12.5mm (1/2") rivets will be fine
Rgds
Andy
Rgds
Andy
Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com
- Thread starter trevorsummers
- Start date
Got my pipe wrap in the post today and it looks great, just what I need. Also on the subject of the pipes I noticed the other day when I was unwrapping the pipes that the longest pipe (bottom) seems to have picked up a dent while in transit.
Do you think this will be ok? The area is slightly creased but the scratch doesn't appear to be very deep.
Trev
Do you think this will be ok? The area is slightly creased but the scratch doesn't appear to be very deep.
Trev
Trev,
don't worry about the dent, it will be fine. To fit my pipes (which are slightly larger diameter aluminium), I had to add a couple of flat spots so that they will fit under the handbrake cable bracket, so a small dent, although annoying won't have any impact on there performance
Regards
Andy
don't worry about the dent, it will be fine. To fit my pipes (which are slightly larger diameter aluminium), I had to add a couple of flat spots so that they will fit under the handbrake cable bracket, so a small dent, although annoying won't have any impact on there performance
Regards
Andy
In the garage today and pipes are now soldered. This might not sound like much but it's the first time I've ever soldered so another nice thing to learn. A little bit messy for my first attempt but I am happy with the result.
The only thing I've noticed is that the left pipe (drivers side) seems to sit too far to the edge at the front so will probably need to be bent round slightly more to line up with where it meets the radiator.
Finally the chassis should be going off to be recoated on Tuesday. It's taken a long time to get it sorted and in the end I've had to pay several hundred pounds to have it sent back but at this point I just want to get the chassis sorted and get it back and get cracking.
Trev
The only thing I've noticed is that the left pipe (drivers side) seems to sit too far to the edge at the front so will probably need to be bent round slightly more to line up with where it meets the radiator.
Finally the chassis should be going off to be recoated on Tuesday. It's taken a long time to get it sorted and in the end I've had to pay several hundred pounds to have it sent back but at this point I just want to get the chassis sorted and get it back and get cracking.
Trev
Trevor, glad to see your back at it. No problem is too big to stop you. I had the same problem with my water pipes and tweaked them to fit.
Bill
Bill
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Trevor --
I'm curious to know what the coater's explanation was for that. To me, as a novice powder coater, that looks like the guy holding the gun just wasn't paying attention, nor did anyone look closely after it cooled off. Or was it not obvious until some rusting set in?
Last edited:
The coaters said that what happened is that when they started my job they think the static setting on the gun wasn't set the the right level. They say the corner areas where 2 sections of the chassis meet needs higher levels of charge to take which is why it's patchy.
To be fair I didn't notice anything to start with just a few rougher areas but I wouldn't know what to look for this being my first chassis. It wasn't until I flipped the chassis over and got the inspection lamp on it that I noticed the rust coming through. Let's just hope they rectify the issue and my floor isn't effected when the chassis is baked.
Trev
Trev,
Man....... you are being a lot cooler than I would have been if my chassis came back looking like that. I have to say their quality control is sorely lacking.I hope this isn't costing you more money! This redo should be gratis in my opinion. No painter worth his salt would ever let a piece of work go out the door looking like that. Pics no. 1 and 3 tell the story, and there is no excuse for that result except to say that it was the first piece that individual had done in their life. I think it says the chassis was never inspected before it went into the oven. Is this an accredited company? I would think you might have legal recourse on that work if it isn't corrected. Surely for them to be doing chassis they have a rotisserie for getting every side and part of a big project. I think it is inexcusable.
Having said all that, I hope it comes back completed and to YOUR level of satisfaction. I think I would make an effort to visit the shop when they have finished the work this time and do a personal inspection of the job, and I wouldn't take it home til it is done right 110%. They should be embarrassed over those results. I think I would quiz them over what they intend to do to correct this before they start the repair. Oh, and I don't think it would be too much for them to put it in writing.
Tell me,,,, does anyone think I am over the top on this?
Bill
Man....... you are being a lot cooler than I would have been if my chassis came back looking like that. I have to say their quality control is sorely lacking.I hope this isn't costing you more money! This redo should be gratis in my opinion. No painter worth his salt would ever let a piece of work go out the door looking like that. Pics no. 1 and 3 tell the story, and there is no excuse for that result except to say that it was the first piece that individual had done in their life. I think it says the chassis was never inspected before it went into the oven. Is this an accredited company? I would think you might have legal recourse on that work if it isn't corrected. Surely for them to be doing chassis they have a rotisserie for getting every side and part of a big project. I think it is inexcusable.
Having said all that, I hope it comes back completed and to YOUR level of satisfaction. I think I would make an effort to visit the shop when they have finished the work this time and do a personal inspection of the job, and I wouldn't take it home til it is done right 110%. They should be embarrassed over those results. I think I would quiz them over what they intend to do to correct this before they start the repair. Oh, and I don't think it would be too much for them to put it in writing.
Tell me,,,, does anyone think I am over the top on this?
Bill
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
That's consistent with what I've read: that in inside corners you need higher voltage to get the powder to stick than you do on a more planar surface. Most of whay I've done is simple boxes and brackets so I haven't had the problem (yet). I guess I'm just surprised that a professional would not see that coming.
BTW typical heat is 400-450 fahrenheit for 15 minutes in an oven, although sometimes they do large objects by pointing an infrared light at it directly. In the latter case, in principle at least, sensitive areas could be shielded from that radiation and thus protected from that kind of temperature. I remember you were worried about sealant melting but don't remember what the sealant was.
Last edited:
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Not really; I think I would be expecting a free do-over probably also covering my expenses (transport, etc.). But I'm assuming what I said above, namely, that a professional would anticipate a challenge with inside corners and would be watching for issues there before calling it "done". And of course in photos it's hard to tell how bad things really are, but the whole idea of powder coating is to NOT have the possibility of corrosion, visible or not. Otherwise why bother? For example, I'm perfectly capable of grabbing a rattle can of rustoleium and producing something that will have rust spots weeks or months later. And I can prove it!
When spraying powder on inside corners, a phenomenon called Faraday Effect occurs. A rotational magnetic field draws powder away from the inside corner, leaving a light or thin coating of the surfaces. Some spray guns use a “pulse” feature to reduce Faraday Effects. If the spray gun does not have this feature, then manually pulsing the trigger will yield better results, in addition to constantly changing the spraying angle.
With regards to rust, I typically ensure that all inside corners and difficult to reach/spray areas are free of rust by initially sandblasting then “thermal coating” or “metalizing” these areas or the entire part prior to powder coating.
It’s also important to note incorrectly cured powder will allow moisture to penetrate and that powders do not all cure at the same temperature. Check with the manufacture on the cure temperature for each powder being used.
Just my 2 cents
With regards to rust, I typically ensure that all inside corners and difficult to reach/spray areas are free of rust by initially sandblasting then “thermal coating” or “metalizing” these areas or the entire part prior to powder coating.
It’s also important to note incorrectly cured powder will allow moisture to penetrate and that powders do not all cure at the same temperature. Check with the manufacture on the cure temperature for each powder being used.
Just my 2 cents
I am staying cool for the sake of getting my car finished Bill. To get the chassis back to the coaters has taken several months of phone calls. They have been very apologetic and ensured me they will put right the problem and return the car the chassis as it should be. However the issue was over collection of my chassis as I feel it is their fault and as such should arrange to pickup the chassis. As it is I have had to shell out several hundred pounds in transportation fees, money I could do without spending.
I don't want to point any fingers at companies, pass blame onto the coaters or Tornado as up until now I've had no problems and both Andy and Scott do a fantastic, I just want my GT40 on the road. I've already wasted too much time and money on this issue so it better come back good otherwise I'll be walking away from the project.
Trev
Trevor
I may have mentioned this before I can't remember but have you thought about zinc flame spraying. My chassis was done as most GTD chassis were before painting. These car's take an awful lot of time, energy, blood, sweat, anger etc and a considerable amount of money to complete, the added protection in my opinion is well worth the effort. You will chip paint off during the build and it will get damaged once the car is on the road the zinc coating will stop any corrosion beginning. I have a few area where the paint got chipped and three years on not a sign of any rust on the unprotected surface, I haven't even painted the chips yet. I have been following your thread and at this stage while the chassis is away would be a great time to consider the zinc coating. Don't do anything during the build that will make you think I should have done this or that because at the end of the build it will drive you mad.
Martin
I may have mentioned this before I can't remember but have you thought about zinc flame spraying. My chassis was done as most GTD chassis were before painting. These car's take an awful lot of time, energy, blood, sweat, anger etc and a considerable amount of money to complete, the added protection in my opinion is well worth the effort. You will chip paint off during the build and it will get damaged once the car is on the road the zinc coating will stop any corrosion beginning. I have a few area where the paint got chipped and three years on not a sign of any rust on the unprotected surface, I haven't even painted the chips yet. I have been following your thread and at this stage while the chassis is away would be a great time to consider the zinc coating. Don't do anything during the build that will make you think I should have done this or that because at the end of the build it will drive you mad.
Martin
Right, just been onto the coaters again. They tell me that in the past few months all new chassis' are zinc primed but as my chassis is nearly 12months old it hasn't been primed and I was not given the option when I bought it.
The manager at the coaters has ensured me that he will personally check the chassis before it comes back to me but say it will not be zinc primed.
Any suggestions on anything I can apply on top of the powder to further protect the chassis?
Trev
The manager at the coaters has ensured me that he will personally check the chassis before it comes back to me but say it will not be zinc primed.
Any suggestions on anything I can apply on top of the powder to further protect the chassis?
Trev
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
MY GTD was zinc coated by Roy Smart when he did my chassis 7 years ago (yes, I have been building it that long).
Like Martin, I would definately recommend it in the UK. Where I have had to cut stuff out and weld back in again, I have used zinc/galvinising paint to help afterwards. I have no rust after all these years. Those that have seen my car know I have chopped it abotu and have loads of knicks and bits all over the chassis.
Brett
Like Martin, I would definately recommend it in the UK. Where I have had to cut stuff out and weld back in again, I have used zinc/galvinising paint to help afterwards. I have no rust after all these years. Those that have seen my car know I have chopped it abotu and have loads of knicks and bits all over the chassis.
Brett
Painted zinc coating and pure metal flame spraying with zinc are two entirely different processes. All early GTDs, and Martin Goughs car, was flame sprayed, a method of putting pure zinc metal coating onto to freshly blasted clean metal chassis. Painted zinc is a totally different material. What you dont want is cold dipped galvanised. Frank
