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I found that toe out increased with suspension compression to a point where there was 0.1 deg toe out. I lowered the front of the lower trailing arm slightly
until the roll steer was minimised. I tried again and was pleased to find that the pendulum effect was gone.
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Bump-steering any track-driven car with an independent rear is pretty important. If that outside rear starts toe-ing out as it loads up in a corner, it totally upsets the car. Then you start thinking 'oversteer' and start chasing shocks, springs and bars, or changing static toe to compensate, which introduces more scrub. If you can't get rid of bumpsteer completely, you're looking for a wee bit of toe-in. They make affordable guages in the $100+ range with dial indicators which makes it pretty easy to do once you get the process down. We shoot for <=.01" of toe-in at 1" of bump. I wrote an excel spreadsheet that lets me input the readings on the guages, and excel decides which number to subtract from which. Then I paste the data for each setting change to another worksheet which does the graphs. I can email this if anyone cares to use it.
Also, with spring choice, you can't go too far wrong if you select springs in a ratio to your front/rear weight distribution.
How stiff you go with the bars depends a bit on how much static camber you're running. If the bars are too stiff, you won't get as much roll, and you won't be able to use lots of negative camber if you have it.
My advice is to take tire temps religiously after every session, and use a pyrometer with a probe, not an infrared one. The three measurements across the tread definitely tell you how efficiently you're heating the tires across the contact patch. I also believe if you add up the three measurements for each tire, and compare the four tires, you will see patterns of how hard you're working one corner or one end of the car, and this will help you decide on what to attack when making changes.
My $0.02. Have fun.
Geoff