McLaren M20#73

#23
Thanks Guys, I've been looking forward to this build for a while now and itching to do a scratch built race car. Off topic....a couple of years back, I built a 7.5m Hardtop Alu Boat and Trailer powered by a Yanmar 6BY260Z 3Lt Diesel Turbo, ZT370 stern drive. It took 2.5 years to complete project and is as big and heavy as the wee Hilux can pull. Been enjoying the great fishing and diving NZ offers and is superb for seeing parts of the country/ocean that most don't get to see or appreciate. The last pic was a 50 mile trip home from Durville Island to Mana (hm port). Blew up to 45-50 knots and 4m seas. That shot was about half way hm and it got worst. Wouldn't want to be out in a much larger sea state than that. Boat went well though.
 

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#24
Andy, you must be in the Wellington area, I am in Auckland and we share similar backgrounds, built a 28` yacht, 35` launch and now cars. Your workmanship in the chassis shows some serious skills. Great effort so will be watching with interest.
Cheers
Russell
 
#25
Your Tub is looking fantastic and the boat is testament to your fabrication skills. The body is almost done, the rear clip is in my workshop and looks pretty darn good. the doors are done and the front clip will be out of the mold this week. Cheers Leon
 
#26
Hi Russell, I am in Wellington. Only dilemma now is do you go fishing or work on the car this Summer...

Thanks Leon, think I'll be M20 dreaming this week for sure...looking forward to the trip up the Naki in the near future.

Just completed riveting the seat and belt mounts today..my daughters getting quite good assisting when 2 persons required. Her exams are all done so I have a helper now.
Also organising a trip the Melbourne/Ballarat to collect the transaxle early Jan.. a good opportunity for wife to shop and catch up with family . now beer time.
 
#27
Andy, consider your self lucky.....that you are not road registering it. So many inspectors being called out for crap inspections passing what appears to be poor construction skills. Some of the things being asked for are simply but covers, and it costs plenty for the car constructor. I have managed to achieve all so far, and await the next visit with bruised pockets.
 
#28
After many hours studying the Motor Sport NZ Regulations the only parts need certification will be the final weld on the fuel tank, the front A-Arms and the roll bar. I’ll construct the parts and tack together, but it’s easier to get an approved race fab shop to do the final weld and sign off the Log Book than to get crack inspections and certification done that way.
 
#29
Pics of the seat/spine completed and front foot well that was folded and fitted today. (That wont be riveted in for awhile)
Onto the front suspension now.. WIll need to order a steering rack, probably go with a Titan.
Looking forward to picking up the body and the transaxle isn’t to far away...
 

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#30
....didn't get much done in January. House painting, a lot of yard work, plus enjoying summer and out on the boat sucked up the month quickly. The transalxe meant to have been completed before christmas but delays from suppliers, holidays etc plus a factory move has meant Albins have just completed the build and its on its way:p the pic was obviously during the build. Picked up the clip and is now hanging in the garage. Just completed the front suspension brackets so can move onto the a-arms and then steering rack. Nearly have all the big ticket items.
 

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#32
I made a start on the A-Arms, but my pipe bender put to much of a crush on the pipe so I'm getting the 4 small bends Mandrel bent.
Should have them back in a few days.
While I was waiting for the pipe bends I made a start on the Fuel tanks. They're all cut and folded. Also bought some 5mm PE and 25mm EVA foam to surround the tank and under it. Still need to design the internal baffling and fuel pickup.
Then it was a short trip down to the Mainfreight depot and pickup the Transaxle and shifter.
Albins ST6-M. Sequential 6 speed. Internal oil pump and filter. LS bell housing. 934 drive flange. 68kgs dry. I'm liking it.
Motor next.
 

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Howard Jones

Member
GT40s Supporter
#33
I used three of these in my tank. I made my own little box. I made it hold about a 1/2 gal. I located the pickup inside of the little box and the level sender outside the box. That way the gauge shows empty and I have a 1/2 gal left in the little box. If I was to do it again I would have made it a full gal. The box is centered at the back of the tank along the rear wall on the bottom of the tank.

Here's a picture of the assembly Fuelsafe sells and the check valves it uses.

https://fuelsafe.com/st100/

https://fuelsafe.com/cv100
 
#35
Hi Howard, I saw those fuel collector boxes and CV100 valves. Similiar thinking to the Moroso baffled trap door oil sump setup. Will make something like you have in alu with a box and trap doors. Have you had any problems losing fuel pressure?

Andrew, I see a Dart 427 LS SHP in my near future. Going with the iron block for strength over alu block weight saving.
 

Howard Jones

Member
GT40s Supporter
#36
No. But I am running a Holley not FI. I seam to be able to run the car down to 1-2 gals left in the tank without any starvation problems. Still learning the fuel gauge. You have got me thinking about a low pressure warning light for fuel pump output. Hummmmmm Yea outa do that.

By the way. That is one of my favorite cars of all time. GT40, Lotus 49, and M20. The order changes when I see one or the other. Great build! Really outstanding work.
 
#37
Andy
Many thanks for your time the other day, have to admit that you have some serious skills there so really looking forward to see your build progress. As for those stoppers! and that trans axel....I am very envious.
Keep up the good work.
Russell Keach
 

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#38
Progress on the front A-Arms. Nearly got both done. Waiting on a few parts, then I can work out the geometry and order the steering rack.

Russel, nice to meet up, I’ve enjoyed following your many builds over the years.
 

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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
GT40s Supporter
#39
I have yet to be able to weld a tube onto the bearing retainer without the retainer shrinking enough to were it's a fight to get the bearing back into the retainer.
 

Randy V

Member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
#40
I have yet to be able to weld a tube onto the bearing retainer without the retainer shrinking enough to were it's a fight to get the bearing back into the retainer.
You may have some success with using a brake wheel cylinder hone and light oil to hone that retainer back to size. I’ve used that method successfully in the past..
 
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