McLaren M1 replica

Hi All, bit of an update - chassis done and back from the powder coater, hardware now going in. Halfshafts and rear brakes to go on, then I'll move to the front and fit steering and front suspension. Have a good week.

Cheers, Andrew


Nice work. I think Sean Burgess still has the molds from the 60's for the M1B/C still for sale. It might be a thought in the future. I could help get them to you if ever decided to get them. I haven't seen what shape they are in though.

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
GT40s Supporter
Inspiring! Can you provide more detail on the muffler outlets? Will there be any plumbing, or does it simply exit downward? Great work!

Hi Andrew, Is this just the first of this build log or is there something I have missed else where on the site? You seem to be a fare way along with your build and it looks VERY impressive. How much time does this represent?? I'm starting to feel like a bit of a slacker as Ive been going at it for over a year and have very little to show for it. You are doing a fantastic job and it looks way more like the real thing than a 4 cylinder "FORD'' powered M6GT. Did you cast the rear uprights yourself or are they a purchased item from another builder. Again, Great work and love to see some more detail about your build.

Cheers Leonmac
Hi Leon,

I'm not one of those intrepid souls like yourself doing a scratch-built car - very much admire what you guys can do.

The chassis was built up to about 85% complete by Autotune in the UK, and they also supplied the suspension, rear uprights, and body panels taken off an original M1C. I got those bits out here in July last year. I've fabricated engine and transaxle mounts, back roll bar stays, rear chassis section, chopped a few things out and added a few things in etc, to get the engine and box right where I want them.

I've got most of the bits together now and most recently built the headers and exhaust system. The rear uprights are Seirra Cosworth peices. I'm yet to see how reliable or durable they are in service with a wide negative offset wheel.

I haven't been very good at logging progress but I'll be popping a bit of update stuff on this thread from time to time.

Cheers, Andrew
The rear uprights are Seirra Cosworth peices. I'm yet to see how reliable or durable they are in service with a wide negative offset wheel.
Leon, got this clarification/correction on the rear uprights from Richard at Autotune yesterday:

"I saw you post on GT40's last night, the rear uprights on your car were
originally designed here in the UK by Manchester University (I think, I will
have to check) the only Sierra Cosworth part is the hub through the centre, the Ford Sierra 4X4 hub can also be used. Quite a few of the rear engined Kit companies now use that upright or variations on the theme. We found it stood up well to race use with slick tyres on our M1 replica,
despite the bearings being quite close together."

Cheers, Andrew
Hi All,

I have an empty side pod next to me on the driver's side of the car. The 60 litre fuel cell is in the left hand side - I'm not planning anything that would use more fuel than that. My thinking has turned to how to use the driver's side pod for energy absorbtion in a side shunt, and was wondering about that expanding foam used in the building industry, but I'm not sure at all if its density and other properties are suitable. I'm also not sure if it exerts enough pressure to "over-inflate" the side pod and cause fitment problems as it cures. Any thoughts and experiences?

Cheers, Andrew Robertson

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
GT40s Supporter
They will expand (even the "minimally expanding" versions), and I've seen them distort the containers surrounding the foam. I've used it to fill in quarter panels and fenders for the same purpose, but never had to "use it". I does get pretty stiff though.
My thinking has turned to how to use the driver's side pod for energy absorbtion in a side shunt
To my mind the best way to do that would be to fold up a suitable "U" shaped long box in say 1.2 or 1.6mm alloy, that fits inside the pod and is attached to the chassis which makes the 4th side of the box.

Fill the U shaped box with foam. Once the foam is set dress it flat with the top of the 'U" and then fit to the chassis.

Omce you have made the box you may decide you don't need the foam. Remember the foam will weight something like 35 to 40 kg per meter cube.


Fred W B
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We purchased the molds referenced earlier in this thread and they have been completely and extensively refurbished and repaired. We can now offer the most correct and exact M1B and M1C body work available, with some options like fender flares, and our body work includes all original inner panels such as the duct work for the radiator and front brake cooling and the light buckets.

We can also provise all the replacement parts for the chassis, including correct hammer formed bulkheads. For restoration of original cars or construction of a correct SVRA eligible vintage racer we're your source. Superb quality, reasonable price for the quality and accuracy.

We hope to be at the SVRA championship at COTA October 25-27 with at least a chassis and bodywork and possibly one of the two cars already reatored with our chassis and body parts. Or maybe both.

By the way, I wish someone offerd a GT40 raodster, but I don't know of any.

David Merritt 713-416-7683 [email protected]
Hi All,

I've been particularly slack at updating on progress of the M1 replica build I have been chipping away at off and on since 2008. Anyway, it's finished, and I had my first shakedown test run at Manfeild a fortnight ago. Went pretty well - mainly testing the engine/clutch/box etc - it's very torquey and flexible, and feels pretty brisk. Got a list of bugs to iron out and a fair bit of chassis set-up to do, but it feels like it has potential.

Cheers, Andrew Robertson
Wellington, New Zealand