Gullwing Door Conversion

Hi Fred
You are correct, did test the windscreen at the first stage of mounting the centre support and will do so before the final fitment and bonding process. The front pillars are very ridged and see only some setting on the roof sectiong maybe "bending" - but on my list to check.

Thanks for reminding me
 
Hi Bill

The movement of the door clears all sides - yes had to trim the internal door sections as can be seen on the pictures. The hinges have a slight outward movement which helps with the thickness of the fibre glass. As the door comes down, being on electrical actuators, I will mount guide pins at the bottom and then set the actuators electronically to slightly squeeze the door to the "lock" position - thus no locks !

Two issues - one, need to make a plan with a power failure - but easily solved by having pins that can be removed from the back releasing the actuator - next issue or rather project is glass side windows that slide down as there are no door handles and locks in the way.... but that is the next project !
 
Heinrich,
as you probably know the roof sections of these cars are flimsy at best if they are fiberglass. That being said, I noticed my roof line was down some from the long period(years) of not having a wind screen mounted. To cure that I plan to mount metal tabs in the shape of a Z that will be bonded to the roll cage and the fiberglass to give the roof line a little lift. The B pillar on most of the cars is flimsy as well. I originally wanted the tabs to keep that area of the roof from flexing when people get in or out of the car. Their inclination is to grab that section of the roof to help extricate themselves. Eventually it will cause stress risers and fractures in that section. With the weight of the doors on that section there will have to be a form of support. Hienrich may have built that into his system, based on his pics of the construction. He may need to support his B pillar a little more to keep all that weight from causing it to buldge. Mine will probqably be the roll cage itself taking all the weight off the roof section.

Bill
 
Anyone thought of using a carbon fiber/epoxy "tow", bonded into the pillars?
For sure it will stiffen them up considerably.
 
Anyone thought of using a carbon fiber/epoxy "tow", bonded into the pillars?
For sure it will stiffen them up considerably.

That's how the ERA roof is constructed. (Actually more than that: A fiberglass skin with carbon fiber as the main reinforcement for the whole roof.)
 
Hi Bill and Bob
Yes thanks, I will defnitively be reinforcing the pillars and the doors and will look into the carbon fibre tow. I know I used in my previous Gt40 some "Epidermix" a two part rock hard setting compound that they use to bond concrete. The centre section is very steady and will keep on testing and reinforcing where required. The only real force is on the body where the actuators are bolted and also on the back side of the door roof which I have plenty of steel and thus will still be covered by fibre glass. The steel section at the back extends right down into the double skin ridge close to the window and this will be glassed in place from the bottom as well.

Thanks for the interest and advise.
 

Dave Bilyk

Dave Bilyk
Supporter
Heinrich,
a job well done. I think you said that door only takes up 10" sideways while opening. That has to make it a worthwhile mod, without changing the look of the car while driving. I only have one comment, that the real test will be if you open the doors in windy weather, and I would do something to prevent things falling out of the door pockets.

Dave
 
Hi Dave
Thanks for the comments. Windy weather... trust will be ok. On the side pockets, I am thinking of getting curved glass that will wind down and same time cut back on the inside panel of the door, will find some storage space somewhere.

Here are some pic's with both doors operational, still need some steel work and a lot of fibreglass work. They both work great and seat down well. Will have guide pins at the bottom to secure and assist with seating and can adjust actuators to "squeeze" the door in.

Regards
Heinrich
 

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Heinrich,
Only one thing bothers me with your setup. The placement of your actuators. You have them mounted basicly, where the top of the seats will be once your seats are in place. Unless you are shorter than about 5-9, your seats will be back about as far as you can get them, unless you mount them way forward. If you made your seats lower than the actuators, then your head will be hitting them. Not a good idea from a saftey standpoint. I would sugggest three locations other than where you have them be considered.
1. If the angle you have them mounted, is the ideal angle, and the lenght of the throw is right. consider lenghtening the arms and mount the actuators as close to the doors as possible. You might even consider a cutout of the door so they can be mouunted there. there is about 3-6 inches of space that can be utilized over the tank sils.
2. If the throw lenght can be altered, mount them directly straight down from their overhead location point so that they are actually between the seats. They might even be staggered in their placement so they can be close together or overlaped. You should have about 4" to work with. If you go for the traditional GT 40 seats, then consider shortening the lenght of the arms of the actuators so that they mount high on the firewall just under the window. They may have to be enclosed as that is in line with your head in a side impact.
2. You might even consider a longer arm to mount them just above the center console(could stagger and overlap here as well). Then you could build an enclosure to actually hide them. The arms could be anodised in a smoky grey or black to let them blend in, or powder coat the exposed lenght of the arms in the closed position.
Once you get your seats and console in, you will see how tight or close things are.:furious::idea:
Just a thought!!

Bill
 
Hi Bill

Thanks for the suggestions. The current positions work well even with the seats in, I will post a pic with the doors closed and the actuators in place. Having said that, I will look at all the suggestions and see which works best. Your suggestion 1 seems really do-able and agree can do cut out on door if need be. The mount in the centre console area I think would obscure my rear view (not much - as it would only be the longer arms) but as said, will consider all options.

Really appreciate your comments and advice
Regards
Heinrich
 
Heinrich,
I haven't seen your power pllant as your pics have it covered(good idea with all that fiberglass and flying metal floating around). I think you will find as most of us have already, that your rear vision is next to nothing in these cars from the rear widow. Even the side mirrors leave a lot to be desired. I had an 85 Lotus Esprit and wrecked the front of it because all I had were those dinky mirrors. Couldn't tell where the driver on my side was(early morning, dark), and when I looked forward the truck in front of me had stopped. I am looking into three cameras and an all inclusive seven inch monitor. One camera will be above the rear clip mounted on the spider ala BMWs and the other two in the mirrors with see through mirror glass. I have retained the adjustment mechanism of the electric setup(it was a wrecker unit and didnot work), so it will be adjustable manually up down and sideways. this setup will allow me to run in NASA or some of the other organizations because they require side mirrors, but not rear view cameras. At least that is what I was told when i asked if it was good enough in place of the side mirrors. Otherwise I wouldn't run them at all. I think the cars look much better without the side mirrors at all.

Bill
 
They make two three different cameras, each with different view angles(there are actually more but not for all the cameras). For the top camera I am planning on using a 90 degree lens as it gives the most realistic picture of where things are. On the sides I will use probably 120s. If you go much higher than that you get a fish eye look and you can't judge distandces very well. An ideal setup would be 90s all the way around. Then set them up so that, as the car overtaking you goes out of view on the rear camera it comes into view on the side mirror. I have my truck setup that way and when a car is in the side mirror I know I can't go over to his lane without it being too close. It is confusing to look at my side mirrors because you wonder why I am looking at the road side instead of what is behind me. I have the towing mirrors on my truck so I set them with the fish eye section so that you can barely see the rear edge of the truck.
As I drive down the road and am overtaken, as soon as the front edge of the car disapears in the rear mirror, it apears in the side one.

Bill
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Heinrich,
... I am looking into three cameras and an all inclusive seven inch monitor. ....the other two in the mirrors with see through mirror glass.

Bill -- is the idea that you would switch the monitor among the inputs from the three cameras, or display all three images concurrently on the one display?
 
well done so far Heinrich, it looks already like a real gullwing, nice progress...
maybe you can put a lid on the side storages in the doors, or make them like a pocket/net with some elastic? band...
 
Alan,
There are several manufacturers out there and even one on Ebay. Tadi brothers puts out several models, and you can build what you like. All their stuff is interchangable. Here are several ways to do it. One does it all in the monitor.
Ultimate RV backup system Split Screen Systems - Tadi Brothers

This one uses a splitter controller.
7" Monitor with a Split Screen Control Box for up to 4 Cameras (RV System) Split Screen Systems - Tadi Brothers

Then there is the monitor that looks just like a mirror
7" Split Screen Mirror for up to 4 Cameras Split Screen Systems - Tadi Brothers

They also have a 10" monitor, I guess for the visually impared:shocked:
10.2" Split Screen Mirror for up to 3 Cameras Split Screen Systems - Tadi Brothers

This guy has a store that will sell you just about any kind of system you want. He has a good outline for what to look out for in a system.
7" COLOR REAR VIEW BACKUP CAMERA SYSTEM REVERSE SAFETY - eBay (item 270574937059 end time Feb-15-11 23:00:55 PST)
The prices run pretty much the same with all that I have seen. My wife is redoing the master bath, so I have to wait a while for mine. I have it all maped out. Just have to bide my time.

Bill
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Alan,
There are several manufacturers out there and even one on Ebay.

Cool, thanks for all the leads ; so far I had just planned one backup camera into a 7" LCD, but your clever idea of hiding cameras in the mirrors is incredibly cool and impossible to resist.

to make up for the thread drift ...

CraigW-- did you ever get a chance to dig out any pictures or whatever on your scissor doors?

The best idea I been able to come up with along those lines is to add a secondary hinge to the existing one that allows the door to pivot up (i.e. about an axis tranverse to the car) so that you would open the door "the usual way" a reasonable distance, then pivot it upwards. This has the interesting property that you don't have to use it in scissors mode; it's simply an option when you need it. This should appease the purists somewhat.
 
Alan,
At one of the car shows I attended last year there was a mustang custom with doors as you describe(in a way). Theirs opened like a normal door to about 30 degrees then pivoted up in the scissor fashion. That allows the conventional door close mechanism to function. I believe the entire action was motor driven. The mechanism was in the fender and not on the window frame.

Bill
 
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