Super job Ron. I know you have put a lot of effort into this project.
Bill
Bill
Build Diary - RCR Lola T70 Spider
- Thread starter Ron Earp
- Start date
Pete McCluskey.
Lifetime Supporter
Congratulations Ron, a terrific accomplishment.
I don't normally do superlatives Ron, because the work always speaks for itself, but your tale is a demonstration of ultimate sucess over adversity and the motto "never give up" has never been so apt. Well played mate and very good luck to you on the track.
Although you absolutely deserve it, your steadfast and unwavering approach will always bring good results...
Although you absolutely deserve it, your steadfast and unwavering approach will always bring good results...
Ron Earp
Admin
I didn't realize I'd not updated this log in quite awhile. Well, a lot has changed since the last update, too much to list. The recent changes we're making the garage involve the oil coolers, ignition, and fuel sender.
The oil coolers were not being very effective mounted vertically to the chassis and out of the airflow. So we fabricated new mounts that hold the cooler at about a 45 degree angle and up into the body opening for the coolers. We've still got to fabricate additional block plates to make sure the air is forced through the coolers but we're getting there. I also added a fan that is mounted behind the main cooler.
I've relocated the MSD boxes on the passenger side cage and they are isolated with rubber bushings. Both boxes are mounted to a plate, the plate the clamped to the cage. Stole this one from the dirt track boys. Idea is you can quickly remove your plate and entire MSD system and replace it with another. We've got redundant systems that we can toggle between, so I doubt that will be necessary, but I mounted it in this fashion because I just wasn't sure I wanted there. Now that it is there I feel the location is good and the door will protect the units from the elements.
Speedhut speedometer - this thing is perfect. Read about them. Need a speedo, look no further.
Header tank/catch cans - had a local shop weld me up a mutliple can setup and I mounted it with a strong brace to the bottom pan and cross bar for the rear. Very stable, and a good thing too since the header tank is now plenty large and carries a lot of water. Catch cans are for water overflow and transaxle.
Next up on the work list is a fuel sender in the cell. The sender I have is a 0-90 ohm unit that can be cut to fit for length and has an adjustable set point to trigger a light. I was planning to not run a gauge and just stick with the light triggered at some level that is meaningful. Once the car is converted back to 100% street/track day use the fuel cell will be removed. My chassis sponson tank already has a mechanical fuel gauge I mounted years ago, so, no need for a dash gauge in my opinion but I think my teammates differ in opinion.
Other changes this go around: aircraft panel access door in rear clip for checking water level, cut outs on rear deck to allow better airflow, fab up some heat shields for a few areas, adjust the carb, and some changes to the seat to increase driver comfort.
The oil coolers were not being very effective mounted vertically to the chassis and out of the airflow. So we fabricated new mounts that hold the cooler at about a 45 degree angle and up into the body opening for the coolers. We've still got to fabricate additional block plates to make sure the air is forced through the coolers but we're getting there. I also added a fan that is mounted behind the main cooler.
I've relocated the MSD boxes on the passenger side cage and they are isolated with rubber bushings. Both boxes are mounted to a plate, the plate the clamped to the cage. Stole this one from the dirt track boys. Idea is you can quickly remove your plate and entire MSD system and replace it with another. We've got redundant systems that we can toggle between, so I doubt that will be necessary, but I mounted it in this fashion because I just wasn't sure I wanted there. Now that it is there I feel the location is good and the door will protect the units from the elements.
Speedhut speedometer - this thing is perfect. Read about them. Need a speedo, look no further.
Header tank/catch cans - had a local shop weld me up a mutliple can setup and I mounted it with a strong brace to the bottom pan and cross bar for the rear. Very stable, and a good thing too since the header tank is now plenty large and carries a lot of water. Catch cans are for water overflow and transaxle.
Next up on the work list is a fuel sender in the cell. The sender I have is a 0-90 ohm unit that can be cut to fit for length and has an adjustable set point to trigger a light. I was planning to not run a gauge and just stick with the light triggered at some level that is meaningful. Once the car is converted back to 100% street/track day use the fuel cell will be removed. My chassis sponson tank already has a mechanical fuel gauge I mounted years ago, so, no need for a dash gauge in my opinion but I think my teammates differ in opinion.
Other changes this go around: aircraft panel access door in rear clip for checking water level, cut outs on rear deck to allow better airflow, fab up some heat shields for a few areas, adjust the carb, and some changes to the seat to increase driver comfort.
Attachments
Howard Jones
Supporter
Ron, that header tank looks like it hold about a gallon. Do you know the volume? and..... help with your thinking on a big header tank like that one. You clearly believe that the first version was too small. How big was it before and why did you feel you needed a much larger one.
I made mine 1.75 quarts. Thats a bit bigger than most that you can buy like Moroso"s. Do you think I should do another one? I run max 30mins session's. Is yours for long multi hour runs?
I made mine 1.75 quarts. Thats a bit bigger than most that you can buy like Moroso"s. Do you think I should do another one? I run max 30mins session's. Is yours for long multi hour runs?
Ron Earp
Admin
Hey Howard,
I'm sure mine is too big. But, the one quart I had was too small. Effectively it had to have room for expansion that essentially limited it to 1/2 qt of extra water. It seemed like based on engine speed the level would vary in that little tank and many times we opened it to find it almost dry, then, without adding water or any changes it'd be 1/2 full 10 mins later.
The new one is probably about a gallon (run 3 qts in it) and we don't see changes in the level at all. Why? Don't know. Just know I feel a bit safer having it there and not seeing fluxuations.
R
I'm sure mine is too big. But, the one quart I had was too small. Effectively it had to have room for expansion that essentially limited it to 1/2 qt of extra water. It seemed like based on engine speed the level would vary in that little tank and many times we opened it to find it almost dry, then, without adding water or any changes it'd be 1/2 full 10 mins later.
The new one is probably about a gallon (run 3 qts in it) and we don't see changes in the level at all. Why? Don't know. Just know I feel a bit safer having it there and not seeing fluxuations.
R
Jeff Young
GT40s Supporter
We were pumping water out of the motor before. Not sure why. With the tank that has stopped. Not sure it is the tank....magical mystery water system!
The big thing on this car right now for endurance reliability purposes seems to me to be the oil temp. 280 is too hot. Hopefully the new mount (Jeff G. and Ron busted hump on that) will work.
One questino for you guys who run Lolas/GT40s, etc. for longish races. What type of seat do you use? Even 20-30 minutes in this car and I'm drenched in sweat and a mass of sore muscles, mainly from bracing myself against g-loads. Are any of you able to get a full containment seat in the car?
The big thing on this car right now for endurance reliability purposes seems to me to be the oil temp. 280 is too hot. Hopefully the new mount (Jeff G. and Ron busted hump on that) will work.
One questino for you guys who run Lolas/GT40s, etc. for longish races. What type of seat do you use? Even 20-30 minutes in this car and I'm drenched in sweat and a mass of sore muscles, mainly from bracing myself against g-loads. Are any of you able to get a full containment seat in the car?
Where is the Oil Temperature Sending Unit located?
Mechanical or Electrical?
If it's located towards the top of the pan, or in the top of the oil pan Sump kick-out, it is too close to the surface of the oil and you're getting a false reading from the blow-by gasses...
I read the oil temp on the outlet side of my oil coolers whenever possible. This tells me the temperature of the oil I'm feeding the bearings. 280 read there would be about max for a synthetic oil. I would rather see it no higher than 250.
Ron Earp
Admin
No, that was the original setup. Long gone, well, gone late in 2009. Temp and water issue was resolved on the track outing back in Feb but the new header tank just got added a month or so ago. Not sure it really needed the new tank, but, I don't mind having it.
The temp seems to get higher in each re-telling of the story. My notes from the day say 250-260F, which is too damn hot in my opinion. Pickup is mechanical, SW gauge, probe mounted in the block on the return from the cooler. I too would rather see it mounted out on the exit of the cooler as I am sure it is getting some residual heat that is making it a bit higher than it would be if checked at the cooler. I'd like to see something around 220-225F.
Jeff Young
GT40s Supporter
The notes are accurate -- if I said 260 that's what it was. Like you said though, too hot.
Hopefully the new cooler set up you guys came up with will fix it. Was that Castrol Syntec you had on the garage floor today?
Hopefully the new cooler set up you guys came up with will fix it. Was that Castrol Syntec you had on the garage floor today?
Ron Earp
Admin
Yes, that is synthetic Castrol. As well known I'm not a big fan of that stuff, but if we're going to run high oil temps (I hope not after the cooler move and ducting) then maybe it'll help. I know some people are happy with 250/260F, but since I never see those temps in the Z I'd rather not see them in the T70.
Ron Earp
Admin
Got the plate off the fuel cell and the cell emptied out. Now I am fixing to mount my sender into the plate.
Has anyone got experience with the FuelSafe SUP 12-L-0-90 capacitance style fuel sender? This sender can drive a 0-90 ohm gauge and has a warning light output as well. The directions on the unit are a bit ambiguous since there is an "old style" with adjustment pots, and a new style without. My directions have nothing on the new style, only the old style.
The sender can be shortened, and I must do that to fit it in the cell, but the directions never tell you what the ideal level is above the bottom of the tank, or liquid level. I assume you don’t want the send 0.5mm off the bottom of the tank. Do you cut the sender for the level of fuel you want the gauge to read empty at?
Quite naturally I’ll ring them up but if anyone has experience with these devices and some useful input let me know.
Has anyone got experience with the FuelSafe SUP 12-L-0-90 capacitance style fuel sender? This sender can drive a 0-90 ohm gauge and has a warning light output as well. The directions on the unit are a bit ambiguous since there is an "old style" with adjustment pots, and a new style without. My directions have nothing on the new style, only the old style.
The sender can be shortened, and I must do that to fit it in the cell, but the directions never tell you what the ideal level is above the bottom of the tank, or liquid level. I assume you don’t want the send 0.5mm off the bottom of the tank. Do you cut the sender for the level of fuel you want the gauge to read empty at?
Quite naturally I’ll ring them up but if anyone has experience with these devices and some useful input let me know.
Attachments
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Could you elaborate on this diagram. This is similar to my set-up, except the remote overflow is about an inch higher. Could you explain "coolant is taking the easy way out"?.
Thanks
Ron Earp
Admin
You need to block the rear coolant taps in the manifold. Otherwise the coolant doesn't flow from the back of the head to the front of the manifold, it just comes up through the block, out of the back of the head, into the rear of the manifold, then out to the header tank.
Ron,
You have the saame unit as mine. You should have two screw adjusters. One is for the adjustment of where full is the other is for the low level lite. There should be three wires to atach also. The positive, negative, and the sender wire. I'm at work right now, but when I get home I will give you the particulars for setting them.
Jeff,
I am using the Racetech seats for my 40. Every time I rode in someones 40, I felt like I was sliding all over the place and was holding on to whatever in turns. I am 5-9 and 160 so I am not that small. The Racetech seats fit me like a glove and fit in the space allowed for the seats, I will get some regular seats for show. Take a look at Pete's DRB for a seat that has some side bolsters in a reguylar seat. The Racetech seats are slanted back and fit right up to the firewall and have slots for a full 5-6 point straps. Do a search for Racetech and the thread(s) that I have posted them on will come up. I don't remember the style they are as they aren't real easy to find on their site, I seem to remember the Saker as the model as they were made specificly for that car. The mounts are adjustable and they sit about 1/2" off the floor.Here is the page.
http://http://www.racetechseatsna.com/products.php?name=Seats/RTSAKER.php
Bill
You have the saame unit as mine. You should have two screw adjusters. One is for the adjustment of where full is the other is for the low level lite. There should be three wires to atach also. The positive, negative, and the sender wire. I'm at work right now, but when I get home I will give you the particulars for setting them.
Jeff,
I am using the Racetech seats for my 40. Every time I rode in someones 40, I felt like I was sliding all over the place and was holding on to whatever in turns. I am 5-9 and 160 so I am not that small. The Racetech seats fit me like a glove and fit in the space allowed for the seats, I will get some regular seats for show. Take a look at Pete's DRB for a seat that has some side bolsters in a reguylar seat. The Racetech seats are slanted back and fit right up to the firewall and have slots for a full 5-6 point straps. Do a search for Racetech and the thread(s) that I have posted them on will come up. I don't remember the style they are as they aren't real easy to find on their site, I seem to remember the Saker as the model as they were made specificly for that car. The mounts are adjustable and they sit about 1/2" off the floor.Here is the page.
http://http://www.racetechseatsna.com/products.php?name=Seats/RTSAKER.php
Bill
Ron Earp
Admin
Hey Bill,
You don't need to do that. I have the new style, mentioned on the website, that has no screw adjusters. I have the screw adjust directions that shipped with it, but, this unit has no adjustment screws and four terminals - ground, 12V, sender, and low fuel alarm. Different animal.
Ron
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