Kurtiss' GT-R

Joel K

Supporter
Due to Dean’s unfortunate engine oiling issues, I decided to remove the stock coolant/oil heat exchanger and install the Ford Performance remote oil cooler adapter (P/N M-6881-M50A) and a Setrab series 6 cooler and Hamburger’s 3347 remote oil filter (all with -12 AN fittings). The oil cooler aligns well with the side scoop.

I will add the oil lines after the exhaust system has been built.

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Hi Kurtiss,

I know this isn’t the same engine, wondering if you can expand on your decision on not using the stock oil to water cooler for the engine. I am putting an LT4 in an SLC and was planning on using the stock water to oil cooler but just curious about your decision.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Hi Joel,
My decision was based on Ford Performance’s oil flow requirement. In 2015, Ford Performance changed their engine oil line size recommendation on the Coyote engines from a -10 to -12. As you know, a -12 (3/4”) oil line is BIG.

Dean’s engine seized after a dyno run and Ford said it was due to lack of oil flow. I purchased a 2017 Coyote Aluminator crate engine. After I removed the stock oil filter, cooler and adapter, I noticed the oil passages in the adapter assembly were small or restrictive due to poor machining. That’s when I decided to go with a remote oil cooler and filter.

I’m not familiar with the LT4 and the stock oil cooler may work just fine.

Hope this helps,
Kurtiss
 

Joel K

Supporter
Hi Joel,
My decision was based on Ford Performance’s oil flow requirement. In 2015, Ford Performance changed their engine oil line size recommendation on the Coyote engines from a -10 to -12. As you know, a -12 (3/4”) oil line is BIG.

Dean’s engine seized after a dyno run and Ford said it was due to lack of oil flow. I purchased a 2017 Coyote Aluminator crate engine. After I removed the stock oil filter, cooler and adapter, I noticed the oil passages in the adapter assembly were small or restrictive due to poor machining. That’s when I decided to go with a remote oil cooler and filter.

I’m not familiar with the LT4 and the stock oil cooler may work just fine.

Hope this helps,
Kurtiss
Thanks for the info Kurtiss.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Thanks Larry,
I used a multi-purpose cutting bit with the Dremel router attachment (it's what I have). I would use the Dremel #650 1/8" straight router bit if I was going to do it again. I cut 50% into the panel thickness and took it slow.
Kurtiss
 
Kurtiss,

I heard about your GT-R build in Southern California. I live up in N. Cal in Tracy. I am interested in seeing the progress of your GT-R. I am interested in building this kit as well. I am trying to decide between the type 65 Daytona group from factory five vs. the GT-R. I don't know what the cost differences maybe? Let me know if you might be Ok with visitor to see first hand your build?

Jim
 

Kurtiss

Member
Hi Jim & Paul,

I live in Palmdale (north of LA). You're both welcome to visit my build and see the car firsthand.

The Type 65 Daytona coupe is a beautiful car. I have been to the Factory Five gatherings at Huntington Beach and the cars are really nice. The build difference is the FF tubular space frames/sheetmetal verses the Superlite aluminum semi-monocoque chassis with billet suspension components. Superlite chassis are very strong, light and stiff. Also, I have heard that the RCR/Superlite fiberglass bodies are superior in mold, fit and finish. The GT-R is a large car (80" wide and 180" overall length). Lots of room to put things and fairly roomy inside.

Kurtiss
 
Hi Jim & Paul,

I live in Palmdale (north of LA). You're both welcome to visit my build and see the car firsthand.

The Type 65 Daytona coupe is a beautiful car. I have been to the Factory Five gatherings at Huntington Beach and the cars are really nice. The build difference is the FF tubular space frames/sheetmetal verses the Superlite aluminum semi-monocoque chassis with billet suspension components. Superlite chassis are very strong, light and stiff. Also, I have heard that the RCR/Superlite fiberglass bodies are superior in mold, fit and finish. The GT-R is a large car (80" wide and 180" overall length). Lots of room to put things and fairly roomy inside.

Kurtiss
Kurtiss thanks for the reply. I’m gonna send you a private message right now.
 
Hi Kurtiss, How is the GT-R build coming along? I am curious how much further your build is. Work responsibilities have kept me from ordering and committing to a build as of yet. I did manage to see Cam's SLC in San Diego several weeks after visiting you. Both the GT-R and SLC are amazing, would like to build both.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Hi Jim,
I haven't posted in awhile but I'm making headway. I removed the engine/trans and worked on the fuel vent, reprogramed the Infinity Box, had a 180 deg exhaust built, modified the fuel tank with an internal fuel pump, relocated the oil cooler, sent the transaxle to Ron McCall for new gears, insulated the firewall and added a double pain rear window behind the driver/passenger. I will begin to post photos and info soon.

I agree, both the SLC and GT-R kits are amazing and not for the faint of heart. Let me know what you decide to do.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Hi y’all!
Yes, I have been working on my car but haven’t posted any photos for a long time. It’s been a busy holiday season then all of our wonderful plans to go the LA County Air Show, Grand Prix of Long Beach, Chino Planes of Fame Air Show and the Indy 500 time trials were cancelled due to corona virus threat. We are taking this threat very seriously and staying home. This gives me the time to catch up on my posts and work on my car.

I sincerely hope you and your loved ones stay safe and healthy.
 

Kurtiss

Member
What’s that smell?
To capture the fuel vapors and add a layer of safety I installed a JAZ Products external fuel tip-over valve, a II MUCH VSR fuel vent and a II MUCH bulkhead fitting with a sintered bronze vent filter at the bottom of the vehicle. I machined a bracket so the II Much VSR fuel vent would clear the rack & pinion assembly. Note: I may need to relocate the vent filter when I install the wheel wells – stay tuned.

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Kurtiss

Member
That’s what is so great about this build, I’m learning and doing things I’ve only heard about but never experienced.

Wheel alignment – after adjusting the shocks to give a good ride height I used the string method to set the toe-in and QuickTrick alignment tools to set the castor and camber. I adjusted the height with a 4” clearance from the chassis to the ground at the front A-arm and set a 5” clearance at the rear A-arm then adjusted the rear camber and toe-in. In the front, a few modifications were necessary. The front A-arm upper Heim joints were replaced with QA1 PCYMR10T (High Misalign Chromoly Heim Joint Rod Ends 5/8-18 RH Male) to achieve the proper thread engagement when all adjustments were made. Also, the steering rod ends were too short to achieve thread engagement when the toe-in is adjusted. RCR supplied new extended rod ends but each steering rod had to be shortened by ¾” to make them fit. This was a rough alignment and the final alignment will be done by a professional shop prior to taking it out on the road.

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Kurtiss

Member
My desired changes to the electrical system programing was first mentioned in post #136. I sent the desired changes to Jay Harris of Infinity Box and within a few weeks he sent me the updated code and reprogramming box. It took 5 minutes to upload the new program. Easy-Peasy. Thank you Jay!

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Kurtiss

Member
Hi Larry,
The Infinity Box system was part of the car purchase. There was an issue between RCR and Infinity Box but they worked it out and I received my electrical system a year and a half after I took possession of the car.

I like the Infinity Box concept, clean looking install and ease of troubleshooting but I felt limited on the number of circuits available. I could have added another power cell (10 more circuits) but opted to add a relay and fused circuits. I plan to do a "smoke check" soon (put power to it for the first time) and begin checking out the switch inputs and power outputs.

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