Kurtiss' GT-R

Kurtiss

Member
Hi Lee,
For all the fiberglass work and bonding I'm using the West System Epoxy Resin. For the vinyl ester fiberglass work I'm mixing the 105 epoxy resin with the 205 fast cure hardener. When bonding (including the light rings) I mix in the 404 high-density filler. Per the West Systems pamphlet, "The 404 is a thickening additive developed for max physical properties in hardware bonding. It can also be used for filleting and gap-filling where maximum strength is necessary."

This stuff is fun to work with but you have to work quickly since it will "kick-off" before you know it. I would recommend using the 206 slow-cure hardener to give you more time.
 

Kurtiss

Member
With the rear window installed, the expansion and overflow tanks could not be installed on the firewall so I decided to place them as high as possible on the square tubing. This location also provides good access to service the tanks.

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Kurtiss

Member
I bonded on the light mounting rings (Hella P/N 157659007) and assemble everything. The headlight bezel was trimmed to fit snugly. I had to bond a stud to the bezel to tighten the inboard upper corner to the headlight bucket on each side.

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Kurtiss

Member
The Borla Eightstack is not a “fly by wire” system and requires a throttle cable. The cable sleeve was trimmed to 76” in length with a ¼” diameter barrel connection at the Eightstack and a ball joint connection at the throttle pedal. I machined a new adapter between the pedal and ball joint since the ball joint came with a #10 thread (not ¼” need on the Tilton adapter). I made the plastic cable stop to minimize interference with my foot.

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Kurtiss

Member
With the new firewall/window assembly, a large gap at the bulkhead was filled with a ½” thick, 2” wide plate.

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Kurtiss

Member
Hella modular lights have a flat spot on the bottom for the installation of a socket/bulb assembly. I installed a set of sockets and amber LED light bulbs into my fog lights so they can double as a turn indicators. The rubber socket (Dorman 84803) and 194 amber bulb (Philips LED 194A) fit nicely into the 90mm housing and do not interfere with the bulb.

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Kurtiss

Member
I'm also working on locating the heater supply/return lines to the radiator lines at the front of the car along with a heater control valve and an engine heater bypass.

Also began installation of a Stroud fire suppression system. Next I'll begin assembling the axles and back end of the car for fit check and installation of the exhaust system.
 
Can someone give me the part number maybe from Summit Racing for the clutch alignment tool using a Graz 6 sp trans I imagine they are all the same
 

Kurtiss

Member
Joel and Larry,
Do not purchase the T10097 clutch alignment tool - it is the wrong one and will not fit the pilot bearing. See my post #34 and look at the attachment, page 4, for the correct part number.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Joel and Larry,
Do not purchase the T10097 clutch alignment tool - it is the wrong one and will not fit the pilot bearing. See my post #34 and look at the attachment, page 4, for the correct part number.
Thanks Kurtiss, appreciated the advice.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Hi Kurtiss, thanks again for responding. I plan on using an LS engine and see your are using a Coyote. Would I still need to use the clutch alignment tool you are recommending? I see in one of your supporting documents you state the one in the manual is incorrect. Just wanted to double check on this.

Thanks,
Joel
 

Kurtiss

Member
Good question Joel.
I assume it's the same but you know how that goes... The main difference is the pilot bearing with a 15mm ID.
You may want to wait until you have the transaxle, flywheel/bearing and clutch before you purchase the alignment tool.
 
Kurtiss all I can say is wow what a great job on the instruction manual for the Graz trans, it answered every question I had going in Thanks a ton for doing such a great job.
 

Kurtiss

Member
The replica tail lights and buckets from H Craft Customs fit perfectly. After cutting out the holes and fit checking the lights, I bolted in the supplied buckets to hold the assemblies together then bonded the buckets to the rear clip. After they cured I trimmed and sanded the inner lip then assembled the lights. As you can see, the lights fits flush with the body and they look great.

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Kurtiss

Member
Thanks, Larry!
The more fiberglass and bonding work I do, the more “daring” I become. If I screw up, I can grind it out, clean it, glass or bond it again.

The old saying: “Hammer to shape, file to fit, paint to hide!” comes to mind.
 
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