the road will change all that.
 
How fast are other SLC's with different motors?

0-60 or 0-100, I am just wondering, I am getting mine closer on the fuel injecting mapping, and 0-100 time is getting around 8 seconds, 1st gear is ok to get rolling in, but cant really jump on it with out wheel spin and just for a instant since it goes on the rev limiter.

I really can get more out of it, but I'm more into the 0-60 time I don't need a big ticket and its very easy to get to 100.
 
Wow, that's real nice.

Seems like one of the positives of an SL-C is that you can put any powerplant you want in it without anyone saying 'you're doing it wrong'. :)
 
There is sum room in there, tho the rotary filled it up pretty good, but I am also not running a dry sump, which I think all the LS motors have to, and dont know about any others. But over the weekend I did take the water pump off the motor and put it back on without to much trouble, just some back pain from bending over the car, all this to find out I had air in the system since I was just running water in the motor instead of coolant.
 

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Keith

Moderator
What a result :thumbsup:

As a direct consequence of your experiences, I wouldn't mind betting that other SLC owners may now consider the 3 rotor as a viable option. I certainly would if I were in the market but I fear we do not have the technical support in the UK that you clearly enjoy, but I also understand that Australia is a very good source too.

Would you care to indicate (in round figures of course) what your total budget for the drive train was?
 
How fast are other SLC's with different motors?

0-60 or 0-100, I am just wondering, I am getting mine closer on the fuel injecting mapping, and 0-100 time is getting around 8 seconds, 1st gear is ok to get rolling in, but cant really jump on it with out wheel spin and just for a instant since it goes on the rev limiter.

I really can get more out of it, but I'm more into the 0-60 time I don't need a big ticket and its very easy to get to 100.
Correct me if I am wrong, looking at your pictures you might be having a traction problem because it looks like your rear springs could be coil binding under acceleration? Maybe you will have to step up to a little stiffer spring set up. I have big torque in my car and it hooks up really well with big cube LS motor. I also noticed on mine it works better after the tires have scuffed in more, same tires you have.
 
I think with the turbo and piping etc, around 300 pounds, shipping weight of the motor only was 260.

I ordered 750 springs, ill have them tomorrow, already have the old ones off so im not tempted to drive it tonight.

Thank Fran for the heads up on that, never even thought of it.
 

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Ok, so a 3 rotor motor is about 75lbs lighter than an LS motor.

I'm running a LS3 (360lbs) with a G50-20 6 speed (150lbs). My rear coil-overs are adjusted nearly to the limit and the springs are compressed like yours, so I'm very interested to hear how the 750lb upgrade works for you.

I think with the turbo and piping etc, around 300 pounds, shipping weight of the motor only was 260.

I ordered 750 springs, ill have them tomorrow, already have the old ones off so im not tempted to drive it tonight.

Thank Fran for the heads up on that, never even thought of it.
 
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Here are the pictures of the new springs, 750 lb verses 650 lb which come with the car. Thanks Fran for noticing what was wrong before I hurt something.

Before and after pics. 5" ride height in back.
 

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I see that the coil-overs are still adjust nearly to their limit. Are the 750lb springs shorter?

How is the ride with the stiffer 750lb springs?

Here are the pictures of the new springs, 750 lb verses 650 lb which come with the car. Thanks Fran for noticing what was wrong before I hurt something.

Before and after pics. 5" ride height in back.
 
I havent drove it yet, but its not coil bound at least. Yes 750 lb springs, 5 inchs of clearance.. Ill know this weekend, tonight grandson graduates high school, tomorrow baseball game and been married 36 LOOOOOOONG years, what a better way to celabrate at a ball game.
 
Here are some pictures that are better then in the past I hope.
 

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Switched from Microtech to a Haltech ECU, its like putting another rotor on the motor. I always said the motor didn't sound right from day one, tho it was bad ass, but just didn't have the snap off idle.

I lost a injector driver on the Microtech, so of course nobody has any in stock in the US, Microtech said if I wanted one RIGHT NOW there exact words go buy a American made one, so called Haltech, even tho they are made in Australia, they have a warehouse in Kentucky, and more then one in stock, I checked, what a nice unit, they even have a dash you can plug into it, but anyway, that's this winter ill switch over and people you can talk to, everytime I called, which were a few, the person answering the phone, was a tech and answered any question I had, even did a VNC to my computer to show me how to get to everything, BUT what a difference, not even dialed in, I already snapped off the 6 bolts on one axle to the spindle, bad bolts, but it never did that before in the almost 400 miles I have on it. Cant wait to dial it in but the motor sounds like a F1 engine now. Better software, more control over everything easier to dial in.
 
Switched from Microtech to a Haltech ECU, its like putting another rotor on the motor. I always said the motor didn't sound right from day one, tho it was bad ass, but just didn't have the snap off idle.

I lost a injector driver on the Microtech, so of course nobody has any in stock in the US, Microtech said if I wanted one RIGHT NOW there exact words go buy a American made one, so called Haltech, even tho they are made in Australia, they have a warehouse in Kentucky, and more then one in stock, I checked, what a nice unit, they even have a dash you can plug into it, but anyway, that's this winter ill switch over and people you can talk to, everytime I called, which were a few, the person answering the phone, was a tech and answered any question I had, even did a VNC to my computer to show me how to get to everything, BUT what a difference, not even dialed in, I already snapped off the 6 bolts on one axle to the spindle, bad bolts, but it never did that before in the almost 400 miles I have on it. Cant wait to dial it in but the motor sounds like a F1 engine now. Better software, more control over everything easier to dial in.
Awesome! Whenever you get a chance/things dialed in, I'd love another video/sound clip.
 
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