McLaren M20#73

Looking awesome Andy!

What ECU did you end up going with? If you are not going DBW throttle the Holley HP ECU would be worth a look, and they do complete ECU+harness kits for LSX. I'm putting one on an LS3 and the software is fairly intuitive with great learning and closed loop control functions. Plus there is heaps of internet forum support for all kinds of race applications.

Cheers, Andrew
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I've got it as well, and pretty satisfied with it. What I found very helpful was the nearly unlimited flexibility in inputs (e.g. 1X cam, with 58x crank, due to the new cam) to get what you need. I would say "fairly" intuitive though is optimistic, but I'm of the generation that uses its grandchildren to accomplish any electronic mastery.
 
Andrew/Terry, still up in the air between the Fuel Tech and the Holley. Once you add all the harnesses, sensors, displays, injector drivers, coils, gear controllers, Shift knob/strain sensor, traction control, they all end up being some eye watering amount. Still waiting on a few replies then will decide.
 
We’ve found the MSPRO ECUs are the best value. We have them on a few cars, including my SLC that ha a Turbo VVTi Toyota v8.

No DBW support, but does everything else we can dream up.
 
Hi Frank, thanks for putting me onto the MS3PRO site. I’ve been doing a bit of reading and have decided to go with the MS3PRO Ultimate ECU, Mega Squirt, Dash 2 Pro etc. With the Black Friday Deals 10% off I’ve now got NZ5K more in my car fund compared to the Holley or FuelTech setups.

Ok.. I need some advice on the LS3 engine sensors.. I’m running a Non VVT Comp cam, with Cloyes timing set and 58x Crank Trigger wheel. For a race car running a standalone ECU, do I need to run a Cam sensor or does the 58x Crank Trigger sensor provide enough position data.
Also should I install the 2 knock sensors.

The front of the car is now all riveted and bolted up. More work to do on the dash but is close.
Still waiting for the new Albins Bellhousing, I’m hoping before Christmas. The Tilton 110T flywheel and Super Starter have turned up also.
 

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Ok.. I need some advice on the LS3 engine sensors.. I’m running a Non VVT Comp cam, with Cloyes timing set and 58x Crank Trigger wheel. For a race car running a standalone ECU, do I need to run a Cam sensor or does the 58x Crank Trigger sensor provide enough position data.
Also should I install the 2 knock sensors.
I think the factory sensors will work fine. You might as well retain the knock sensors but you will need to tune frequency, sensitivity and the amount of retard they command based on the amount of mechanical noise (valve-train etc) your race engine produces in operation. They are potentially a good tuning tool in conjunction with datalogging when set-up properly, especially if you plan to run on 98 pump gas.

Cheers, Andrew
 
MS3Pro (ECU ignition and injection system) box of bits turned up. There’s a lot to digest but it will be few months before work starts on that.
Albins got the new Bellhousing completed and arrived this week. Designed in extra mounting blocks for the rear suspension towers top and bottom. Tilton 52 series driveline hardware. 110T flywheel and 3 plate clutch Installed. Rated for 1020 lbs/ft
934 CV and high speed boots all seem to fit ok with starter motor as designed.
The front suspension is all done, Calipers mounted, Peddles installed.
The front dash is all set to be bonded and riveted in place. Painted the dash with black Hammerite, Gunmetal finish, waiting for that to harden..
Work will start on the radiator pods soon. Enjoying summer...Andrew.
 

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And to my earlier question about do I need a cam sensor as well as a 58x crank trigger wheel sensor. On a LS, 2 timing Sensors are needed as the cam sensor detects when its the compression or exhaust stroke. Yes, I’ve been reading.. Matt Cramer and Jerry Hoffman Fuel injerction book + DIYAutoTune site. The MSextra site is also full of useful info.
 
Fantastic result after so few months build ( started sept 2018 ?)
Congratulations !!!
From tne very neat riveting work I can watch seems you found the right people to hold the "opposite side tooling" ;)
Just one question earlier in your thread you where posting Albins could provide sides cover to match LG500/600 ?
Do you have any view of those bespoke items ? are they made on order ? some idea of cost ? Thanks
will look forward to wtach more progress these following monthes !!!!
Bravo !!!
 
Thanks Michel,
90% of the rivet work was done by myself holding the bucking bar. My daughter helped out when 2 were required. I've found the rivet heads keep umarked if the blue plastic protector film is placed over the rivet head before being driven in.
As for the Albins side plates being modified to add suspension lugs like the lg500/600 transaxle, I never investigated that further. I wish I did as it would have made the design easier. Albins can easily alter the side plate design to your requirements. You'll need to contact them for a pice. Regards Andrew
 
Ok thanks !!
What I did when riveting so many of those solid rivets ( and on the Lola 2lires tubs they where blu anodised ) is to protect the end the the riveting bar with small sphere with tape and checking all 50 rivets that the tape was sill ok ( then ssticking new tape as soon as it was damaged)
Good help with daughter !!!! makes family project ;)
I remember too that doing this job (am talking on the 80's !!!) there was only one of my crew on the team which I trusted doing the work , all others where not good partners !!! ( too low to puch or puching the wrong end rivet:mad:)
Keep your so good work !!! and keep posting news....:D
 
...a little milestone. I would now class the front of the chassis done, bar the front anti rollbar. Got some feelers out now for some radiators, so should have some more replies by the end of the week. Will need to order some more sheet aluminium to complete Radiator side pods, wings and backrest. Down to 1 sheet.
 

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Eddy McClements

Supporter
What alloy are you using, Andy?
I will be using 5052 H34 sheet aluminium as it is medium/high strength and folds nice tight bends without cracking and comes in thicknesses I need 1.2, 1.6, 2, 2.5 & 3mm. Solid Rivets are the hard 2117 3/16”, Sikaflex 552 High Strength Structural adhesive will be used.
The rear bulkhead and front suspension mount points will be constructed with 4130 .100” alloy steel normalised. Front Arms also will be 4130 tubing, Rear links 7075 tube, threaded for rod ends.
;)
 
...a little milestone. I would now class the front of the chassis done..
Hi Andy, looks superb!

A very small thought - it looks like the master cylinders are mounted on a single sheet at the footwell bulkhead. I assume you've given the brake pedal a good serve to check for any deflection of the masters at the mounting point. In my experience that has a significant bearing on pedal feel.

Cheers, Andrew
 
Hi Andrew, I did consider that, #65 first pic shows I've doubled up on the front wall and floor with extra 2mm sheet, so its 4mm and feels solid as.. nothing worst than a spongy brake pedal.
 
Started mocking up the rear suspension bars with 25mm conduit. Decided to go with 1/2” x 3/4” rod ends with 7075 tube. It’s a fair bit stronger than the 1/2” x 5/8” that was planned.
Radiators are 2 pass, 76mm Aluminium Adrad cores(Aussie). They have been moved 75mm rearward to increase the cooling area by nearly 30%. 2 - 550w x 495h x 76mm, should be plenty of colling with 16” fans.
Cardboard radiator side pods have been mocked up to see if it looks like it might work, and to confirm where the folds, bracing and rivets will go.
Now to make them.... With family, life, other hobbies and work , its been an enjoyably tough summer allocating time to the M20.
Andrew
 

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