Louis' RCR MKII Build

Louis

Supporter
The adventure has already begun but here are a few pictures of the start.

The "Forty", as it's known in the garage, is nesseled between a restored 1961 Renault Beach Car, my rebuilt 1983 Lotus Esprit and you can just see the nose of a Gen V Dodge Viper, affectionately known as the Torque Monster.

We quickly noticed the paint on the chassis did not stick. This RCR was to be a turn-key by the previous RCR client. So that meant a complete removal of the paint. I've been putting this off for a month and found other things to work on like the dash but I had to do it. It ended up not being a bad job. Aviation Paint Remover and a high pressure washer took care of it. Now I need to get the aluminum to a good consistent finish then parts will start going on!

I'll undercoat the car and also the wheel wells for protection and sound deadening.

I live in Starkville, MS about two hours from Birmingham, AL. Close enough for me to drive over once a month to the Barber Vintage Motorcycle Museum where I'm a volunteer docent. At the museum they have several RCR bodies. I'm standing next to a MKI.

The build is going to be a lot of fun. I've rebuilt a lot of cars but never built one so the MKII project will be a new challenge.

This group is amazing. I've read many of your build posts with tips and great advice. Expect many questions from me.

Hope I attached the pictures correctly??

All the best,
Louis
 

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Louis

Supporter
Re: Louis' RCR MKII Build Chassis Primer?

Is a self-etching primer required when apply an undercoating like Line-X, Rhino Lining, etc. on the chassis? I want to coat the bottom and wheel wells with an undercoating for sound absorption and protection.

I assume that you would, but just checking. Tried calling and emailing Rhino Lining but never got a response.

Thank you!
Louis
 

Michael

Supporter
Hi Louis, looking forward to following your build. Nice group shot and nice shop...wish I had that much room...:)

Museum looks like something I need to visit at some point...;)
 

Louis

Supporter
It's been awhile and my build is slow but it's coming along. A lot of time was spent removing the old paint and primer then sanding, sanding and more sanding to remove old sanding marks. I wanted a nice even finish for the car. Not polished but more brushed. Pretty sure it was the glue from the clear protective covering that loosened the paint from the primer.

I primed the under body and wheel wells for the undercoating. I test fit components to make sure all is going to fit before permanent attached.

The newer cars have a different AC system and plumbing that uses AC rubber hoses not the pre-bent metal tubes that connect to the condenser as shown in the manual. Has anyone had any issues with the hoses? The Vintage Air package came with 90s that will be crimped on the rubber hoses. I was just wondering what others have done.
 

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Louis

Supporter
Is there a site of historical photos of the G40 MKII? My car came with cutouts on the front clip for better access to brake reservoirs. This was to have quicker maintenance during pit stops. I would like to see how the reservoirs are mounted. You can see the cutouts in the picture just in front of the windscreen

Bob Woods in his build, "Tornado G40 in Texas" page 3 shows a picture of an original GT40 with the reservoirs mounted inside the cockpit and the caps coming out the top of the bulkhead.

It would be nice to see how they are mounted inside.

Appreciate the help!
Louis
 

Louis

Supporter
Hi All,

It's been awhile and I apologize for not posting pictures. Honestly, I haven't been able to accomplish much on the car over the past year. I did install the AC system as per Rick's installation. That was a nice clean install.

After next week I should be able to spend more time at the shop and the main goal is to get the body on the chassis before it begins to warp a little. The spider has always been supported while off the chassis.

The first step is getting the suspension installed. I do have the floor pan set at a level height of 5" front to rear. The front suspension has not been to difficult except for grinding down washers for a snug fit (any tips on grinding down washers?).

Here's my issue. On the rear, the long bolt that goes through the bottom of the hub and attaches the lower control arm to the hub appears to be too short? If I install all 4 safety washers that protect the heim joints and the lower damper connection then the bolt is not long enough to thread into the lower radius arm link.

The RCR manual clearly shows and also states all safety washers should be in place around the lower control arm heim joints and the lower damper. Looking at my photos before I took the rolling chassis apart they show no safety washers around the lower damper where it connects at the bottom. Using just flat washers on either side of the damper the long bolt will have enough threads to screw into the lower radius arm link.

Does anyone know if all 4 safety washers are used on that lower long bolt at the rear or just flat washers for the damper? Guess I could always order a 1/2" longer bolt.

On other parts of the chassis I cut out access panels for the fuel tank's tubing and wiring. Worked on the dash but will have to wait until I get the doors installed before I can do much more. I got the snake exhaust for a 351W and they look so cool. Since my car will be patterned after the Ken Miles car P1015 I've been very fortunate the folks at the Carroll Shelby Museum have been taking plenty of pictures of the original 1015 for me.

Always appreciative of your help and insights,
Louis

RCR GT40 MKII
 

Louis

Supporter
Wheel Centering in Front Clip

When I mounted the front clip the aesthetics of the wheel not being centered in the arch is not good. So I took all the washers out, except for the heim bearing washers, so I could move the top and lower arms as much as possible while checking for proper caster angle. Still the wheel is not even close in the center of the arch.

When I got the car RCR had drill/tapped the holes for the spyder (I have the rollbar too). With the spyder mounted in place the front clip butts up against the spyder and can not go any further rearward. The front suspension can't go any further forward and maintain caster angle. So the wheel is too far towards the rear in the arch.

Appreciate your insights.
Louis
 
Wheel Centering in Front Clip

When I mounted the front clip the aesthetics of the wheel not being centered in the arch is not good. So I took all the washers out, except for the heim bearing washers, so I could move the top and lower arms as much as possible while checking for proper caster angle. Still the wheel is not even close in the center of the arch.

When I got the car RCR had drill/tapped the holes for the spyder (I have the rollbar too). With the spyder mounted in place the front clip butts up against the spyder and can not go any further rearward. The front suspension can't go any further forward and maintain caster angle. So the wheel is too far towards the rear in the arch.

Appreciate your insights.
Louis
Louis. Where does the very front of the bottom of your spider sit in relation to the “spare tire” well? Is it flush with that well edge, or does it sit back ~3/4”? - Alan
 

Louis

Supporter
Louis. Where does the very front of the bottom of your spider sit in relation to the “spare tire” well? Is it flush with that well edge, or does it sit back ~3/4”? - Alan
Allen,

Pretty sure it sits back but will double check at lunch.

Thank you!
Louis
 

Louis

Supporter
Just because the spider was attached to the chassis at the factory, don't assume that it's correct.
Ron
Hi All,

I believe it Ron. The spyder can definitely go back more. There is clearance for the spyder to go another 3/4" before it contacts the roll bar. I've attached a few pictures. Not the best picture but the spyder lip is definitely too close to the spare tire well.

Since this car was to be a turn-key for a previous customer I never knew how far RCR took the build into suspension/body alignment? When someone receives a project from RCR does it come with chassis holes drilled/tapped for the body panels? The pins were mounted and several holes were drilled for the door hinges. Holes were also drilled along the chassis where the pontoon cover is mounted. Is this normal for a delivered roller?

The final goal is the P1015!
WheelNotCentered.jpg
SpyderTooFarForward.jpg

Thanks Everyone!
Louis
 

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On my mk1 the spider was at least 3/4” further back. With that the rockers need to move back. I had to trim the lower portion of the rocker panels to eliminate some of the front edge. This allowed the rear of those to be at the 52 or 54mm from the trailing edge of the chassis.
 

Louis

Supporter
I appreciate everyone's input into my issues. In talking with Alan I have a much clearer understanding of what's going on with my car.

Also must thank Alan for his description of what's it's like to drive a finished GT40. Even over the phone I could feel the adrenaline in his voice.

Thanks All!
Louis
 

Louis

Supporter
Hi Gale!

I never thought of that but now that I really look at it ....

The rockers came bolted on the way you see them in the pictures. I'll take a closer look at them tonight. If they are backwards I'll just have to laugh some more.

Louis
 
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