Converting RHD SLC to LHD

Kyle,

That is running very rich as mine did originally. I have noticed on my build that the Terminator X base fuel table is very conservative and rich to start with. I have only had mine "learning" in the lower RPM range so far and it is pulling about 40% fuel out of each cell. If you look at my fuel table after transferring the learn data there is a huge valley in the lower RPM range. I have been looking at the base fuel tables in the Holley V6 software and they are not as rich to start with across the board. I may switch over to the V6 table and see if that is any better. I have already switched to a modified timing table (for a stock 5.3L) from the Holley V6 software and an AFR table (for an LS2) that is running better than the tune I had sent you (copy is attached below).

Although the flames are cool, just not optimal performance.
 

Attachments

Kyle

Supporter
I’ll check yours out and compare. Mine too pulled 40 at idle. Right now I’m just working on dropping the idle as low as it will tolerate and messing with the idle spark control. Edit....I actually just looked at sloppy mechanics tune and he has the same engine, he’s pulling out 30-40 across the board. I’m going to swap in his fuel table and just see what it does.

Also...anyone have a leak here on the lift system? The O-ring seems to be ok. It is tight and it still leaks when the lift lowers back down.
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Kyle

Supporter
It should be 45 degree double flare. Bubble flares are for metric fittings and altogether different.
I just checked my tool, you’re right I did a 45 double flare.

btw, I think I remember in another thread you mentioned getting hubcentric wheels spacers to someone else. I’m having trouble finding 3mm spacers, do you know of a place?
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Unfortunately hub centric spacers aren’t made that thin.

You should be fine with a spacer. Upgrading to longer wheel studs would be recommended as well. Summit Racing has a good selection but 5mm might be the thinnest available.
 
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Kyle

Supporter
Unfortunately hub centric spacers aren’t made that thin.

You should be fine with a spacer. Upgrading to longer wheel studs would be recommended as well. Summit Racing has a good selection but 5mm might be the thinnest available.
Thank you.

For those that have fit the tub to the spider, etc. Did you do so with sound deadening under the tub? Anyone have issues with this raising the height of the tub when final fitting? Just don’t want the bottom of the tub to rest on the bare aluminum floor. I had to do quite a bit of cutting of the tub so I want to start getting it repaired and make a center console.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Kyle,

Cam did a nice write up on this and you can see where he placed the sound deadening on the tub.

 

Kyle

Supporter
Kyle,

Cam did a nice write up on this and you can see where he placed the sound deadening on the tub.

Thanks Joel, I’m definitely going to put insulation on the tub. I’m more so wondering if everyone is putting insulation on the floor boards where the tub and frame meet. These kind of details or up close pictures tend to be lacking. I haven’t quite decided if I’m going to cover the tub in carpet, paint it, or skin it in carbon fiber. Either way, the transition where tub meets floor always seems to be an undocumented area.
 

Kyle

Supporter
Did a few things today. Installed 8in 850 springs. I have another 80lbs with an iron block. Probably comparable to everyone else who has a Graz, super chargers, oil coolers etc, but just wanted a little extra spring.
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Mounted and set a location for the powered sub. Practically no room in this area.
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Mounted the evaporator. I just used a single metal strap. It goes up the back in between the housing and motor, then around the front. Not the prettiest now but it is rock solid and only one bolt to remove. Just need to add foam tape up top for some cushion and a little extra hold.
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Finally epoxied and cutout the areas in the dash for the Holley and stereo. Both should now just slide into the fiberglass surrounds with no bolts etc. I will need to do extensive fiberglass work to fill in the areas I had to chop out.
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Last, I started to glass in the door handles areas since I will be using the actuators.
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Kyle

Supporter
Fillers are in and bondo has started. Also about to repair the portion of the tub I had to cut out before. Aluminum tape to hold it in place until I get it out. Taking the body and tub on and off has to be the most frustrating part of the build.

I’m going to attempt to salvage the center console sent with the kit. Split it in half and then widen it.

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Kyle

Supporter
Does anyone have pictures of the older style rear clam hinge setup and mounting points? Debating on springing for the new setup or fabricating my own.
 

Kyle

Supporter
That dash looks awesome! You are inspring me to break out the fiberglass supplies.
Really nice work Kyle, love the hi-tech look!
Hey thanks! fiberglass doesn’t scare me too much, just annoying waiting for it to cure. I’ll be doing something similar to Joel’s seats after I hack them all up, no room in the RHD car.

Does anyone else’s door hinges look like this? Should these be tightened into the hinge all the way?
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I decided to hack up the tub more, what I had just wasn’t working, the pieces the are “short” will be extended to meet the center spline. Also I think that is how I will do the center console, feels comfortable. It will be skinned in carbon after the fiberglass shell is made. The missing pieces will be filled in.
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Also, I absolutely hate the tail, if I had the choice from the factory it would have been race tail. Therefor time to make my own. I know others have done it. Essentially I will be completely removing the diffuser portion. Then on the lateral sides I will be raising each fender from the bottom about 4in. Hopefully this gives a good view of those fat tires, criminal to hide them. I will obviously have to fab up a new hinge, but this should allow me to make one that lets the clam fold all the way open.
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Did a few things today. Installed 8in 850 springs. I have another 80lbs with an iron block. Probably comparable to everyone else who has a Graz, super chargers, oil coolers etc, but just wanted a little extra spring.
View attachment 113232

Mounted and set a location for the powered sub. Practically no room in this area.
View attachment 113233View attachment 113234

Mounted the evaporator. I just used a single metal strap. It goes up the back in between the housing and motor, then around the front. Not the prettiest now but it is rock solid and only one bolt to remove. Just need to add foam tape up top for some cushion and a little extra hold.
View attachment 113235

Finally epoxied and cutout the areas in the dash for the Holley and stereo. Both should now just slide into the fiberglass surrounds with no bolts etc. I will need to do extensive fiberglass work to fill in the areas I had to chop out.
View attachment 113236View attachment 113237View attachment 113238

Last, I started to glass in the door handles areas since I will be using the actuators.View attachment 113239View attachment 113240View attachment 113241
 

Kyle

Supporter
The below photos are some of my body fitment, not the best at all. I have some inconsistencies mainly where the top of the tub meets the spider. Also trimming the spider for the rear close out panel/ceiling isn’t going to be fun, not sure how I’m going to guesstimate what to trim.

Also my door hinges most likely were fitted from the factory, the fitment isn’t great at all so I’ll probably have to change those.

All in all it’s going to be a ton of body work.

Trying to finish the electrical before i jump into more body/fiber stuff.

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