Trevor
Get it flame sprayed.
Martin
Get it flame sprayed.
Martin
Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com
- Thread starter trevorsummers
- Start date
It's not possible to have the chassis zinc flame sprayed etc with the current coaters. This would mean me having to first remove the floor, then send the car off again to be stripped, zinc flamed and recoated and my expense.
Are there any owners on here that don't have zinc flamed chassis and how do they hold up in standard powder?
Trev
Are there any owners on here that don't have zinc flamed chassis and how do they hold up in standard powder?
Trev
Hi Trev,
my frame is powder coated and it was done around 2 years ago.
But I have to say, it was done by a friend of mine doing this for living and his customers are out of the heavy industry so he has got quite a lot of experience with reliability.
Also he did my Cobra Frame and all suspension and so on three or four years ago, very cool I have to say .....no problems at all.
The difference might be, that my frame was heated up before it got blasted to get the humidity out a bit , then sand blasted, immediately rolled into the powder tunnel, heated up again for two hours or so until there was no humidity left at all, and then powder process was done....He told me the poor guy doing that was complaining as it was all hot ( very hot) inside
This might be the difference ? don't know, and the layer was pretty thick....
I learned there are two different powders for coating, one more scratch resistant, one more resistant against stone-chipping ( seems to be more soft ?)
But this is all I know ....
cheers
(C)arlos
my frame is powder coated and it was done around 2 years ago.
But I have to say, it was done by a friend of mine doing this for living and his customers are out of the heavy industry so he has got quite a lot of experience with reliability.
Also he did my Cobra Frame and all suspension and so on three or four years ago, very cool I have to say .....no problems at all.
The difference might be, that my frame was heated up before it got blasted to get the humidity out a bit , then sand blasted, immediately rolled into the powder tunnel, heated up again for two hours or so until there was no humidity left at all, and then powder process was done....He told me the poor guy doing that was complaining as it was all hot ( very hot) inside
This might be the difference ? don't know, and the layer was pretty thick....I learned there are two different powders for coating, one more scratch resistant, one more resistant against stone-chipping ( seems to be more soft ?)
But this is all I know ....
cheers
(C)arlos
Chassis is back
Hi all
Finally time for an update. After sending the chassis off several weeks ago the coaters finally got round to re-coating the chassis this week and it was delivered back to me this morning.
So the moment of truth, well it's good and bad news. The good news is that the coating looks thicker and richer than before and makes me think it's been done much better. The floor actually looks really good now as it's all black and matches the frame.
However, the coating doesn't appear to be the same type as I had originally. I paid to have a satin black colour (slightly matt finish) but what I now have is more glossy. It's not the end of the world as my panels that I've had powder coated with my local company still match and when the venture shield is applied will go more shiny anyway. But the big issue is the floor.
When I spoke to the owner of the coating company he assured me that the sealant was all still intact and he was happy with the results. Well the sealant is still there but not on every area of the floor. There are 2 small areas where the floor looks like it's peeled away from the frame slightly and daylight can be seen through the gaps.
Like I say the rest of the floor looks fine but I will still run sealant round the whole floor inside and out again to ensure no gaps but I don't know what to do about the 2 gaps. Should I pull them open, fill with sealant and pop an additional couple of rivets in or is this a show stopper?
Thanks
Trev
Hi all
Finally time for an update. After sending the chassis off several weeks ago the coaters finally got round to re-coating the chassis this week and it was delivered back to me this morning.
So the moment of truth, well it's good and bad news. The good news is that the coating looks thicker and richer than before and makes me think it's been done much better. The floor actually looks really good now as it's all black and matches the frame.
However, the coating doesn't appear to be the same type as I had originally. I paid to have a satin black colour (slightly matt finish) but what I now have is more glossy. It's not the end of the world as my panels that I've had powder coated with my local company still match and when the venture shield is applied will go more shiny anyway. But the big issue is the floor.
When I spoke to the owner of the coating company he assured me that the sealant was all still intact and he was happy with the results. Well the sealant is still there but not on every area of the floor. There are 2 small areas where the floor looks like it's peeled away from the frame slightly and daylight can be seen through the gaps.
Like I say the rest of the floor looks fine but I will still run sealant round the whole floor inside and out again to ensure no gaps but I don't know what to do about the 2 gaps. Should I pull them open, fill with sealant and pop an additional couple of rivets in or is this a show stopper?
Thanks
Trev
Put some sealant in it and then either leave it or stick a rivet in it for added reassurance.
You should go round the inside of the cockpit with sealant for added protection anyway.
You should go round the inside of the cockpit with sealant for added protection anyway.
Hi all
Had a very busy weekends worth of work. Yesterday I got the chassis upside down and completely resealed all of the floor and put plenty of fresh sealant in the 2 areas where floor had come away slightly from the chassis. I also sealed and rivetted the small floor panel that I had made to fit down the central tunnel to stop anything getting in near the radiator pipes.
After that the chassis was flipped the right way round and I completely resealed the all the flooring areas inside and out with lots of sealant. Finally today I refitted all the panels, mounted the fuel tanks, put the pedal box back in and radiator pipes and it's all looking really good and I am very happy with the way the car is now looking.
Next up is to seal and rivet the wheel arch panels and then start fitting the suspension. I was going wait to rivet all of the wheel arch panels and fit aluminium angle along the top edge where the panels meet the fibreglass spider but as the panels are so neat I don't think the angle will improve the look.
It feels great to be moving along again :thumbsup:.
Trev
Had a very busy weekends worth of work. Yesterday I got the chassis upside down and completely resealed all of the floor and put plenty of fresh sealant in the 2 areas where floor had come away slightly from the chassis. I also sealed and rivetted the small floor panel that I had made to fit down the central tunnel to stop anything getting in near the radiator pipes.
After that the chassis was flipped the right way round and I completely resealed the all the flooring areas inside and out with lots of sealant. Finally today I refitted all the panels, mounted the fuel tanks, put the pedal box back in and radiator pipes and it's all looking really good and I am very happy with the way the car is now looking.
Next up is to seal and rivet the wheel arch panels and then start fitting the suspension. I was going wait to rivet all of the wheel arch panels and fit aluminium angle along the top edge where the panels meet the fibreglass spider but as the panels are so neat I don't think the angle will improve the look.
It feels great to be moving along again :thumbsup:.
Trev
Hi Trev,
why not get the finishing strip powdercoated the same colour as the the panels, that way it won't stand out as much.
Keep up the good work,
Rgds,
Andy
why not get the finishing strip powdercoated the same colour as the the panels, that way it won't stand out as much.
Keep up the good work,
Rgds,
Andy
It would have been powder coated but I still don't think it would improve the look to be honest. The way it looks now makes it look more like a mono chassis as everything matches the frame so I don't think it's an issue.
If I decide at the end of the build I could always seal on some thinner aluminum angle just above the line of rivets to tidy the edges up
Trev
Trevor, glad to see your back at it. Looks good.
Bill
Bill
Just finished making paper templates for the first areas that I plan to apply ventureshield to. At the moment I plan to cover the wheel arches, front floor panel and sill tops to protect them from chips and scratches and then add more to other areas during the build. Once the ventureshield is on, the wheel arch panels can be sealed and rivetted and then the suspension can go on.
Here are a few pictures showing how I plan to apply the ventureshield:
Trev
Here are a few pictures showing how I plan to apply the ventureshield:
Trev
Hi all, finally time for another update. Firstly I finished making my fake fuel sender covers for my sills. I've made them using 2 aluminium offcuts and cut down 20 6mm bolts. Next I drilled the holes and then glued the new stubby bolts into place. Tomorrow I just need to tidy up the underside of the covers but otherwise they are nearly done.
Next up and I've been busy fitting the ventureshield to the wheel arch panels. Today I finished fitting the first side of the car and I am really happy with the result. The ventureshield does make the areas it's applied to more glossy but it's fine as I am only applying it to areas of the chassis where I want extra protection and that are hidden away.
Here are a few pictures, the film didn't photo very well but it actually looks very good.
Next up and I've been busy fitting the ventureshield to the wheel arch panels. Today I finished fitting the first side of the car and I am really happy with the result. The ventureshield does make the areas it's applied to more glossy but it's fine as I am only applying it to areas of the chassis where I want extra protection and that are hidden away.
Here are a few pictures, the film didn't photo very well but it actually looks very good.
Trev,
The VentureSeal looks good. You might consider it on the areas where the front clip comes down next to the spyder on the sides to keep from scuffing the surface. I tried it with helicopter tape but it only comes in 4" widths. So I have taken it off and will go with something like what you have. Be careful going over any rivets etc. It will leave air bubbles. Sometimes they can be gotten rid of with a sharp pin.
Bill
The VentureSeal looks good. You might consider it on the areas where the front clip comes down next to the spyder on the sides to keep from scuffing the surface. I tried it with helicopter tape but it only comes in 4" widths. So I have taken it off and will go with something like what you have. Be careful going over any rivets etc. It will leave air bubbles. Sometimes they can be gotten rid of with a sharp pin.
Bill
Thanks Bill. I've actually bought more film than I need as I expect there will be a few areas that crop up that would benefit from being coated in the film.
Trev
Going well Trevor, and I love your workmanship. There always seems to me to be a touch of irony in making fake bits (fuel sender covers in this instance) to make the car more authentic. But it's your car; whatever floats your boat.
Thanks, I know what you mean about the 'fake' parts but I just had to have the correct looking fuel sender covers. I am a designer by trade so it's probably more important how the car looks than it goes for me and it's the small details that I notice
. The fuel senders and sill beading as you open the door was the first thing I noticed when seeing a GT40 for the first time so it's a shape and style that's stuck in my mind. As for the real fuel sender covers these are going to powder coated black to blend with the sills and fitted with black screws so you don't notice them.
Trev
Hi Dalton,
I agree with Trevor, if you’re not having carpet on the sills, they just don’t look right without the blanking plates. I’ve done the same on my build and I feel from a design perspective it breaks up the bulk of the top of the sill
Regards
Andy
I agree with Trevor, if you’re not having carpet on the sills, they just don’t look right without the blanking plates. I’ve done the same on my build and I feel from a design perspective it breaks up the bulk of the top of the sill
Regards
Andy
