SLC 001 Build
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Fran Hall RCR
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I have a batch of them on order from Hella.....98 day lead time....seriously.!!!
I have the 90mm units on the shelf at all times but the 60mm are special order.
I have the 90mm units on the shelf at all times but the 60mm are special order.
Fender Liners - I managed to get the upper part of the rear liner attached, the gap will be filled with bulb seal attached to the lip seen in previous posts. I do not yet have the hinge made for the rear shell so I don't get to show the relationship with it open.
On the front - The front headlight inner covers needed to serve three purposes. 1) Keep the road grime and water off the back of the lights. 2) Allow access to the lights for adjustment 3) Direct air through the condensers while sealing off any other path for the air to escape. Need to make a block off for the end of the condenser and a screen to protect the condenser from the tire side.
It's kind of hard to see what they look like without an opaque color on them, in the end these parts will get a texture coat to help reduce gravel damage.
On the front - The front headlight inner covers needed to serve three purposes. 1) Keep the road grime and water off the back of the lights. 2) Allow access to the lights for adjustment 3) Direct air through the condensers while sealing off any other path for the air to escape. Need to make a block off for the end of the condenser and a screen to protect the condenser from the tire side.
It's kind of hard to see what they look like without an opaque color on them, in the end these parts will get a texture coat to help reduce gravel damage.
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Masterful work, Rob!
The cardboard methodology only works for hidden components, the surfaces will be rough and not all that pretty on the headlight liners. In this application it works fine since most of the component will be hidden from the casual viewer. Also the part will get a texture coat and that will enhance the look to more than acceptable standards.
I use a cheap Lowes 3M brand masking tape for this kind of work. This particular tape releases from fiberglass well, the cardboard is a total-loss component as you will need to peal it off the back. Or if you wish you could wax it, I myself do not think it worth the time. After removal I just give the backside a quick buzz with a sander. Like I said this method is not for top end exposed parts.
I use a cheap Lowes 3M brand masking tape for this kind of work. This particular tape releases from fiberglass well, the cardboard is a total-loss component as you will need to peal it off the back. Or if you wish you could wax it, I myself do not think it worth the time. After removal I just give the backside a quick buzz with a sander. Like I said this method is not for top end exposed parts.
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Looks great Rob.
Dave Lindemann
Lifetime Supporter
Rob -
Great job as always - the parts look excellent! One simple release agent I've used on corrugated forms is waxed paper. Just tape it over the cardboard and the cured fiberglass will pop right off.
Dave L
Great job as always - the parts look excellent! One simple release agent I've used on corrugated forms is waxed paper. Just tape it over the cardboard and the cured fiberglass will pop right off.
Dave L
Odd... I used to use Wax Paper too back when I was working with Polyester resin... I tried it late last year with some West Systems Epoxy Resin to make some flat sheet stock (basically sandwiching 3 layers of chopped strand) and when I returned 2 days later, the epoxy resin had thoroughly bonded to the waxed paper! I mean it ate through the waxed surface and was into the paper itself!
Since I have been using Poly bag material.. It does not stick to that..
Since I have been using Poly bag material.. It does not stick to that..
Epoxy resin is a different animal for sure. It bites into a lot of stuff Polyester resin doesn't. I love it though.
Really? I hate epoxy resin, I want my polyester stuff, haha (doing some carbon fiber work at the moment and the air bubbles are killing me!)
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