Tornado TS40 Build Belfast Northern Ireland

[Andy Green]

Hi Keith,

Regarding the filler caps, according to the regs they don’t have to be lockable, but they do have to be tethered. I used brake cable from a push bike and made the crimps out of a small length of brake pipe

The filler flanges and tank will need to be modified to add a separate vent line, otherwise the tanks won’t fill properly see attached. Note the blue silicon hose was for mock-only as it’s not fuel resistant. The smaller line is the breather line to atmosphere which gores through the roller-over valve (stops fuel spilling if the car is inverted)

Regards,
Andy

 

[Bill Musarra]

Andy,
On your last pic is the second small hose a vent line from the other end of the tank?? You will need one for when you are parked on a down grade. The expanding bubble at the back(heat)will force fuel up the filler pipe and then burp out the vent line in spite of the roll over valve. They are pressure limited(at least i think mine is), and you will get fuel into the interior.No?? Is yours different??

Bill

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Bill,
yes there are 2 tank vents, one at the front and a second at the rear to prevent the situation rising that you've described

Regards,
Andy

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Keith, you can just download the latest. From v9

A fuel filler cap must positively locate to the filler neck and incorporate an adequate sealing arrangement so that a fuel leak is not possible.

1. The fuel filler cap must either be tethered to the vehicle or be of a lockable type where the key can only be removed when the cap is locked or an automatically opening and closing, non-removable fuel filler cap

(Post 0 5 / 2009 vehicles only)​

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[Keith Stafford]

Guys thanks, I do have the later IVA doc,... I got confused, too many PDFs; anyway it looks like tethering is the easiest option, still. Andy thanks for the pix, I have some stainless braid from a work prototype, all I need now is sharp pliers.

 

[Brett James-McCall]

So for the questions and promises

Keith, here is what has been done on my fuel fillers


Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr

David, here is the size of the cap to go inside the fuel filler


Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr

 

[Keith Stafford]

Cheers Brett, can I ask do you have a breather from the rear of the tanks as well, or just the front? Both Bill and Andy have a rear breather, which I don't have at present. So that seems like another small mod. My tanks are foam filled and at least on has had fuel in, I am thinking about a screw-on connection for the rear breather, as opposed to welding. Possibly I can push the foam out of the way via the level gauge access hole and either fit an attachment or get a stub pipe welded on? K

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Yes, I will be installing a rear breather on both tanks. I have -6 bosses welded in and will be attaching to a Think roll-over valve.

How is your tank set up? If you have a float vale for your fuel level, you must have a void space to allow the float to work and therefore could weld a boss in. If it is a dip valave you can push the foam back and then release when it cools down.

If you have fuel in one, then I would be very careful before you weld!

BTW I may have a spare rollover valve somehwere, as I managaed to buy an extra one along the way somewhere

 

[Keith Stafford]

Brett, not sure about the gauge, I believe the std Tornado is a float on a lever, I'll PM or email you re. the valve,.... in the unlikely event,..... K

 

[David]

Thanks Brett, FYI those ones I linked to are 92mm OD and the key is retained in the lock.

 

[Keith Stafford]

This weekend I was working on the panels for the filler caps and the front apron, managed to get the panels on and the front apron cut. Unfort the previous owner had cut the holes in the apron but because I had repositioned all the body panels, these holes were in the wrong place. I thought is best to panel this area and put the fillers through a panel rather then the fibreglass apron.

I'm thinking of using riv-nuts for the roof section, so it can be removed easily, so I riveted where needed and left the riv-nuts for later as I'll need to drill through the apron, ally and chassis in one go.

I used a bent (carefully formed) piece of ally to define the curve for the cut.

Later this week hope to get the front of the roof section repositioned on the car and the riv-nuts inserted, then I can move on to the tanks, breathers and vents.

 

[Keith Stafford]

Fitted tank breathers (Mocal) to the rear of both tanks, as the clearance height it low I used some that had a connector at 90 degrees. The front breathers are an inline type and will be attached to the inside of the panelling around the main filler pipes.

 

[Keith Stafford]

Also panelled the footwells, awkward to do with all the other panels done, the EPAS had to come out, the pedals had to be moved,....the shapes and bends are a pain too, at least it will be covered with carpet, I hope. put in some lead sound proofing to deaden the road noise, would I ever have heard it?

 

[Keith Stafford]

Electrical circuits

Can I ask my viewers how many fused circuits do you have and how many relays, I want to get the fuse and relay boxes ordered.

Relays, I'm thinking, fans (1), water pump (2), EPAS (3), winkies (4), headlights (5), starter (6), maybe,.... I have no A/C.

 

[Brett James-McCall]

From Memory

Relays (original) 7 in total

Starter
Dips
Mains
Indicators
Fans
Fuel Pump x 2

Relays (added)
3 x Fused protection (I diverted the power from going through the iginition switch)
Timer Relay with normal for Intermittent Wipe
Changeover relay as I am only going to be running 1 Fuel Gauge
Lower Spots/Driving Lights
Rear Fog Relay for new IVA requirements

In total I will be having 24 fused circuits. 16 came with the loom that I got, but I have added in another box for additonal circuits that I have added (separated out the Rear Fog, Spots, Water Pump, Door Locks, Mirrors and some others I can't remember as I write this). The below shows how I have mounted the boxes along with the EWP Controller and in the background you can see the original fuses


Untitled by Brett-GT40, on Flickr

 

[Ian Anderson]

A big relay for power safety cut off.

Ian

 

[Keith Stafford]

Thanks guys,... Ian, does your DGB (dirty great big) relay isolate all the electrical circuits via a normally closed dooms day switch?

 

[Ian Anderson]

Not something on my car but something that made sense when Russ Nichol mentioned it a few years back

ROss Nichol posted here
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...ine-cooling/25944-master-shut-off-switch.html

Ian
ps I must get out more as I remembered this discussion

 

[Keith Stafford]

Got my new steering wheel adapter back from the workshop. The top of the Corsa C EPAS is a 21.5mm splined shaft that did not fit into the previous hex adapter which had a 19mm hole,... I could have made it fit but we would have to have removed too much material making the wall too thin. I just need to weld it on now.

 

[Keith Stafford]

The throttle pedal was a bit stiff and did not have a lot of travel, so moved the cable connection point closer to the fulcrum, hopefully killing 2 birds. The travel before the move was about 4cm, now I have about 6cm and it is much freer. FYI, I moved the connection point in by about 2.5cm (1").