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Problem solved!

A center panel with aft facing punched louvers would be nice:idea: also.

Well not quite. I had a go tonight to see if I could use the off cut from the floor but just a little too short in the end. I'll leave it for now and continue with the rest of the panelling and put it on my list of jobs to revisit.

Also quick question for everyone. What's the best procedure for fixing the alu panels? I was going to do the following:

1) Cut panel to size and mark out spaces for rivets
2) Clamp panel in place on chassis
3) Drill two of the holes at opposite ends of the panel and fix with clecos to keep in place.
4) Lift the panel and put down a bead of sealant all the way around where the panel meets the chassis frame.
5) Rest panel back down, clamp and drill remaining holes
6) Rivet panel into place
7) remove the 2 clecos and rivet the last two holes.

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I've never done anything like this before and I want to do it right.

Also with the sealent should it go in the centre of the chassis rail? If so won't this be in direct line with where the holes will be drilled?

Trev
 
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Trevor:
I second Scott's opinion. use enough clecos to set the panel firm and drill all your holes. Get a small countersink and de-burr all your holes slightly. It takes more time but you only want to do it once. Drilling leaves a small uplifted burr at the surface and you want your panels to sit as flat as possible. Also you may want to de-burr the panel holes. Use closed end rivets and you will have a good result.
Nice looking build so far.
Cheers
Phil
 
Trev,

I started my TS build in Sept and like you had a very steep learning curve as I too have never done anything like this before. For my panelling, I drilled a couple of holes to hold the panel in place with clecos then drilled the remainder in situ. I then cleaned the burs on the panel and in the chassis then used black hammerite on the chassis holes. When dry, I used the sealant then riveted the panels in. The panels I left unriveted till the end were around the front compartment simply to allow access for fitting the steering and the brake components. To get the rivets evenly spaced, I used a piece of 1m length nylon elastic and marked out equally spaced holes when laid flat. When the nylon is stretched out, all the holes stretch out equally so when you mark the corresponding point on the elastic against the panel, you get even spacing on the rivets (not my technique, got this from a car build video so I take no credit for it). Works well and is easy.

I have a build log on the site but haven't for posted for some time, purely down to laziness on my part. This winter has been pretty bad here and I think I went into hibernation! I'll have to update.
All the best.
Ian
 

David Morton

Lifetime Supporter
Drilling is definitely an acquired skill but apply a really good strong vacuum cleaner to all the drill holes and any open ends, trying to get as much of the crap out after drilling. There will always be some somewhere, no matter how good you are at drilling.
 
Use a sharp drill bit! Sounds obvious buts its surprising how many people I see struggling on with a knackered bit that leaves a shoddy finish.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
A tip for you on drilling for 1/8" rivets:

Use a #30 drill bit. The Rivets fit easily into the holes and expand tighter before they pop.
 
Floor panel cut out tonight. Still needs filing and trimming slightly but getting there. It was a very nice feeling laying the first panel onto the car, every little bit I do fills me with a little more confidence.

build-march5.jpg


build-march6.jpg


Trev
 
Trevor,
Can I recommend you get one of these: POWER HOLE PUNCH SET PWRP

Dave Morton suggested it to me a few years back and I find it completely invaluable! Helps save a bit on drill bits and having to clean up the aly as well.

Looking good

Brett

Looks handy Brett but won't I still have the same issue when drilling into the chassis rail with debris getting into the frame?
 
Yes, but get quality bits and that will help as other people have said before. Just my 0.02

Don't know where you are based, otherwise I could have lent you mine for a try
 
Another update

Removed the floor panel, cleaned up the burrs, removed protective film and gave the panel a good clean.

I then coated all the drill holes on the chassis in hammerite and any of surface scratches to reduce the chance of rust. After drying I put a decent amount of sealant around the frame, applyed the floor panel and rivetted into place.

Here is the end result:
build-march9.jpg


Trev
 
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