Howard,The goal is to have no tire to bodywork interference. That means a narrower rather than a wider track. Start with all four lower A-Arms as short as practical with the rod ends screwed nearly all the way in. Bottom them and screw back out a couple of turns. Now install upper A-Arms the same way.
Check Camber. If you have Neg 2-3 degrees, that's great. Now you have that much adjustability. If necessary you can screw out the lowers BUT you give up tire clearance if you do so avoid it if possible and minimize it if necessary. You can now set camber by only changing the upper A-arms rod end length. Hopefully only with the single outboard rod end that is attached to the upright.
In any final setup, the inboard rod ends on the A arms should always be the same number of turns in or out as compared to its mate on the other side. That means at the rear the two lowers are the same and the two tops are the same as compared to the other bottom or top. At the front, again the lowers are the same and the tops are the same. Do not set toe with them.
That's the end goal. Place the A-arms so that the camber can be adjusted with only the outboard rod ends on the upper A-arms. For a street car, your final setting will be neg 1/2 - 3/4 degree. Track only cars will run neg 1 to 2 1/2.
Now that you have the adjustment range accounted for, set camber to 0 on all four corners with 0 toe. Leave the car setup this way until you finish the bodywork and are SURE you have no body to tire interference.
Note: RCR told me that the washers on either side of the A-arms inboard side rodends within U mounts should be centered to get the correct caster, That's how my car is set and it seems fine to me even though I have never measured caster.
BIG ASS NOTE!!!!!! Always adjust a rod end so that when done with adjustment at LEAST 50% of the threads are screwed into the parent part (A-arm in this case). This does not include jam nut. Measure from outboard face of jam nut to end of threads = 50% of total thread length. In our case given we are working with aluminum, I have made that 60% for peace of mind. This can be a difficult rule to follow. Do it anyway.
This process can be time-consuming and a bit frustrating but if you set up the suspension this way AND THEN place bodywork at least you won't do it the other way around and find you have body to tire issues and not enough suspension adjustment to fix it AFTER you think you have finished body mounting. THAT will be frustrating!
In order to set both rear tires at perfect the fore aft distance form the frame and centered on the body I had to move the rear driver wheel about 2mm back, therefore is not perfectly centered do you think that will affect caster much?
Also to get zero camber the threads on all 3 upper arm adjustments get close to 50%, I did measure it closely and was worried for sure , So I agree with Howard , pay close attention , it will take some back and forth adjustment. It took much longer than I thought.
Howard, just curious, what ride height do you use for the track?