GT40 sills - how to make these?

[TrevS]

Hi all

Hi all

I've seen a few people to have fiited sill panels that look like this:

I am guessing these are to match how the originals looked and I really like them but can't work out how they are made and fitted. Are they part of the aluminium sill panels or are they an additional cover/panel that sits on top of the sill panels?

I'd be grateful if anyone who has produced something similar could give me a bit of advice as to how to achieve this look.

Thanks

Trevor

 

[Ian Anderson]

Trevor

I've seen it done 2 ways
1) hammer / press in from the underside a piece of 1/2 round bar to get the desired shape
2) Stick a 1/2 round piece of metal on to imitate the pressing

Likewise on the inspection hatch I have seen these both as an inspecton hatch and a fake one - remember for IVA you need a sealed area between tank and cabin - perhaps fit after the test

Ian

 

[Martin]

Trevor,

I got my beading from Mick Sollis down at Southern GT. He has the correct profile. Just cut to the desired length, file the ends round then polish or powder coat to your desired finish. Then just use marine adhesive to glue them on. That's what I did.
My panels were pre fitted and powder coated before I got the chassis so I wasn't ever going to roll the beads.
The inspection panels, on mine at least, are ATL Fuel Cell Blanking Plates which you can get from Demon Tweeks. Mine is Rivnutted to the sill. I didn't cut the sill with an inspection hole so it's just for show.

Martin

 

[TrevS]

Thanks guys

I think the second option of making some ribs and then attaching them will be easier. Martin, I just had a look through your build thread and the ribs you have on your sills look perfect, exactly what I am after.

Trev

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Other option is buy a bead roller and make the panel yourself. See a good old ebay search: bead roller items - Get great deals on Other Metalworking Tools, Folders items on eBay UK!

You could probably get your money back at the end by selling it on.

 

[TrevS]

As I've already drilled the sills to the chassis I wouldn't want to risk ruining the panel as it would be very difficult to redrill a new panel. I think the safest way would be to make the ribs and then stick them to the panel.

 

[David]

Trev, ISTR you've sorted this yourself anyway but for the benefit of anyone else searching, the original ribs should be 1.060" (26.924mm) wide by 0.240" (6.096mm) high according to Ford GT40 Restoration - The Process

While not quite right (but IMO close enough for a space frame replica!) I noticed metals4U do a 1" (25.4mm) wide by 3/16" (4.7625mm) high half round aluminium strip for a very reasonable price, I think 4m should be enough and that's currently only £14.55 +VAT +delivery 1" x 3/16", Aluminium Moulding, Aluminium | Metal & Plastic online Metals4u

 

[Mike S.]

There is still another way of doing it. If you just want the look & already have metal sills for support. You can make up a mock up in wood & take a mold to do it in fiberglass. Really wouldn't be that hard but depends on your fiberglass skiils & wood working.
Mike S

 

[Dwight]

Keith Wilson described how he did his RCR.


http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/25274-keiths-rcr-gt40-mk-i-build-2.html

Re: Keith's RCR GT40 Mk I Build<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #deedf2; COLOR: #deedf2" SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->It has been a while since I have posted anything but that does not mean I have not been making progress. My build plan was to "dry fit" everything drilling all the holes making all the cut-outs and fabricating everything I needed so that when I did the assembly it would just be a "bolt it together" process.
After putting it all together I completely stripped the chassis and had the bottom and the driver/passanger compartments sprayed with Line-X.
I attached a photo of the chassis after I got it back from Line-X and I am pleased with the result. The fake ribs are half inch aluminum tube that I cut in half on the band saw and bonded in place. I set the fake access cover I made in place to see what it looks like and I am pleased with the result.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

 

[Bill Musarra]

Dwight,
I too used line x to completely undercoat my DRB framework. A word of caution. Be sure to eliminate any leakage of brake fluid. If it sits on the Line X in an area that it will pool it will soak into the line X and it will lose its attachment to the metal and become soft and bubble like. I had this happen to a bottom frame member that had a stainless cover under it. Was able to patch it and it can't be seen without very close inspection. Didn't build the brake lines until after coating.

Bill

 

[Jon Briggs]

Trev, ISTR you've sorted this yourself anyway but for the benefit of anyone else searching, the original ribs should be 1.060" (26.924mm) wide by 0.240" (6.096mm) high according to Ford GT40 Restoration - The Process

While not quite right (but IMO close enough for a space frame replica!) I noticed metals4U do a 1" (25.4mm) wide by 3/16" (4.7625mm) high half round aluminium strip for a very reasonable price, I think 4m should be enough and that's currently only £14.55 +VAT +delivery 1" x 3/16", Aluminium Moulding, Aluminium | Metal & Plastic online Metals4u

Just to add to Davids find. Aluminium Warehouse are doing the same thing for £7.39 (+VAT and delivery) for 4m.

Aluminium Half Round Moulding 1 in x 3/16 in

 

[Brian]

Very easy to press in with a bead roller, but if the panel does shrink a bit when you run it through the machine. Alternatively you could start with a fresh panel, press the beads in and then index the panel to the holes in the chassis.

Brian

 

[Randy V]

Would take one heckuva bead roller... Those beads are 1" wide. The widest bead I've seen is 1/2"... I bought the sliced 1.25" steel round bar which is about 3/16" thick and will be bonding them after rounding the ends off to my sills. I plan on using the original recipe JB Weld which I know will stand up to the 450 degrees F. in the powdercoating oven..

 

[TrevS]

Sorry for not replying to this thread but I see it's been revived and a few people commenting. I did actually make some sills for my car with ribs by using some beading suppilied by Mick Solis. It took a little time to get everything right and rounding off the ribs but I am very happy with the result. They will be powder coated black and then sealed onto the sills.

I probably could have got a better finish with a bead roller but I'd already made the top sills and drilled it and thought this would be a good solution. Also if I ever to completely carpet the sills the ribs can be removed

 

[Darrin]

I know that my kit builder offers them at what I think is a really good price:

Side Sill Top Panels - Swaged Flutes

Maybe you should talk to yours and see if they have the same option!

Hi all

Hi all

I've seen a few people to have fiited sill panels that look like this:

I am guessing these are to match how the originals looked and I really like them but can't work out how they are made and fitted. Are they part of the aluminium sill panels or are they an additional cover/panel that sits on top of the sill panels?

I'd be grateful if anyone who has produced something similar could give me a bit of advice as to how to achieve this look.

Thanks

Trevor

 

[David]

I suspect Tornado do!

The trouble is that people (like me) went and made the panels then went "Ah, I need ribs" and didn't want to waste the panel they'd spent ages creating.