Mazda 20 B engine in SL-C

If I can sell it, I will, I want to build a house next to my shop instead of taking care of 2 places so that's why I put it on EBAY. If not, I am happy with the car, Ill take the body off this winter and change some things, an finish the interior and finish it.

And if I sell it, after my house is built, ill get another one, but Ill put a 4 rotor in there this time.

I have more fun building, figuring out how to make everything fit, designing and making parts, then anything else and it has to be different, There is nothing like the sound of a V 8, the LS motors, but I like ODD, would love to do a V12, V10, or something like that in one, but a 4 Rotor Mazda sounds like the old F1 cars did before they changed to the V6's, that would be my next one if it do it.
 
I would think that to get anywhere near a top price for your car, you obviously need a very current, well made video showing off the car going thru its proper paces and exhibiting that magical rotary engine sound. All in HD splendor.
 
I have had a few inquires on ebay, sent some video, the sound dont do it justice, but a guy will be here next week to look at it, from out west so we will see. I dont really care one way or another, if I sell it, ill be building another one next year, mendeola is coming out with a new sequential box that no matter what gear you are in, you can go into neutral and start again from 1st. Thats why i didnt go with paddle shifting on this one, didnt want to have to slam on the brakes in 4 th gear then having to move the car slippign the clutch to get it into first in traffic, but when I build the next one ill use that tranny with paddle shifting and manual shfiter, still like shifting by a lever.
 

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Here are some pictures I took and this is how im driving it right now. Will finish it up this winter with interior, still sorting out some mapping problems but it is fun to drive, not quite inside, nor do I plan to put windows in there either.
 

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Thanks, its fun to drive, but dont be in a hurry if you stop somewhere, it always brings people to ask What kind of car is that? I think Fran should give away tee shirts when buying one saying "its a SLC" and "Made in America" on the back
 
Me too, wish they could do back also≤
my logo says made in america, would like to seen that on the back.
 

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Gary,

You can easily set up an account as I have done is the past and sell all sorts of items! I may reinstate my charter business again for my boat ADRENALINE in cabo and I already have many items on file at Cafepress.com.

Be creative, I'd like to see some of your ideas!
 
. . . I was just running water in the motor instead of coolant.
Wow, I just read this post, that you are running only water in your cooling system, without any coolant additive.

Does not the place in the engine where the ignition take place get especially hot, and require more cooling than the rest of the rotor housings?

Thanks!

Les
 
I have put some water wetter in there, but they ask if you are tunning anti freeze if you take it to a track, I guess thats a no no, but I dont think im going to take it to a track this year. Id rather just drive it, its fun, I wouldnt want to fling it off into a tire wall.

My engine runs around 150-160, I have temp gauges on the motor and on the radiator so I can see what the motor is running at and what is going into the radiator, when the thermostat opens up, you can see the water temp on the radiator go up to around 150, dont matter if its idling, running hard, on the dyno, it just stays at around 150-160. I did have a problem with air in the system, so thats why I went to water wetter, water around the exhaust port would boil after shutting off, so it would give me air, so put 2 pint bottles of water wetter in, stopped that.

I dont use Frans radiator, I use a Howe round de round one, 180.00 bucks from Summit, and 2 - 3000 cfm fans and its mounted on the angle the other way
 

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I've seen conflicting comments about water wetter type additives. Some manufacturers claim it reduces coolant temps 8-30 degrees, while some users see no change in temps and call it "snake oil".

If your motor is running well within its operating range, you probably won't see a change on your temp meter because the thermostat will open/close to keep a constant optimal temp. If your cooling system is having a hard time keeping up, then you may see a temp drop from water wetter.

My experience is that water wetter does work, but only expect to drop temps about 5 degrees. However, sometimes 5 degrees is all you need!
 
I am like Gary, if my car(GT40) is moving even slowly in stop and go traffic, my temps rum 150-160 with only the electric water pump. They might creep as high as 170. If I am in red light traffic I will switch on the fans and it never reaches 170. Noticed it yesterday in 90+ degree weather and today in 87 degree temps(overcast). I have an A/C compressor but it isn't connected to anything. It gets warm of course but I don't have sweat running off me. I guess being under 160 lbs. helps.

Bill
 
. . . My engine runs around 150-160, I have temp gauges on the motor and on the radiator so I can see what the motor is running at and what is going into the radiator, when the thermostat opens up, you can see the water temp on the radiator go up to around 150, dont matter if its idling, running hard, on the dyno, it just stays at around 150-160. I did have a problem with air in the system, so thats why I went to water wetter, water around the exhaust port would boil after shutting off, so it would give me air, so put 2 pint bottles of water wetter in, stopped that.

I dont use Frans radiator, I use a Howe round de round one, 180.00 bucks from Summit, and 2 - 3000 cfm fans and its mounted on the angle the other way

Wow, getting the inside scoop on how to keep a Wankel rotary engine cool. :thumbsup:

I guess I was worried about steam forming, not around the exhaust port (I never thought of that), but around the part of the trochoid (I think that is what the rotor rotates inside) where the combustion always takes place. With such a small film of water running past so many square inches of very hot aluminium (FRAN! Take note of the correct spelling! :) ) I feared that just plain water would turn into steam in that area.

Could you point me to some good historical and technical references for cooling the Wankel engine, please? I don't want to be ignorant any more! :)

Thanks,

Les
 
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