Dusty's SLC Build

[Ken Roberts]

I highly recommend widening the front roll hoop. This will be one of your last chances to get it done. We all hate how thick the A pillar covers are and the fact they don't even fit without adding additional material. Joel developed a great solution (Joels build video 102). I copied it on my car.

Newer cars from the factory have had the hoop redesigned to help alleviate this problem. I don't know when the redesign took place unfortunately. Probably in the last 3 years. Just a guess.

 

[Murray Dowman]

I highly recommend widening the front roll hoop. This will be one of your last chances to get it done. We all hate how thick the A pillar covers are and the fact they don't even fit without adding additional material. Joel developed a great solution (Joels build video 102). I copied it on my car.

Newer cars from the factory have had the hoop redesigned to help alleviate this problem. I don't know when the redesign took place unfortunately. Probably in the last 3 years. Just a guess.

Ditto for me ( Thanks Joel ) - added 2" to width. 4130 section with spud to each side. Offset base plates to utilize existing mounting bolts

 

[Dusty]

in hindsight i wish i had done this widening when i had the cage work done by the fabricator. But at this point im going to let it stay as it is.

 

[Dusty]

A little advise needed

im having a little issue with the nose piece. Th nose piece seems to hang a little low in relation to the spider. if i use the splitter at the base that the nose piece sits, i find that the nose piece seems to ankle down in relation to the spider. solutions would be:

1. raise the aluminum radiator box assemply "up" by sliding the whole box up in relation to the aluminum tub

2. make a 1 inch spacer between the spliter and the nose piece

I tried to sit the spider as low as possible where the windshield frame sits on the foot box (remove any spaceres from the footbox and the windshield frame) but when i do that i end up with a gap at the back of the nose pice where it lays on the spider by the a pillar

i suspect i just need to do a little fiberglass work to make it all fit

 

[Ken Roberts]

Is this what you are describing? My nylon block is 1/2” thick by 2” wide. Came from the factory with it installed.

 

[Dusty]

thank you Ken!!!

Yes that's the solution!! I have been struggling with this for days.

I purchased my car partially assembled and was unsure of how the splitter was so supposed to attach. I assumed the splitter bolted below the aluminum. i bolt it above the aluminum with the uhmw plastic spacer everything will fit perfectly. i have sheets of uhmw here in my shop.

thanks guys.

and thanks to Superlight. I have called them many times to help me with small parts i'm missing/have lost. they never charge me.

 

[Alex]

I raised my front section by placing some 1/2'' plywood between the splitter and the front clip.

I traced it the shape of the front clip flange on the plywood, cut it up, and then had a bodyshop paint the wood gloss back .... 15yrs later still looks great and nobody can tell I used plywood on my car, hah.

Aluminum would be too heavy and a SOB to cut. Plastic would be a bugger to paint. But plywood is just right.

 

[Dusty]

OK, she is coming along. Body seems to be lined up OK but seems like the rear wheels are a little bit too much to the rear and the front wheels are a little bit too much to the front.

In this pic, the rear rocker panels are about 3 inches off the ground and the front rocker panels are about 6 inches off the ground so I need to adjust the springs but I need to figure this one out.

While the passenger side front fender seems to fit very well , the drivers side front fender doesn’t quite want to slide down easily next to the front of the window frame. It kind of binds up. I think I’m going to have to trim back the fender along the spot where it’s touching the window frame so that we get a better fit. as it is now, the front driver side fender rest a little higher than the front of the door. You can see it in the pic.

 

[Joel K]

Dusty, I had a similar issue with the passenger side front clam. The front clam was slightly warped but wasn’t hitting the spider as you describe. I put some weight on the area and over a period of weeks/couple months the fender relaxed and flattened out. Can’t remember how much weight, maybe 5-10 pounds. Now it lays perfectly flat.

Before…

After…

 

[Joel K]

Dusty, I had similar fit issues with the wheel base being a bit too long for the body, on post #295 documented how I adjusted the wheels to center in the body…

Thread 'Joel’s SL-C Build Thread'

May 20, 2018

Hi everyone,

I figure I’d get started and create my build thread. I ordered an SLC 8 weeks ago so delivery date is something like 8 to 16 weeks out

This will be my first component/kit car although at 19 years old I semi-restored a 68 Corvette. Did some body work, hand made the entire interior and some chassis work.

I started getting the itch to build a component car and started looking at various kits. I ran across the SLC on the web and thought it would be a very interesting and challenging build. Being a huge IMSA GTP fan I just think driving around town in a GTP car would be a lot of...

• Jkviper
• car carbon fiber fiberglass slc
• Replies: 539
• Forum: The SLC Clubhouse

 

[Mark B.]

Great progress, Dusty!
Regarding the front clip alignment, make sure you mock up your windshield before you try aligning anything with the front of the spider. Assuming you're using a glass windshield, several of us had to spread out the spider to help fill the gap between the spider and the windshield at the bottom corners. With mine, that had a bunch of knock-on effects including needing to reshape the front clip a bit in that same area since it was rubbing pretty badly on the spider. In hindsight I really wish I had gone with a lexan windshield and just slipped the inspector a bonus when I got it registered