Keith's RCR GT40 Mk I Build
- Thread starter K.Wilson
- Start date
Chris Kouba
Supporter
DOH!!! Did you ever see someone do something you need so simply and elegantly that you wondered how you never saw that in the first place? Keith, thank you very much for your post. I have never been happy with how mine are and I will be blatantly copying you on this item when I get back to the build.
If you were in the neighborhood I'd buy you a beer!
Keith, great job!
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Rear Clip Latches:
As a personal preference, I wanted to come up with hidden latches for the rear clip. I spent some time trying to "junk yard" an appropriate hood latch assembly with little luck. My final design incorporates latches copied from a post here on the forum and procured from "Air Head" parts that fit a 1968 VW.
I fabricated the "L" brackets from 1/8 inch 6061 aluminum. The plates for the "striker bolts" were fabricated from 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum plate and bolted thru the fiberglass into another matching plate on the other side.
I had to remove the spider to get enough working room the get everything lined up so I could mark and drill the attaching holes. After the sider was installed I made the final adjustments to the latch parts and I am pleased with the fit.
My plan is to install "manual choke pulls" thru the fire wall to actuate the latches when I insulate and carpet the firewall.
I can almost see the end in sight............. I should be looking for a place to have it painted in the next few weeks.
Keith
As a personal preference, I wanted to come up with hidden latches for the rear clip. I spent some time trying to "junk yard" an appropriate hood latch assembly with little luck. My final design incorporates latches copied from a post here on the forum and procured from "Air Head" parts that fit a 1968 VW.
I fabricated the "L" brackets from 1/8 inch 6061 aluminum. The plates for the "striker bolts" were fabricated from 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum plate and bolted thru the fiberglass into another matching plate on the other side.
I had to remove the spider to get enough working room the get everything lined up so I could mark and drill the attaching holes. After the sider was installed I made the final adjustments to the latch parts and I am pleased with the fit.
My plan is to install "manual choke pulls" thru the fire wall to actuate the latches when I insulate and carpet the firewall.
I can almost see the end in sight............. I should be looking for a place to have it painted in the next few weeks.
Keith
Attachments
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Chuck,
Thanks Chuck! After doing the body fitting I have huge respect for anyone who has the patients to fit the pannels and sand the seams to get them right. I have spent more time (and had more frustration) on this part of the build than the rest of the car combined.
You have no idea how happy I am to have this behind me.
Keith
Thanks Chuck! After doing the body fitting I have huge respect for anyone who has the patients to fit the pannels and sand the seams to get them right. I have spent more time (and had more frustration) on this part of the build than the rest of the car combined.
You have no idea how happy I am to have this behind me.
Keith
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Rear Clip Cables:
To keep the rear clip from falling over when open (I can't see myself carrying around the stack of 4x4's that I have been using), I made two cables and brackets. The brackets are simply 1/8 by 1/2 inch aluminum bar stock attached to the clip with two 10/32 stainless bolts. the cable is a black plastic coated 1/16 stainless cable twenty four inches long. I attached the cable end to the bracket with a "key ring" so that It would be easy to disconnect in the event I would need to take the rear clip off.
To keep the rear clip from falling over when open (I can't see myself carrying around the stack of 4x4's that I have been using), I made two cables and brackets. The brackets are simply 1/8 by 1/2 inch aluminum bar stock attached to the clip with two 10/32 stainless bolts. the cable is a black plastic coated 1/16 stainless cable twenty four inches long. I attached the cable end to the bracket with a "key ring" so that It would be easy to disconnect in the event I would need to take the rear clip off.
Attachments
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
Off to the Paint Shop!
I finally selected a painter for the car. Bruce Bunn of McDonough Georgia will do the body work and paint. Bruce's work has been featured in several of the car magazines over the years; the most recent being his '36 Ford Cabriolet on the cover of Kit Car Builder.
The paint will be black with silver stripes (I ordered the paint masking from Raceline Digital as many here on the Forum have done).
I attached two photos of the car sitting on the floor of my shop and one of the car in it's temporary home at the body shop (they started on it before we left).
Before we put the car in the trailer we put a four foot level across the top and measured down to the floor 40 and 1/4 inches.
I believe I may be suffering from postpartum depression.................
Keith
I finally selected a painter for the car. Bruce Bunn of McDonough Georgia will do the body work and paint. Bruce's work has been featured in several of the car magazines over the years; the most recent being his '36 Ford Cabriolet on the cover of Kit Car Builder.
The paint will be black with silver stripes (I ordered the paint masking from Raceline Digital as many here on the Forum have done).
I attached two photos of the car sitting on the floor of my shop and one of the car in it's temporary home at the body shop (they started on it before we left).
Before we put the car in the trailer we put a four foot level across the top and measured down to the floor 40 and 1/4 inches.
I believe I may be suffering from postpartum depression.................
Keith
Attachments
Hi Kieth,
Do you have time line from your painter?
Cheers,
Do you have time line from your painter?
Cheers,
Keith:
Think of the next several weeks away from the GT as a vacation . . . . when it returns to the garage, it is back to work . . . .
I am sure you already thought of this, but make sure that the rear clip support cables don't dip down near the drive shafts when the clip is closed. Saw a couple of lengths of rubber shock cord tied to the center of the support cables to make sure they pulled away from the drive shafts on an original GT.
Think of the next several weeks away from the GT as a vacation . . . . when it returns to the garage, it is back to work . . . .
I am sure you already thought of this, but make sure that the rear clip support cables don't dip down near the drive shafts when the clip is closed. Saw a couple of lengths of rubber shock cord tied to the center of the support cables to make sure they pulled away from the drive shafts on an original GT.
Keith, adding to Chuck's suggestion, be sure to include some sort of positive support for when the rear body section is up. This would be like a gas cylinder lift-gate support or at least a prop rod. If it's windy out, you'll be glad you did.
Keith
Lifetime Supporter
I was told eight to twelve weeks for the body and paint work. The good news is that they were able to start on it immediately. My plan is to drive over and take a look at it every few weeks (and drop off more money) to keep track of the progress.
I have been looking at some "prop rod" options for the rear clip vs. the cables. At least I have some time to think about it.............
Keith
I have been looking at some "prop rod" options for the rear clip vs. the cables. At least I have some time to think about it.............
Keith
