Warts and all GT40 Australia #48

[Pete McCluskey.]

Re: GT40 Australia #48

Wow Tim, I guess I have something to look forward to. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

 

[Tim Kay]

Re: GT40 Australia #48

Sure to happen Pete,

The car will get it, god knows it's not our good looks (as much as we'd like to tell ourselves)

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Re: GT40 Australia #48

Aaahaa! Now we know why the removable steering wheel Pete -- well just watch ya bum steering shaft then /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GregF]

Pete

Just wanted to say thanks and congratulations on one terrific build and the time you took to document it all. Spent two hours last night going through all your pages and got a real good feel for what to expect.

It's quite clear I will have to have a very serious think about the DRB now. Pre-collapse, I had decided on an RF mainly because I liked the fact that all parts could be purchased, nicely packed and labelled, AP brakes, and a deluxe rolling kit which just needed basic finishing plus engine and box. Quite clearly, the DRB might not be packaged quite so user friendly, but the end result speaks volumes.
Yours surely has to be one of the nicest GT's I have seen so far and is a credit to DRB, the "replica" industry and Australian know-how. Only thing that has me nervous is the (NSW) state registration and emission laws. I'm not really fussed about building a replica of a genuine GT40, but more interested in building the car they would build now, if they had have had access to all the modern brake, engine and suspension technology we now enjoy.

BTW - what are the wheel/tyre dimensions you used?

Best regards
Greg

 

[Darrell]

Greg just had a look at your post quote (Quite clearly, the DRB might not be packaged quite so user friendly,) nothing could be more from the truth I researched for 18 months before deciding wich way to go for my build including a trips to Roaring forties in Vic , GT40NZ and DRB visiting turn key customers and self builders of both OZ cars and many hours going over each cars specs. Treat yourself to a trip to Qld on the first Saturday of any month at DRB and have a good look over Peter's product.

Darrell

DRB #46
LS1 G50

ps. Greg feel free to send me a email if you wish

 

[Mike Dozier]

Actually there's a little bit of truth to both statements.
From what I've heard, RF did an outstanding job with their
packaging/labeling/build Manual....much better than most.

However the basic DRB already comes with the body mounted,
aligned, and all paneling done...so there really isn't a need for them
to document any of that. This clearly shortens build time quite a bit.

DRB's Manual is decent...I've seen better...but it's good enough for the job.
And Peter is very helpful if you get stuck on anything.
I'd recommend them to anyone considering a GT40.

MikeD

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

Greg, thank you for the kind words. you will not go wrong with Peter and his team of professionals.
My wheels are Simmons three piece Fr17/8 front and Fr17/12 rears.
tyres are Pirrelli Pzero 235/40/17 front and 335/35/17 rear.
Hope that helps.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

When I was away at the F1 GP I gave the car back to PR and the boys for a few mods to be done. Harrop brakes were fitted, a vast improvement over the original Corvette brakes. They do have an ear drum busting squeal when cold which hopefully will go away when they have done a few miles. If not I will try different friction pads.
A removable steering wheel was fitted which makes entry and exit a piece of cake.
A breather/catch tank was fitted to the right hand side of the motor, this gives me breathing from both banks.
I also had a thinner seat cushion made for the passenger seat which will enable taller passengers to ride without bumping their heads on the roof.
In the process of doing this Peter discovered a problem with the windscreen wiper motor, which he replaced at no cost to me. And the left hand rear wheel was slightly rubbing the inner guard on bumps, P.R. also had that fixed once again at no cost to me. Great after sales service.
We put the car back on the Dyno and found an extra 12.6 H.P. The car is now putting out 375.1 rear wheel H.P.
Question. What do you think that equates to at the flywheel? I'm guessing about 510 HP.

 

[GregF]

As I understand it, it all depends on drive line loss ie: gearbox, tyre size/pressure etc. which is different for every car. As I understand it, about -15-20% is the ball park. If you talk to three different dyno operators, you usually get three different answers - bit like Economics graduates. My guestimate would be that yours is putting out in the region of 430-450hp at the fly.

I always use the same dyno and he uses the same settings every time, so at least I can compare apples with apples. If driving the car gives you sweatty palms, then you know the power is sufficient.

You can always do what Rolls Royce used to do - just quote the power as "ample"!

Cheers
Greg

 

[Bill Musarra]

Pete,
What is your wheel offset and backspace if you remember. Would like to use about the same size tires, just different wheels.

Bill

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

Sorry Bill No idea, I will see if I can dig it up and let you know.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

wheels

I haven't forgotten you Bill, my excuse is four weeks off work and no one filled in for me, I have been up to my arse in crocodiles. I'll have a look this week end.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

wheels

Bill sorry but for the life of me I cannot find the information you are after. The only info I could find was the invoice for the wheels but that just had them described as 2x 17x8 simmons and 2x 17x12 simmons. I suggest you email Peter Ransom at [email protected]. He should be able to help.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

You can always do what Rolls Royce used to do - just quote the power as "ample"!

Cheers
Greg

Greg, The power is certainly "ample" I have already had a couple of instances
where a little to much right foot has had the rear's unexpectedly breaking traction. It's the unexpected bit that gets the heart rate going. Hence I am becoming "Mr smooth" with the throttle.

 

[Craig White]

Bill sorry but for the life of me I cannot find the information you are after. The only info I could find was the invoice for the wheels but that just had them described as 2x 17x8 simmons and 2x 17x12 simmons. I suggest you email Peter Ransom at [email protected]. He should be able to help.

Pete, are you sure you have 17x8 on the front. I actually thought they were 17x9's as you have 245(or 255)40/17 front tyres.

Pete, I'm nearly 100% sure your offsets are:

17x9": 120mm backspace
17x12": 130mm backspace

Peter Ransom gave me these offset details just aftering ordering your wheels.

Bill, the rear offsets are for factory Gulf flared GT40.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

Craig, I just quoted what the invoice stated, but from memory you are correct
they are 17x9, tires are 255/40ZR17. I think you are spot on about the offset as well.
But as I could not find the bit of paper I did not want to quote from memory.
As it turned out the bit of paper I did find was wrong.

"Telle est la vie"

 

[Bill Musarra]

Craig and Pete,
Thanks for the info. It is all just so I can have a starting place for mine. Since it is an early DRB with flares, it may be a "little different". Since I dont have any wheels or tires on it now, it has to be done from scratch. That means some strange measurements for the wheel manufacturer.

Bill

 

[Craig White]

Craig and Pete,
Since it is an early DRB with flares, it may be a "little different".

Bill

Bill, flares???. If you haven't changed the body at the front and if the suspension has the same offset, the bodies etc have not changed. So front offset should be correct for you.

Did you flare the rear? If so your offset might vary. My rear clip has a custom gulf flare job, so my offsets are a touch different than factory gulf body.

I'm just about to confirm wheel spacing etc. I'll see if I remember and send you a PM. I've actually got access to both front & rear wheels from a gulf DRB, running same diameter tyres as I will be running. Makes it easy to get offsets right.

Make sure you get those offsets right. Seems to be a very common mistake and many builders end up with wheels that don't fit well. A few wheel places here will mock up a front & rear wheel at the offsets you require for you to test fitment before they are fully completed. Maybe you can organise the same thing.

My DRB Manual states that offsets are 8" rim: 130mm, 12" rim: 140mm. The backspaces above are less than these figures as the factory now pushes the wheels/tyres further out so that they hug the body better.

Also make sure you supply the wheel place the offsets etc in writing via fax etc. So you've got something to back you up if they are not built to spec. Good luck.

 

[Pete McCluskey.]

OOPS

During the parade laps at the historic's last weekend P.R. who was just in front of me slowed right down and made a space the length of the front straight and then took off like a scalded cat much to the delight of the crowd.
Not to be out done I did similar, great reaction from the crowd and officials making slow down signals....What a hoot.
The back straight coming up sure enough off goes PR, this time thinks I, I'll really put on a show, 6,500 revs dump the clutch lots of wheel spin axle tramp
cheers and aforesaid officials now taking photos.... Uh Ooh, strange noise coming from the back. Smile turns to frown. I'm sure I didn't even hit the rev
limiter...But then there is no tell tale on my Tacho.
Slow trip home, off comes the rocker cover and sure enough one bent push rod.
Aw well no other damage, it could of been worse. Now I am in the process of checking push rod lengths, tappet clearances, and valve spring coil clearances.
So far all seem to be spot on, so maybe, just maybe, I did give the engine a tiny little buzz.
Lesson learned........

 

[Jac Mac]

Do a leakdown on the cyl with the bent pushrod Pete, If its down check the rest.

Jac Mac