McLaren replica build base on a Manta

[Jim Craik]

Terry,

Your work of art is getting better and better, what a beauty!

By the way, there is a local garage here that has what looks like a McLaren M8 front clip up in their rafters.

I have been meaning to check if they want to sell it.

I always loved the M8, I was lucky enough to see all the Can Am races at Laguna and some at Riverside. I was also there for the famous "Cannon in the rain" race! As I recall, that was the only race that the M8A lost.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Yep, as so happens in the rain, the underdog gets the bone.

I would have loved to fit a real M8 body on the front of this thing, but the proportions under the dash, and at the front suspension were different by enough inches to prevent that from happening. I need to ensure the wife can get into this thing when it's ready to rumble, so those differences will be worthwhile.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

A bit more progress now that the summer heat facilitates the fiberglass hardening process. Finally eliminated that hermaphrodite sculpturing over the wheel arches and produced something more aligned with the M8 series.

 

[Randy V]

Amazing progress Terry.. You have come such a very long way with this car.. It will be a work of art!

 

[Leon]

Hi Terry, good to see some more progress. Are you just Fabing the class as you go?? That makes for a lot of finishing work but it seems to be going the right way and looking less like a Manta with every every stoke of the resin brush. Looks good man Keep it up. Cheers Leon.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Yes. Either way, make the buck, or make the body, is a lot of work. Finishing doesn't bother me too bad, and is actually the fun part once the
'shape' is finalized.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

I think I've finally gotten to the point that I've got the body "shape" finished. This evening I finished shaping the driver's side door. What little I know about NACA ducts, these are way too deep, but rather than make them most efficient, I kept with the original McLaren dimensions (well, close...I did make them only 8" deep rather than the original 10" deep ducts.

Now down to the detail, fitment, and finish. Then I can get back to the more fun stuff...getting it powered up.

 

[Jack]

Wow! Looking good Ox.

 

[Jim Craik]

Terry,

Great job, looking good!

I no longer see a Manta, now I see a M8!

I even like the way the windshield works with the rest of the body shape. I think if McLaren chose to convert an open Can Am car for the street, their windshield would look very similar to what you have.

 

[Pat]

Great work Terry. As far as the NACA ducts go, you can buy some from Pegasus Racing or a number of other suppliers that are preformed to an outlet. That's what I used on my racecar and they worked like a champ.
Now all you need is one of those honkin' TRACO Chevy motors with 18 inch velocity stacks!

 

[Troy]

Now all you need is one of those honkin' TRACO Chevy motors with 18 inch velocity stacks!

Or just an LS2

Looks great, I really like the body work you're doing on this!

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Nice adaptation Troy! I've fabricated a similar setup, only much smaller (48mm) with 2.5" dia, 12" long stacks, on a "home-made" manifold and salvage ITB setup.

 

[Troy]

I know, I almost copied it! This set-up is adapted from a 392 Hemi. (Yes, I need to shorten the stacks by about 6" or so). By the way, what ever became of the cross-over headers you made?

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Still have them, and can use them IF I can relocate some coolant components. With this very low rear deck, sticking a surge tank above the highest level of water in the heads is a challenge.

 

[Charles J. Rivera]

Terry,

Periodically, I check in on your progress. You've done an outstanding job! I notice your FG panel, over the engine/headers, is close. How will you get the excess heat out before melting/burning the FG ? Pipe wrap insulation will help some, but it's going to get real hot under that FG cover with a high HP engine.

Best regards,

CJR

 

[Fred W Ballinger]

With this very low rear deck, sticking a surge tank above the highest level of water in the heads is a challenge.

How about you mount a small, good looking vertical tube type tank on the roll bar a little above / through the rear deck?

Below is what I plan to use, note shown with very rough mock up pipework/chassis

Cheers

Fred W B

 

[Fred W Ballinger]

Re header clearance to rear deck, not that it helps asthetics at all, this is a detail I photographed on an early Mclaren.

Cheers

Fred W B

 

[Mark]

I wonder if the bodywork burnt away before they decided to cut it out? This is what I love about race cars of the period. You can look back at it all and really see how idea's were brought to life through on track experience.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Terry,

Periodically, I check in on your progress. You've done an outstanding job! I notice your FG panel, over the engine/headers, is close. How will you get the excess heat out before melting/burning the FG ? Pipe wrap insulation will help some, but it's going to get real hot under that FG cover with a high HP engine.

Best regards,

CJR

Good question Charles. This has me concerned since I started this configuration. My plan is to, of course, insulate the underside as much as is possible. I have about 4" of clearance, so I figure a good insulative barrier is about 1" thick, and I will duct the side scoops to blow air through the gap between the bodywork, and the headers. Hopefully, at high output levels, the air movement, plus insulation will provide enough protection.

A worst case scenario is the use of expanded steel, or other medium, that I can paint to replace the FG if things don't work out as expected.

 

[Jack]

Ox, if you have 4" or so of space a bit of gold foil will do wonders.
Pegasus Racing sells it.