SPF Drivetrain Install

[Tim Terry]

FWIW, there is also an MSD distributor that doesn't require an external box. I just put one in a Boss 302 build for my old Mustang. It works perfectly without an ugly box.

 

[Mark]

I have found that exhaust/engine heat is a considerable factor. You may want to look at insulating the underside of the clam shell with shielding and the rear bulkhead. In my case and in addition to ceramic coating the headers and mufflers, there was a need for Inconel heat shielding at the shock towers and along the frame parallel to the cylinder heads. Even with all that, I hope that I don't get stuck idling too long in traffic as the air flow is critical or the motor is going to struggle to get air.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I have found that exhaust/engine heat is a considerable factor. You may want to look at insulating the underside of the clam shell with shielding and the rear bulkhead. In my case and in addition to ceramic coating the headers and mufflers, there was a need for Inconel heat shielding at the shock towers and along the frame parallel to the cylinder heads. Even with all that, I hope that I don't get stuck idling too long in traffic as the air flow is critical or the motor is going to struggle to get air.

With an engine running proper mixture we have not found the heat under the rear to be excessive. We coat the underside of the calm over the exhaust with LizardSkin ceramic coating and that works well. I have been stuck in traffic at 88 degrees for 15 minutes and not had a problem. Granted the AC could not keep up but the engine did not overheat (had fan override on) and I got out and checked the fiberglass over the exhaust and it was very warm but not hot enough to cause paint damage.

 

[Lee Patterson]

In preparation for an upcoming SPF project, would appreciate any updates to this thread for those that have done recent cars in the past few years that reflect the current SPF offering / configuration.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

In preparation for an upcoming SPF project, would appreciate any updates to this thread for those that have done recent cars in the past few years that reflect the current SPF offering / configuration.

Blas is just finishing a multiple hundred-page SPF GT40 manual/install/maintenance manual. "SPFWiringDiagrams" <[email protected]>

 

[Dave]

Hell Mike, I have Air Conditioned Cup Holders to keep the BIG GULP cold! And of course a necker's knob on the steering wheel to keep one hand free for the hot babe in the passenger seat.

Now installing the curb feelers was a hard job on the SPF, but the antenna for the coon tail was easy, I just had to drill a hole in the rear deck behind the back glass. Killed two birds as now I have a source for the radio and amp system signal.

Good ones, Rick! You crack me up!! D.

 

[Richard]

I think most people have figured this one out. I've done two engine installs. I helped Lynn Miner install his engine and I did my own. Lynn had installed his headers (collectors forward) and we had a tough time getting the engine in. The headers were always in the way. I left my headers off and it dropped right in. Because the oil filter was on the left had side of the engine I moved the oil cooler to that side of the car. Just mirrored all the sheet metal parts. I also used a Boss 302 oil cool engine adapter.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I think most people have figured this one out. I've done two engine installs. I helped Lynn Miner install his engine and I did my own. Lynn had installed his headers (collectors forward) and we had a tough time getting the engine in. The headers were always in the way. I left my headers off and it dropped right in. Because the oil filter was on the left had side of the engine I moved the oil cooler to that side of the car. Just mirrored all the sheet metal parts. I also used a Boss 302 oil cool engine adapter.
View attachment 140423
View attachment 140422

We have had several MK I owners do this. Much shorter oil lines which help the pressure. You can actually use the existing tin, just bend it 180 degrees.

 

[Howard Jones]

A couple of things. I have found that the power train is a lot easier to work on out of the car. I took mine out to change the alternator bracket to one I made myself. To make this really easy I installed a chain hoist in the garage and made a table so I could work on the powertrain as a unit. I have a nice carb plate to use as a lift point as well as a similar lift fixture for the gearbox. I can take out my powertrain in my SLC in a day 10am - 4 pm and a few beers alone. It makes it a fun hobby not an AH FUCK!!! crisis.

The second thing. Roll around's for the car. See pictures. If you do this stuff first you will use them forever. In good conscience, I have to say that I don't believe it is possible to install the powertrain once and never have to take it out again. It's just not gonna happen. Make the future as easy as you can. Plan the car so you can work on it alone without help. Build it so it can be disassembled. Every decision should keep this in mind. If you need a tool, buy it, You will be using it for the next 20 years. ANDdddd it will never be cheaper.

 

[Neil]

A couple of things. I have found that the power train is a lot easier to work on out of the car. I took mine out to change the alternator bracket to one I made myself. To make this really easy I installed a chain hoist in the garage and made a table so I could work on the powertrain as a unit. I have a nice carb plate to use as a lift point as well as a similar lift fixture for the gearbox. I can take out my powertrain in my SLC in a day 10am - 4 pm and a few beers alone. It makes it a fun hobby not an AH FUCK!!! crisis.

The second thing. Roll around's for the car. See pictures. If you do this stuff first you will use them forever. In good conscience, I have to say that I don't believe it is possible to install the powertrain once and never have to take it out again. It's just not gonna happen. Make the future as easy as you can. Plan the car so you can work on it alone without help. Build it so it can be disassembled. Every decision should keep this in mind. If you need a tool, buy it, You will be using it for the next 20 years. ANDdddd it will never be cheaper.

VERY sound advice, Howard. I did a similar thing on my black Mirage to make it as easy as possible to remove the engine and transaxle as one unit. I fabricated a simple cradle structure to allow it to be lifted by undoing a few bolts as well as coolant pipe & electrical connections and CV joint bolts. You can see the fabbed piece in this photo, it is the yellow cradle. This structure is a chassis member when it is bolted in place.
By looking at the position of the balance bar on the engine hoist you can get an idea of the weight of a complete Donovan 383 vs the Porsche G50.