This isn't the place to share your feelings Fran. Save those for your wife.
Mazda 20 B engine in SL-C
- Thread starter Garry Buzzelli
- Start date
Garry, I am so glad you are going to put a rotary engine in your SL-C! 
How about going the next step. Instead of just turbocharging your 20B Wankel, how about turbocompounding it? Turbocompounding will give you more power without having to burn any more fuel. Your parents trusted turbocompounding with their lives, so you don't have to fear that it does not work.
Here is a link to an explanation of turbocompounding: Join
All success to you,
Les
How about going the next step. Instead of just turbocharging your 20B Wankel, how about turbocompounding it? Turbocompounding will give you more power without having to burn any more fuel. Your parents trusted turbocompounding with their lives, so you don't have to fear that it does not work.
Here is a link to an explanation of turbocompounding: Join
All success to you,
Les
I will have to see how much room is in there to put another turbine in. I do have some extras from the stock motor had 2 turbos on it which are smaller ones, but I think I am going to be cramped up for room with the 4" exhaust.
Why?
Perhaps "they", whoever they are, are running an oil cooler insufficient to do the job correctly. An issue with an oil cooler is not an engine problem, it is a peripheral system problem.
The only serious issues I've heard with four-rotors thus far is the cost to build them.
Logan's 4-rotor that you describe is the only one built and is essentially unproven but is currently being put through its paces in his own car. I'm not really a big fan of his three plugs per rotor as it seems to only complicate the tuning process further and limit your ecu choices. I believe he is running two ecus to get he job done. His telescoping intake setup as shown, similar to the 787b, will not fit in the SL-C without either relocating a tube of the chassis or changing the angle of the intake to fit in the existing space.
The best thing about his e-shaft is that there is a bearing journal between every rotor, hence the 5-piece design. This will undoubtedly reliably increase the rpm limit, but also the cost. That would be worth it, especailly if kept N/A. Don't think 4-rotors, or even 3-rotors for that matter, don't have torque like their little 2-rotor brethren. Not only are they increasing displacement, but adding additional torque producing levers for each rotor in the process.
Plenty of big power Ultima GTR guys running g50-50/52's with no problems.
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I looked into the 4 rotor, talking to Fran, he said it might no fit, 3 rotor is I guess not a problem.
I know I had quotes on the 4 rotor e shaft of around 10,000.00 just for that, and that's just to much, the 3 rotor I have is suppose to be from 600 up to 900 RWHP depending on fuel, boost, etc. I am more into driving it after I put it together and being dependable. Tho when finished I would like to take it to Mid Ohio, a hour away from me, and Nelson Ledges a half hour away from me a few times.
I am putting every nut, bolt, tie rod end, bracket together my self, mine was not assembled, I spent way to much money on the tranny and motor, could of built 2 fords or 2 chevy's for this price of a 3 rotor engine.
I run 6 speeds Lenco's in my pro-streeted cars, and the sequential gear box for this car was twice that.
Here is a picture of my pro street 38 Packard 2 dr coupe, twin blowers, 521 Ford, 1500 hp on pump gas, tubed, caged, fat tire car, and what it looked like when I found it in barn after 40 years, it was all wood on the inside, the doors still has original wood in them. Just tired of working with RUST, and Ohio old cars.
I know I had quotes on the 4 rotor e shaft of around 10,000.00 just for that, and that's just to much, the 3 rotor I have is suppose to be from 600 up to 900 RWHP depending on fuel, boost, etc. I am more into driving it after I put it together and being dependable. Tho when finished I would like to take it to Mid Ohio, a hour away from me, and Nelson Ledges a half hour away from me a few times.
I am putting every nut, bolt, tie rod end, bracket together my self, mine was not assembled, I spent way to much money on the tranny and motor, could of built 2 fords or 2 chevy's for this price of a 3 rotor engine.
I run 6 speeds Lenco's in my pro-streeted cars, and the sequential gear box for this car was twice that.
Here is a picture of my pro street 38 Packard 2 dr coupe, twin blowers, 521 Ford, 1500 hp on pump gas, tubed, caged, fat tire car, and what it looked like when I found it in barn after 40 years, it was all wood on the inside, the doors still has original wood in them. Just tired of working with RUST, and Ohio old cars.
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Ill see how this 3 rotor runs, supposed to be 650 rwhp, and with boost and fuel, methanol injestion up to 900, but I just want a reliable motor, take to the track once in a while etc. Should be shipping soon, had to wait a while for the housings to get powder coated to match everything else.
Just hope the tranny shows up around the same time,
Finished 1 side, my slave is on the other side, Ill make my own line up for that.
Has anybody ever filled the tubes with foam for insulation?
Just hope the tranny shows up around the same time,
Finished 1 side, my slave is on the other side, Ill make my own line up for that.
Has anybody ever filled the tubes with foam for insulation?
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How quite can you make them on the inside.
Anybody have any videos with sound inside the car driving?
Any of them quite on the inside? I have watched U tube videos, is that what I should expect as far as a sound level?
Anybody have any videos with sound inside the car driving?
Any of them quite on the inside? I have watched U tube videos, is that what I should expect as far as a sound level?
Is there any one sound deadening material better then the other?
What is the foil used around the motor area?
What is the foil used around the motor area?
Out the back of the car yes...but not from front of the engine.
Have you ever stood in front of a turbocharged car on the dyno? Turbos scream and in the SL-C, the turbo will only be a few feet behind your head.
I think I'm gaining, the motor is back from powder coaters, so its ready for assembly.
Finished the brake lines today, after a few trips to Summit Racing, I ran them in the front since my body wont fit to put the lines on the inside.
Back end is as finished as I can do till I get the motor and tranny. Ill finish the front end tomorrow, received parts today.
Here are some pics.
Finished the brake lines today, after a few trips to Summit Racing, I ran them in the front since my body wont fit to put the lines on the inside.
Back end is as finished as I can do till I get the motor and tranny. Ill finish the front end tomorrow, received parts today.
Here are some pics.
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Howard Jones
Supporter
Gary, get the steering wheel and seat in the car before you mount peddles. Getting these driver controls absolutely perfect is really, REALLY important. Go for dead and I mean DEAD on for your comfort. Line everything up with your nose as centerline. Do whatever you need to do to achieve perfection. You will thank me and yourself later.
Shifter goes last, with brake balance control and other controls such as main power switch, start button etc. If you are going to track the car these things need to be in reach with belts tight.
Shifter goes last, with brake balance control and other controls such as main power switch, start button etc. If you are going to track the car these things need to be in reach with belts tight.
I put a seat in, going to mount the steering column today. This is just a street car, want to put miles on it not like my other hot rods, 4 mpg, kinda hard to go far with it, but I did pay Gore carbon credits so my foot print isnt as big with it, ya rite.
