Kurtiss' GT-R

Kurtiss a quick question on the Graz install it appears RCR does not include the alignment pins from their engine to Graz adapter plate I assume you may have made them yourself
 

Steven Lobel

Member
GT40s Supporter
Kurtiss a quick question on the Graz install it appears RCR does not include the alignment pins from their engine to Graz adapter plate I assume you may have made them yourself
Mine came with everything. They had my motor at the shop and assembled the whole thing, then split it for pallet and shipping. There was an oops at the factory and the motor/transaxle were not put in the car. Fran shipped them separate bolted to a pallet, nicely done.
 

Kurtiss

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GT40s Supporter
Larry, my car was shipped with the transaxle and engine adapter plate. After receiving the throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch, ring gear and starter, I was missing the following hardware:
  • Adapter to engine bolts (McMaster Carr)
  • Starter bolts
  • Flywheel bolts
  • Clutch bolts
  • Throwout bearing bolts
  • Engine dowels (sleeve guides) (need 2 each)
You can purchase the dowels and bolts from your local VW dealer. All the part numbers and quantities should be listed in my post #34.
 
Kurtiss on page 6 of your Graz install you talk about O-Rings for the throw out bearing my kit was not shipped with any O-rings and where exactly will these O-Rings go, the throw out bearing already has an O-Ring installed is it the two indent grooves one round and one oval on the mating service of the input shaft.
 

Kurtiss

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GT40s Supporter
Hi Larry,
Yes, in the mating surface (see attached image, yellow areas). I'm sorry, I do not know the part numbers of the o-rings.

Release Bearing 1.jpg
 

Kurtiss

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GT40s Supporter
Hi Larry, I'll be posting updates soon.

This project reminds me of when I built my '86 Jeep CJ7 for off-road adventures and a little rock climbing. JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket!

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Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
Hi Larry,
The GT-R does come with a fuel tank, swirl tank, fuel sending unit and filler check valve but does not include pumps, filters, pressure regulators, hoses, fittings, etc. You can get a smokin' deal on a Superlite SLC Fuel System Kit from Rufus that's posted in the Garage Sale thread or build your own.

My Borla Eightstack system specifies 47 lbs/hr @ 39 psi.
 
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Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
I installed a set of Hella side marker lights (P/N 008138821) at the front and rear of the car. The marker lights come with a template for cutting a hole in the body panel. I then used a router attachment on my Dremel to cut a recess into the body to provide a professional look.

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Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
To simplify the heater hose routing, I decided to weld 5/8” nipples to the radiator lines at the front of the car and install the Vintage Air electronically controlled heater control valve. This leaves more room at the engine compartment for other items. I’ll install a heater bypass hose to keep the water flowing at the engine. The existing heater lines in the tunnel will be removed later.

A03B6824.jpg A03B7625.jpg
 

Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
I installed a Stroud 5lb FE-36 fire suppression system. I located the bottle behind the passenger seat and routed one line to the dash and the other to the engine compartment. I do not plan to race the car - just wanted a little extra insurance. I will also mount a portable fire extinguisher near the driver’s seat later in the build.

A03B7615.jpg A03B7613.jpg A03B7610.jpg
 

Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
My good friend, Rufus Mathews, mentioned that my brake Residual Pressure valves may be installed backwards. The arrows normally point in the direction of flow but the arrows stamped on my valves were opposite of those of other valves of the same design. I replaced the Superlite supplied Residual Pressure valves with Wilwood valves that are clearly marked. Thanks Rufus!

A03B7627.jpg
 
To simplify the heater hose routing, I decided to weld 5/8” nipples to the radiator lines at the front of the car and install the Vintage Air electronically controlled heater control valve. This leaves more room at the engine compartment for other items. I’ll install a heater bypass hose to keep the water flowing at the engine. The existing heater lines in the tunnel will be removed later.

View attachment 95418 View attachment 95419
Just a heads up about your 5/8" heater lines tapped into the radiator pipes. You will definitely have poor circulation with them mounted at a 90 degree. I looked into doing the same and was warned against it. Andy did the same but his are mounted at an angle to the rad pipes and placed strategically at bends where the flow will be somewhat forced into the heater nipples.

Here is Andys picture....second one in the post. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/h-craft-gt-r.49926/page-2#post-506587
 
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Kurtiss

Member
GT40s Supporter
Ken and Ian,
I appreciate your input. Your right, it's not an efficient way to obtain flow through the heater core and mounting the nipples at an angle would provide better flow. I live in the southwest and I'm not as concerned about heating the interior as I am cooling. In the future, if the current configuration doesn't provide the heat necessary to keep the passengers comfortable during the winter months, I'll change it.

Kurtiss
 
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