Converting RHD SLC to LHD

I’m going to cross post this here in case someone can help.


So my SLC is in the wiring stage. Having difficulty sorting the GM column and the coach controls integration. Here is the schematic for the GM column.
Here’s what I know.
12V IN to #18 and 19 for the turn signal feed, this 12v is supplied from the coach system which has a built in flasher relay. Which then allows the stalk to give 12v OUT to #15 & 14 which turns on each respective turn signal. I’ve confirmed this works, HOWEVER, the flash seems slow and not very bright. This could be normal, not sure.

The horn is ground input which works just fine.

EDIT.....what I still need to figure out is where to run the 12v supply to the GM column for the headlights, and then from there which pin out supplies the high and low beam. The schematic labeling is confusing.


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Here are the schematics for the coach system.

I have all the ignition working via a start/stop touch button.

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Ive added a diagram from I believe Kurtiss GTR thread.



So today I tested my Dakota tail lights. I bought the black LED version of these lights. It has one prewired section with a black, green and red wire. When I hookup the black to ground and my turn signal wire to the green I get an audible relay clicking and flashing at the light as it should be. When I instead connect it to the red wire I get the same flashing but no audible relay clicking.

So, I’m obviously assuming that black/ground, green/turn, red/brakes.

Can anyone tell me what is going on in the circuit to explain the difference in relay clicking? Higher or lower resistance?

Also, where does the running light signal come in? Is it just a lower voltage but still connected to the red wire?

Also, the Dakota lights have one other port which I’m assuming are for the reverse lamps.
 
Did you order your coach system with Euro taillights or standard?
It is the coupe 23 kit.

I found this diagram, this may work idk. I guess brake and turn are the same wire/lead to the light, but two separate circuits from the coach board. Running lights will then have to somehow come from the GM column wiring.
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Ok so I think I found my solution, this a flasher relay designed to work with LED. It has one extra ground on it for some purpose, I’m not an electrical engineer by a long shot. This will allow me to do a few things. One is use an amber turn signal for front and rear. The other is to keep my brake and running lights separate and distinct.
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The other thing I’ve come to realize is again I’m just trying to do too much at once. Found myself getting extremely frustrated again. My new plan is to completely finish the wiring, even to the point of speakers working. Only then will I get back to body work etc. I basically have all the alignment done, but body fitment with my hacked up tub is proving to be a nightmare. Starting this weekend the rear clam and front clam are going on the back porch, it’s just way too crammed in my little 1 car.
 

Johan

Supporter
I’m going to cross post this here in case someone can help.


So my SLC is in the wiring stage. Having difficulty sorting the GM column and the coach controls integration. Here is the schematic for the GM column.
Here’s what I know.
12V IN to #18 and 19 for the turn signal feed, this 12v is supplied from the coach system which has a built in flasher relay. Which then allows the stalk to give 12v OUT to #15 & 14 which turns on each respective turn signal. I’ve confirmed this works, HOWEVER, the flash seems slow and not very bright. This could be normal, not sure.

The horn is ground input which works just fine.

EDIT.....what I still need to figure out is where to run the 12v supply to the GM column for the headlights, and then from there which pin out supplies the high and low beam. The schematic labeling is confusing.


E7CA7EF8-C742-46F9-BE1E-4B67A686EBA6.jpeg


Here are the schematics for the coach system.

I have all the ignition working via a start/stop touch button.

85B20A00-B6C5-4B02-880A-A9E7B2E4820C.jpeg



EF65F222-5B54-4088-938D-FFF3681CF2DA.jpeg



Ive added a diagram from I believe Kurtiss GTR thread.



So today I tested my Dakota tail lights. I bought the black LED version of these lights. It has one prewired section with a black, green and red wire. When I hookup the black to ground and my turn signal wire to the green I get an audible relay clicking and flashing at the light as it should be. When I instead connect it to the red wire I get the same flashing but no audible relay clicking.

So, I’m obviously assuming that black/ground, green/turn, red/brakes.

Can anyone tell me what is going on in the circuit to explain the difference in relay clicking? Higher or lower resistance?

Also, where does the running light signal come in? Is it just a lower voltage but still connected to the red wire?

Also, the Dakota lights have one other port which I’m assuming are for the reverse lamps.
Kyle, it’s a couple of years since I wired my car but if I’m not mistaken the High and Low beam are a ground output.
Maybe someone else can shime in and confirm. (That’s on the Olds column)
 
Well, finally figured all the wiring out. Probably isn’t the way it’s supposed to work with the GM column but it works fine. Just waiting on my GM harness connectors from mouser to come in so I can finish. 99% of the other wiring is done. Final connections at the lights won’t be done until the body is on and I can accurately cut the wire length.

I also started hacking the seats. Stay tuned. Next is to fill in the side with more mat and then sand smooth. I also plan to cut them a little shorter on the sides like the tillets and then carbon fiber
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The next task is to get the body in WITHOUT the tub, line it all up and then I plan on drilling 4 mounting holes in the lower edges of the spider. Then take the spider off, put tub back in and then see if it lines up with the tub. If not I’m going to adjust the tub to suit the body and not the other way around.
 
Bit of an update, again electrical is mostly done. The connector from mouser for the gm steering harness worked flawlessly, just need to find my location for the hazard switch and I can finish the hazard lights. All other systems work as they should. I’m not impressed with the brake switch, it isn’t sensitive enough, going to get a low pressure switch I guess.

Stereo is wired, just need to run lines for the front and rear cameras. Also need to run my trinary wiring. So I guess I have more than I thought.

Body fitment is still a nightmare, actually dreading it. The tub and body fit half decent, but as you can see from the photos I’m going with ozite carpet, hopefully that cuts down on noise and it looks decent, cleans up nice. As you can see it will cover any fitment issues well.

Still finishing the center console, needs more sanding and then carbon fiber cover.

The seats are coming a long, just take time for things to dry. Should be filled in and done soon.
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Little update. All AC wiring is done, fan motor functions as it should. Center console is nearly finished, just have to locate holes for the AC controls.

Body fitment continues to plague me. Can anyone with a proper fit body provide me with these dimensions? These are frame to spider, in mm.

As you can see from the last few pictures my front wheel gaps are way off, the front clam is too far aft, the rear clam shows the same. The whole structure needs to go forward. However to push the spider forward means the very front of the spider will hang over the chassis near the steering column about 1in, is this normal?

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Can anyone comment on if the splitter goes on top or bottom of the aluminum plate on the front? Looking at cams blog it looks like his is on to of the aluminum plate.
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Joel K

Supporter
Kyle,

It goes on top. Here is a thread on it...

 
Well I installed the flywheel and clutch earlier this week, car moves forward and backwards under its own power. Clutch feel super strange, really like a slow mush long feel.

Today I was able to get the spider locked down, rear clam bolted up and working properly, still need to re-drill holes for the splitter and get it all lined up. I’m happy now with how the body fits.

The dash is bolted in, just have to figure out how I’m going to support the front section. I still have a lot of sanding to do but you can see how the screen fits nicely. On the left hand side I have 4 switches, hazard, foot lights, and one switch each for the door actuators. My A/C controls will be mounted just below the stereo on the center console.

The seats will be skinned with carbon fiber as well as the center console.

I have one headlight in, the other just needs to have the holes drilled. Then on to the other side to cut out the fiberglass for the other lights. Not so easy fitting them and getting a perfect hole.

You can see my tight quarters in these photos, really presents a challenge building this thing. I would have had it done months ago if i had more space.

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I feel for you Kyle, my quarters are super tight as well, definitely a challenge, hanging the spider from the roof helped a little . I will post updates soon. Keep up the good work
 

Joel K

Supporter
Kyle,

Looking forward to seeing how your carbon skinning of the seats come out. I may do the same, but never really worked with carbon fiber before. Keep up the great work!
 
I have a list about a mile long of things to do, I bounce around a lot. Really considering getting some quick jacks because it is quite a pain raising this thing up and the frame does not like to flex at all. However I feel like it’s one of those tools that would make my life much much easier.

Today I was able to get the bolts for the seats which go through the floor pan, just using 4 5/16 bolts with round heads from the bottom up. So seats are now mounted, but will have to come right back out to finish them and the interior. I have my harnesses, so one of the next steps is to create the mounting brackets and weld in brackets on the main hoop. Just using 90 angle steel for some simple brackets.

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I’ve been working on fitting the roof panel which is a main chore. If at first it doesn’t seem like it fits it’s because you need to chop back a ton of the spider to fit the contour of the bulkhead portion. I thought I had clearanced enough but I need to take at least another 1/2 to 1/4in of material off. It’s a slow process for me because I don’t want to have to fill in if I take off too much of the spider.
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i was also able to mount the rear latches, straight forward. However getting the pins to lineup is a chore as well. The edge of the spider has a bit of a slant to it where the bolts go through. So they are slightly tilted and don’t go into the latches straight. They work for now with a bit of encouragement but I’ll have to come back later and do some fine tuning. I have the old street tail hinges so it doesn’t swing back as far as I’d like.
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Kyle:
I just realized you just started the project in October, you have done incredible progress in just 7 months. Truly amazing, do you ever sleep?
 
Kyle:
I just realized you just started the project in October, you have done incredible progress in just 7 months. Truly amazing, do you ever sleep?
Hector I actually think if I had more space I would have had it done months ago! Well, at least driveable and all major systems in place.

If anyone is reading this in the future, invest in a way to remove and replace the spider as a solo job. I can’t tel you how many tasks I’ve had to put off or delay etc because I can’t remove the spider myself. Especially when you factor in the tub.
 
Darn, I feel super slow. I created a lift with a $20 game hoist (as in deer) form harbor freight, and elongated it a bit, works great!! I can do it by my self, just lower the front and back slowly back and forth. I have regular ceilings , so I do hit my head every once in a while :) .
 

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Darn, I feel super slow. I created a lift with a $20 game hoist (as in deer) form harbor freight, and elongated it a bit, works great!! I can do it by my self, just lower the front and back slowly back and forth. I have regular ceilings , so I do hit my head every once in a while :) .

hector do you have a measurement from bottom of spider to floor, when the spider is lifted? I actually considered this after seeing your post a few months ago. When I went to buy them none were in stock so I abandoned the idea. However, seeing it again I really need to do it.
 
Kyle,
Is just over 4 feet from the floor to the bottom of the spider, which sounds low, but that gives me plenty of room underneath to work on any part of the car, and you can lift it then move the car back a bit if you need more room around the engine area. It has worked well for me for several months. Hopefully the fiberglass won't be stressed too much they way I am supporting it , I have not seen any spider or stress cracks so far. I can send you detailed pictures of the extensions I made with square tubing and thin steel rods, as you can see they bend a bit but they have not moved in several months. The straps are also from Harbor Freight .
 
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