Hi Russ,congratulations on finishing your project,I have been watching your build for a while and its great to see the finished product,hopefully we will get to hear it oneday(post video of first track test maybe).Anyway great work and you can hold your head up high for keeping the greatest racing era alive.Cheers Leon
McLaren M8 B look alike
- Thread starter russell k
- Start date
Russell,
If you get a chance PM me your address and I will send you "Inside Track" motorsport news mag that I have. It has a reprint of Canam Glory Part2: The Bruce Mclaren and Denny Hulme Show. I will phone and see if I can get part one before I send it. I picked this stuff up at Mosport.
Dave
If you get a chance PM me your address and I will send you "Inside Track" motorsport news mag that I have. It has a reprint of Canam Glory Part2: The Bruce Mclaren and Denny Hulme Show. I will phone and see if I can get part one before I send it. I picked this stuff up at Mosport.
Dave
Howard Jones
Supporter
That's the coolest thing I've ever seen. Really.
No one will recognise me today. I have a hair do like a fast back toilet brush and a smile 10 foot wide. Have just had the car at work on a nice flat floor and set up the alignment etc. The road around work are is a quiet cul de sac so out for a spin. Man take your breath away, what a sound and I only ran it to less that 5000. The cam comes on really nice and does it boogey, its like driving a bath tube with a V8 in your back pocket. The acceleration and lift coming out of second and onto third was just awesome. I thought my brothers viper was hard out but feel sure that this is quicker..must be!
I am working on my camera mount for its first track day in a couple of weeks to share my delight.
Cheers
I am working on my camera mount for its first track day in a couple of weeks to share my delight.
Cheers
Play safe, but have fun,
Dave
Dave
Can any one come up with suggested front and rear, toe and camber angles that could be a good starting point for my car. I stringed it on saturday to the following; front 1deg toe and camber, rear 1 deg toe and 1.5 deg camber. Whilst I think I have it reasonably close, I am now going to put it on a machine and the operator was a little concerned at what I suggested. Any better ideas thanks.
You've got to start somewhere Russell.
I'm not sure what 1 deg. toe translates to in mm but I would tend to go with about 2mm total toe in for both front and rear.
For the camber, string it up as you have done and take it out to the track and find what works. Then, if you must, send it in to your alignment guy to set up bang on to the settings you find work. Remember the combined effect of caster and camber on your contact patch and alter each accordingly.
Exciting times for you!
I'm not sure what 1 deg. toe translates to in mm but I would tend to go with about 2mm total toe in for both front and rear.
For the camber, string it up as you have done and take it out to the track and find what works. Then, if you must, send it in to your alignment guy to set up bang on to the settings you find work. Remember the combined effect of caster and camber on your contact patch and alter each accordingly.
Exciting times for you!
+1. & I assume that you mean negative camber, not positive. Unless the alignment man has previous experience with a 'very' similar car then the best guide is you!
Where his equipment could be of assistance to you would be if you were to adjust your toe-in/out by one turn & note the amount of change. Apply this to all the adjustments you have-write them down in that little black book all racers should have so that when you do adjust at the track you will have an accurate idea of what your doing.
Where his equipment could be of assistance to you would be if you were to adjust your toe-in/out by one turn & note the amount of change. Apply this to all the adjustments you have-write them down in that little black book all racers should have so that when you do adjust at the track you will have an accurate idea of what your doing.
Not wishing to get anal about my `toe` but rounding out our measurement on that 500mm dia section of the tyre and measuring from front to back, 8 mm is 1 degree +- so by Russ`s note, 2mm would be 1/4 of a degree. When I say 8mm toe in, I get strange looks. I realize that these will only be starting points but I would like to be some where rightish first.
Many thanks for the help.
Russell
Many thanks for the help.
Russell
Russel, hi mate i would concure with Russ a couple of mm toe in on the front, but i would sugest a more conservitive 0 toe on the rear to start with, it all depends on how twitchy the rear is under power, and untill you get used to it i recomend the cautious aproach.
i dont no what type or size tyres your running so a start around 2-3 deg neg on the front should put you somewhere close to start and 1-2 deg neg on the rear, only a pyro will help you find the sweet spot.
and dont forget the all important "little black book" write ever little change down, enjoy the fun of setting it up,and if you run at Puke for some track test time beware the bump on the apex over the hill to start line, stay out around a metre.its a shocker.
and youll know when you've got it right, its when you can go round the sweeper flat in top.:thumbsup:
regards John
i dont no what type or size tyres your running so a start around 2-3 deg neg on the front should put you somewhere close to start and 1-2 deg neg on the rear, only a pyro will help you find the sweet spot.
and dont forget the all important "little black book" write ever little change down, enjoy the fun of setting it up,and if you run at Puke for some track test time beware the bump on the apex over the hill to start line, stay out around a metre.its a shocker.
and youll know when you've got it right, its when you can go round the sweeper flat in top.:thumbsup:
regards John
John / Jac Mac I have managed to get hold of the set up sheet for a Mclaren M12 and its quite interesting. Front 4.5 degree castor, zero camber and zero toe with the rear set as, zero camber, 3/8inch total toe in and 5 degree caster. Now just to be pedantic, when they say 3/16ths on each rear wheel, that`s the total measurement from one side of the rim to the other..correct ?
When I look at my car set up with 1.5 degree camber and 1 degree toe on the rear, it looks excessive so will re set.
Just had the car photgraphed today alongside the Brian`s M12 and it was interesting at the size comparisons. My car looks smaller but actually has a 50mm longer wheel base and is just a bit narrower accross those FAT rear tyres. Both are painted`Mclaren orange` and both are a different shade!!
When I look at my car set up with 1.5 degree camber and 1 degree toe on the rear, it looks excessive so will re set.
Just had the car photgraphed today alongside the Brian`s M12 and it was interesting at the size comparisons. My car looks smaller but actually has a 50mm longer wheel base and is just a bit narrower accross those FAT rear tyres. Both are painted`Mclaren orange` and both are a different shade!!
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Russ 3/16 toe in is the distance off the string from straight ahead position ie 0 toe on each wheel, seems a bit excesive but if thats what worked then thats what you should go by, that is of course if your suspension is an identical configuration to the orig.
for a comparison the original specs for the P lmp that i'm putting together are 2mm toe out 5 deg castor 2 deg neg on front, 1mm toe in 4 deg castor and 1 deg neg on rear with 12 inch fronts and 14 inch rears.
car looks absolutely fab in pics mate, you should be very proud, cant wait to see it in the flesh.
regards john
for a comparison the original specs for the P lmp that i'm putting together are 2mm toe out 5 deg castor 2 deg neg on front, 1mm toe in 4 deg castor and 1 deg neg on rear with 12 inch fronts and 14 inch rears.
car looks absolutely fab in pics mate, you should be very proud, cant wait to see it in the flesh.
regards john
Hi Russ
I would understand that the be the measurment across the outside of the tyres, not the rim. I.E. you put a straight edges across the face of the wheels and measure the difference between the width at the front and back of the tyre tread.
But maybe your source makes it clearer, that it is at the rim, so then ignore this.
Cheers
Fred w b
Folks
The moment of truth arrived today, put the car on the scales and gee whiz it weighed in at 720 kg all up, so much for my estimate of 630 to 650kg so I geuss I am on a another diet now. Lucky I am only competing against my self. If I was anal and blessed with unlimited funds, 3 piece wheels would easily save 40 kg, otherwise apart from a lightweight body we are at that weight.
I have ended up with an alignment set up as follows.
Front 5 deg caster, 1 deg camber and 2 mm toe in. Rear 1 deg camber, 0 caster 2mm toe in as a starting point. I may end up putting in a little rear caster.
Off to the track in 2 weeks.
Cheers
The moment of truth arrived today, put the car on the scales and gee whiz it weighed in at 720 kg all up, so much for my estimate of 630 to 650kg so I geuss I am on a another diet now. Lucky I am only competing against my self. If I was anal and blessed with unlimited funds, 3 piece wheels would easily save 40 kg, otherwise apart from a lightweight body we are at that weight.
I have ended up with an alignment set up as follows.
Front 5 deg caster, 1 deg camber and 2 mm toe in. Rear 1 deg camber, 0 caster 2mm toe in as a starting point. I may end up putting in a little rear caster.
Off to the track in 2 weeks.
Cheers
BUGGER.
It appears that I have upset Ron Dennis... Have just had a call from the Mclaren trust to come have coffee and a chat. Seems that they want me to remove the Mclaren name from the car as its a bit sensitive with copy right and all that stuff. Amaizing how far the influence stretches but hey I kind of expected it. Question is what to call it. McKeach has the same number of letters so fits the same space, maybe then I could change the kiwi symbol for a turkey as it does kinda piss me off a bit. One other club member reckons they hassled him over the color of his M6 but I cant see how they can do that unless he calls it Mclaren Orange. I suppose I shall just have to drink my coffee and agree.
So from now when in liturgas (legal) company its a CAN AM replica....
Cheers
It appears that I have upset Ron Dennis... Have just had a call from the Mclaren trust to come have coffee and a chat. Seems that they want me to remove the Mclaren name from the car as its a bit sensitive with copy right and all that stuff. Amaizing how far the influence stretches but hey I kind of expected it. Question is what to call it. McKeach has the same number of letters so fits the same space, maybe then I could change the kiwi symbol for a turkey as it does kinda piss me off a bit. One other club member reckons they hassled him over the color of his M6 but I cant see how they can do that unless he calls it Mclaren Orange. I suppose I shall just have to drink my coffee and agree.
So from now when in liturgas (legal) company its a CAN AM replica....
Cheers
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. They probably had a a go at Dick as well, hence the ' McBearen ' tag. Hope you charged them Auckland rates for the coffee.Russ,
I thought something like that might happen. I would still keep the kiwi. So it's a McKeach M8K MKI. The only one of it's kind.
Dave
I thought something like that might happen. I would still keep the kiwi. So it's a McKeach M8K MKI. The only one of it's kind.
Dave
