Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Looks good....just make sure you can fit your starter motor with no issues...
Toms RCR 40 Trackracer
- Thread starter EGLITOM
- Start date
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Hi Tom,
Well done..
Be careful walking on that floor where you have your bodywork stored.. Looks like someone's gone off and left it wet! :stunned:
You moved your engine more than I moved mine. I stopped at 2-3/8".
I also got from Fran (Thanks Fran) another RCR Motor Mount that I cut to support the back of the engine. I felt that the additional gap between the block mount and the Horseshoe crossmember was too far to just have the weight hang from the bolts.
GT-Forty.com
2-3/8" gap on one side vs 2-5/16" gap on the other. This is attributes to a difference in length of the tube welded into the Horseshoe;
Well done..
Be careful walking on that floor where you have your bodywork stored.. Looks like someone's gone off and left it wet! :stunned:
You moved your engine more than I moved mine. I stopped at 2-3/8".
I also got from Fran (Thanks Fran) another RCR Motor Mount that I cut to support the back of the engine. I felt that the additional gap between the block mount and the Horseshoe crossmember was too far to just have the weight hang from the bolts.
GT-Forty.com
2-3/8" gap on one side vs 2-5/16" gap on the other. This is attributes to a difference in length of the tube welded into the Horseshoe;
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Tom,
I don't have a real good photo of the way I did mine, however, I made a bushing out of two urethane "control arm bushings' that I got at a local parts store. The body of the bushing was approximately one inch diameter and the flange was about 1/4 inch. I machined an aluminum tube to accept the two of the bushings making it intentionally short so they would be in compression when tightened. I machined another aluminum bushing to make the assembly the correct lenght to get the axle flanges in the correct position.
I used the urethane bushings to hopefully absorb some of the vibration in the x-axis.
As I have not been on the road yet I am not too sure how well it will work.
Keith
I don't have a real good photo of the way I did mine, however, I made a bushing out of two urethane "control arm bushings' that I got at a local parts store. The body of the bushing was approximately one inch diameter and the flange was about 1/4 inch. I machined an aluminum tube to accept the two of the bushings making it intentionally short so they would be in compression when tightened. I machined another aluminum bushing to make the assembly the correct lenght to get the axle flanges in the correct position.
I used the urethane bushings to hopefully absorb some of the vibration in the x-axis.
As I have not been on the road yet I am not too sure how well it will work.
Keith
Attachments
Hi Keith
This is a quick sketch of how i did mine.
THe main bushing is about 30mm in diameter( i opened up the hole in the plate to this dimension) and has a flange diameter of app 50 mm. it goes through the plate all the way and has an overdimension on the other side slightly shorte than the bushing ring to assure the compression. Both parts are made of delrin ( pretty hard material, if it is to hars h i will use PU) and are compressed by the support of two app 10 mm thick alu washers.
TOM
This is a quick sketch of how i did mine.
THe main bushing is about 30mm in diameter( i opened up the hole in the plate to this dimension) and has a flange diameter of app 50 mm. it goes through the plate all the way and has an overdimension on the other side slightly shorte than the bushing ring to assure the compression. Both parts are made of delrin ( pretty hard material, if it is to hars h i will use PU) and are compressed by the support of two app 10 mm thick alu washers.
TOM
Ta Taaaah !!
Last time i showed you the pics where i stored my body panels.
Randy it was not the ice skaters palace, it was my painters preparation room, pretty clean hugh !!
I deliverd the car on Monday 15th of June. I picked it up today.
The painter was full of compliments for the RCR body quality and also for my preparation.
As mentioned in a post before the color i choosed was the orange of the Porsche GT 3 RS. But by looking at it i missed some " sparkle" in that color.
After a short discussion we decided to change the "precolor". Due to the fact that this kind of orange shade is covering pretty bad, the reco is to have a first color layer of white for having a good base.
Our change was instead of using white we used "bloodorange" ( RAL 2002), a pretty dark orange for a pre layer. After that we sprayed the orange of the Porsche plus some layers of clearcoat. The resulting color is a very interessting orange with a "copperish" shade" It doesn´t look to modern. I just love it and i´m so happy with it that i have to say this is
"oberaffengeil" ( i better not translate).
Now it´s time to let you particcipate. I have picked up the parts at the painter in heavy rain and throwed it on the chassis ( not final aligned yet).
Althoug all the parts where of the chassis it is a pretty good fit already just by reinstalling them.
As said i´m so proud on how it came out. Especially the rear flares are just gorgious. THere is no indication that they where fitted afterwards.
What do you think and don´t be mistaken it is not a metallic ( metall effect ) color, it is a uni color ???
Next step is to install lights and plexiglass parts
TOM
AWH: 510 h
Last time i showed you the pics where i stored my body panels.
Randy it was not the ice skaters palace, it was my painters preparation room, pretty clean hugh !!
I deliverd the car on Monday 15th of June. I picked it up today.
The painter was full of compliments for the RCR body quality and also for my preparation.
As mentioned in a post before the color i choosed was the orange of the Porsche GT 3 RS. But by looking at it i missed some " sparkle" in that color.
After a short discussion we decided to change the "precolor". Due to the fact that this kind of orange shade is covering pretty bad, the reco is to have a first color layer of white for having a good base.
Our change was instead of using white we used "bloodorange" ( RAL 2002), a pretty dark orange for a pre layer. After that we sprayed the orange of the Porsche plus some layers of clearcoat. The resulting color is a very interessting orange with a "copperish" shade" It doesn´t look to modern. I just love it and i´m so happy with it that i have to say this is
"oberaffengeil" ( i better not translate).
Now it´s time to let you particcipate. I have picked up the parts at the painter in heavy rain and throwed it on the chassis ( not final aligned yet).
Althoug all the parts where of the chassis it is a pretty good fit already just by reinstalling them.
As said i´m so proud on how it came out. Especially the rear flares are just gorgious. THere is no indication that they where fitted afterwards.
What do you think and don´t be mistaken it is not a metallic ( metall effect ) color, it is a uni color ???
Next step is to install lights and plexiglass parts
TOM
AWH: 510 h
Last edited:
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Thats a cool looking colour combination...
Personally I would make all the accent components black too....fuel caps, door handles etc...
Nice job Tom....the body looks straight as an arrow....
Personally I would make all the accent components black too....fuel caps, door handles etc...
Nice job Tom....the body looks straight as an arrow....
Ron McCall
Supporter
Unbelievable Tom!!! You should be VERY proud!!! I absolutely love the color with the black wheels!
Wow Tom that color looks great with the flat black. A fresh look that looks great too!:2thumbsup:
Amazing!
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