Larry, my post #49 shows a Process & Instrumentation Diagram (P&ID) of my fuel system components and layout.
As you know, there are multiple ways to supply fuel to the engine that is efficient, continuous and quiet. H Craft Customs modified his fuel tank for an in-tank fuel system that is efficient, quiet and very compact. You may consider a hybrid using an external filter and fuel pump to supply fuel to the swirl tank yet the swirl tank contains the high pressure pump (see Fuelab 60711).
I'm months away from starting the car. I have an exhaust system to build, an electrical system to install, brakes and clutch to fill and bleed, etc. I have a lot to do and that's what makes this challenging and fun.
The fuel sending unit and gauges came from RCR but they do not supply any fittings, hoses, pumps, or filters. The gauges from RCR are built by Speed Hut and they seem to be very good quality and come with all the sending units and wiring.
Had a great time with my family at the Grand Prix of Long Beach. This is our sixth year working for Race Management on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. My other hobby is photography and the photo ops at the race are plentiful. In 2011 I took photos lots of photos including the American Lemans series. At the time I didn’t know I was taking photos of the car that I would be building a replica of.
I have been working on my car but haven’t posted any photos for a long time. It’s been a busy holiday season so I’ll begin posting over the next couple of weeks. I'll also be posting info and photos for the shifter, exhaust, dash defrost ducting, wiper motor, and electrical.
I installed the diffuser and machined two standoffs. The front edge of the diffuser is bolted to the top to the cross member. The diffuser was trimmed to clear the ball ends/support structure.
This is exciting! I’ve been working on a prototype shifter with Jim Cunningham, owner of Brandwood Cars LLC, who builds the Cable-SHiFT shifters supplied as original equipment with the GT-R and SLC. Jim has made a huge improvement by redesigning the shifter to lower the overall height by 1-1/2” and reposition it to the left (drivers) side. It feels right and looks right! Using the same shifter cables that are delivered with the car, the shifter can be carefully bolted to the tunnel (be careful not to penetrate the fuel tank) but a spacer will be needed on the driver’s side so the internal bell crank clears the tunnel. I machined a ½” spacer and carefully bolted it to the tunnel. You can contact Jim for pricing and availability at http://www.cableshift.com.
The photos show the shifter and also a gate (not supplied with the shifter). I machined a shift gate and installed a spring loaded plunger to reduce the chance of accidently shifting into reverse. The gate works surprisingly well (in the garage) and makes it easy to correctly engage all gears. I’ll provide more info after the car is on the road.
I contacted Ron McCall and installed one of his rear bumpers. It’s a quality fiberglass piece and compliments the diffuser, exhaust outlets and rear wing supports. I bonded a couple of angle pieces to the bumper and installed the same on the rear clip. The plate in-between is slotted at the attachment points to allow for adjustment.
I received the Infinity Box electrical system from RCR in December, Yay! My Infinity Box system is the 20-Circuit universal wiring system and preprogrammed for the Superlite SL-C. The system came with the inLINK RF Control Module pre-installed, two remote controls and an installation guide.
I spent the first part of the year reading the installation guide, working on wiring schematics and installing the system. I used Solidworks Electrical to draw the wiring schematics below.
The GT-R is a little different than the SL-C so I’ve asked Jay Lewis of Infinity Box to make a few programming changes for the fog lights and power requirements for the FAST engine controllers. Wire assignments are attached.
Changes are as follows:
FOG LIGHTS to be controlled by dash mounted switch. Need to add input A15 (Yellow-Green) for Mastercell to control output B4 (Lt-Blue) from Powercell 1.
FAN 2 is controlled by the FAST XFI module. Need to add input A10 (Blue-Green) for Mastercell to control output A10 (Tan) from Powercell 1.
Need separate output for backup lights, fuel sender, fuel pump relays. Need to add IGN trigger to control output B4 (Light-Blue) for Powercell 2. Block when Security is ON
Need separate output for alternator. Need to add IGN trigger to control output A7 (Tan) for Powercell 2.
Kurtiss great job on the Wiring Schematic I would assume most of us can use your layout to wire the GTR with a little variation when it comes to power plants. What I really like about your post is the clear pictures you take makes my job easier.
Thank you Larry! Yes, I posted the schematics so others can see what I'm doing and to use on their own build.
Attached is a list of electrical components and hardware I used. Instead of Weatherpack connectors, I used Deutsch connectors throughout due to their small size and ease of assembly. Also, Click Bonds are great for attaching wiring and other items to the fiberglass or aluminum body panels when you don’t want to drill a hole. I fabricated my own Click Bonds by tacking a large fender washer and countersunk screw together, see photo.
I used Techflex Flexo® F6 FR flame retardant self-wrapping split braided sleeving on the wire bundles.
Hi Larry (I sent you a PM)
The bumper is available (hope it still is) from Kirk at AmeriSport Industries. You can contact him through the website https://www.amerisportindustries.com/contact. I purchased mine last November.