My RCR "DPE-962X" 8500 RPM -1500HP Engine Build *lots of pics*

Perry

New Member
#1
Greetings My GT40 Friends,

My name is Perry

I am new to the GT40 community and have been just following threads for a while. There are a lot of great personalities on this forum from reading posts and am happy to join and contribute in any way I can.

I will be going to Fran's shop at RCR very soon to have a chat about his 962.

Here are the goodies for my 962 project "DPE 962X" and I've decided to share this builds detailed assembly with hi res pics for all to see and enjoy. It's not often you see a $80K LS7 Twin Turbo motor in parts alone being built.

It will be a while before I get the 962 kit so I will start the engine machining and assembly process to pass the time.

Can't reveal all my little secrets on this build but I will share a lot.

I hope you all enjoy this adventure !!!

The premium components used on this build will be the strongest lightest available and will make this motor RELIABLY spin to 8500rpm's while able to hold in excess of 30psi of boost without lifting the heads. Life expectancy of the motor at 1000rwhp + with the proper tune will be 100k+ miles before needing to be re-built.

Although Pricey, The Billet blocks are the strongest 6 bolt head LS platform available for extreme HP while retaining the weight benefits of aluminum. I will show you why when as I assemble the motor.

You need the right chassis to harness it's power potential of 2500HP+ .
I will not go near that HP level for a street car .

There will be extensive drive trane mods harness the 1500HP it will have .
A racing Traction control system will be in place to keep it in check. It will give the driver some added protection with the power to smoke the tires past 140mph.

I am starting out with pics of the heads and valves chosen for this build as they were the first to arrive. I will add to this post as I have time. It will be slow..

Explanations and comments will be posted above the pics

Enjoy

Perry
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ALL PRO LSW 6 bolt LS7 heads


Titanium Intake valves with SS exhaust


Intake port


Intake port



The Diamond coating on the Intake valves is key to longevity and street abuse. I'ts a must for any Titanium valve used for FI use if you want your 8 Intake valves at $1000.00 to last



Combustion Chambers









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#3
Being one of (very) few GT40 owners opting for the LS series (mine is LS2), I will watch this one with great interest.

Nice work...
 

Alex

Active Member
#5
True.

I opted to keep my rev limit around 6400ish. I hate revving the engine. I just cringe at the "abuse", haha .... so, for me, low rpm limit, massive torque, and no valve train wear&tear :D
 

Dave

New Member
#6
That will be a nasty motor for sure but too many parts for me.
All that money for only 8500 rpm? ;)
That's $10k for every 1k.

What type of intercooler do you plan on using?
Air-to-air (A2A) or Air-to-water (A2W).

I've given up on using an A2A in my SL-C due to packaging constraints and flow requirements. Starting to look into A2W (which can be much smaller) and building the ic core into the plenum of my intake but we'll see how that goes.
 

Perry

New Member
#7
True.

I opted to keep my rev limit around 6400ish. I hate revving the engine. I just cringe at the "abuse", haha .... so, for me, low rpm limit, massive torque, and no valve train wear&tear :D

I agree on valvetrane wear.

That's why I spent a small fortune on my valvetrane to be able to spin 8000+ all day long.
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These heads will have about $ 7500.00 into them.

The springs and retainers were $1100.00

For retainers, I went with special tool steel units which are MUCH stronger and made for severe RPM use. They are also used in a sprint car motors that rev 8000rpm's all day.

The lifters for this motor are about $3000.00.
Note the size of the rollers. They are .850" and the lifter Bore is .927"

Also included are side by side pics of my new PSI springs for this project next to the Comp cams 921's that I am now using in my Corvette Vert. I am able to get 7500rpm's with the 921's on my AFR 225's.

These beefy new springs will keep the valves firmly on the valve seats on the All Pro Heads past 8500+ RPM's.

This car will not be a weekend Dragracer, I already have that.
It will be a High tech Supercar. My goal is a 8-9 sec car with a 250+ mph top speed when it is done. To do that you need a wide power band or a lot of gears. Power will definitely not be an issue. Down-force will not be either when it's all set up.

It will not be featherweight either. I'm projecting about 2600 lbs.
I would like to run the Texas Mile with my "962X" when finished.
I have a lot of electronic goodies going in I will be sharing with you all as well. A lot are there to keep me alive at incredible speeds with this much power.

I did a lot of research for this powerplant and these heads are the best for my application.
The aluminum used on these heads is much more dense than any other alum head on the market. High lift Flow #'s are incredible for a non canted valve head.

I did consider the ET canted valve heads. After speaking with ET I decided against it for a street car. The Canted valve heads shine at extreme lift/duration cam profiles. Great for racers that will spend 99% of the time at Rpm's above 5k. They would be much more suited for a N/A racer with high compression.

The Titanium valves I chose flowed the best in my lift range as well.
There were other Titanium valves that flowed better above .700 lift on these heads but sacrificed low lift flow . I did not want that for a street car.


Note the material behind those cylinder liners. Say goodbye to any balloning or splitting of the cylinder liners with extreme boost.

Also note the size of the main studs. They are larger SAE 7/16 vs. the ARP metric 10mmx2.0 holding down those beefy billet main caps.

Note the Bronze keyed lifter sleeves pressed in the block to accommodate the Large solid .927" roller lifter.


New PSI Springs on the left - Comp Cams 921 Springs on the right.





































 
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#8
Subscribed.

A couple questions: With the intended use to be under boost why such a high RPM requirement? Care to elaborate on the traction control system you'll be using?

Definately top shelf parts. I hope the system works out to provide all that you want it to.
 

Perry

New Member
#9
Subscribed.

A couple questions: With the intended use to be under boost why such a high RPM requirement? Care to elaborate on the traction control system you'll be using?

Definately top shelf parts. I hope the system works out to provide all that you want it to.
Hey Rich,

The high Horsepower at a high RPM level will help it on top speed runs as well as overcome horsepower robbing wind drag.

The 427 will have plenty of low end power to smoke the tires until the big turbos spool for mid and upper RPM Power.

The Aerodynamics of a 962 are incredible. They are designed to have sufficient downforce to corner at 200 MPH. Not that I will be practicing that .

I will be using a Race Logic Unit for Traction control.
With the race Logic, I can floor the accelerator from a dead stop with my 1500+ rwhp car and not worry about going up in smoke.
....It will give me the best possible acceleration/time with the tires/traction I have available. So if I put sticky tires on ,I will still keep the car on the edge of traction/power. Even in wet or icey conditions.

It has good reviews from all the Viper people and a Stop Tech Z06 track car... A lot of the top racers are using them in rallies ,hillclimbs, auto-cross.
......What it does is it monitors your wheel sensors 1000/sec and adjusts for maximum traction by systematically cutting injector pulse width to decrease power which avoids detonation. you can dial in how much if any you want to break the tires loose. LG uses it on his race car. You can go around a corner or curve and floor the accelerator and keep the car in it's line without sliding out. Or you can adjust it for the perfect drift around a corner by making it a little looser with a turn of a knob.
The digital unit is infintely adjustable so with the silver dial you see,I can adjust how much wheel spin I want on the fly.

It is not a plug and play system by no means so it's not for the everyday DYS'er. It cost me $1700.00 for the digital system. Prices start at $3400.00 installed. Plus you have to pay for their air fare to come and install it.:eek:

Once I install mine and get it dialed in I will do a personal review with videos.

IMO,it pays for itself with the little peace of mind when your foot gets heavy during a race or spirited driving by knowing you're not going to slide out and hit a wall or a tree. It makes your car funner to drive.

I think it would be much easier on your drivetrane also, especially a stick.

The launch control feature seems cool. Hit a button from a dead stop and it activates. You have a desired launch rev limit set on the controller and a set amount wheel slip, if any, you desire. You then just mash the pedal to the floor. It keeps your engine at your programmed launch RPM eg 4000rpm. You then slip the clutch out and hold on. Once programmed properly ( big key) ,I should be able to go through all the gears with my gas pedal to the floor with the maximum possible acceleration my tires can provide under any circumstance including accelerating during cornering.

I also made a jumper harness so it's plug and play
Heres some pics with it on my table ready to go...
Now I can install it without cutting of my Factory injector harness.. :thumbs:




This is why I need traction control.
Vid is in My 3600 lb. Vette I built with with 920HP at 13 psi. on 93

YouTube - DPE Corvettes.com 920hp Supercharged corvette C6
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Doc Kaler

Active Member
#11
Perry,

Very nice LS7 construction underway. I'm have those Jesel parts in my LS7 plus the Racelogic digital setup for my SL-C. Your wiring harness is very interesting and well done. Not going for your HP numbers though. Mine is NA with FAST 102 intake and Williams 105 DBW TB. Keep those descriptions coming!
 

Jim Craik

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#12
Perry,

Welcome to the form.

Thats some nice stuff, I'm looking forward to your build, that should be quite a beautiful beast!
 

Dave

New Member
#14
I will be using a Race Logic Unit for Traction control....
You'll need that power for the Texas mile. There or some crazy GT40's running those events. 1900 hp and 260 mph+. Would love to see this thing take it to them.

Race Logic is a nice setup, I've known a few people who've had good results with them and a couple more who weren't so happy.

I know the big HP Supra guys did not have success with them. The power came on too much too fast for the system to keep up or something, as if overwhelming the system. If you've ever seen the power curve from some of those Supra's, you'd know what I mean.

Seeing as how your budget is of no concern, why not just run a complete Motech system and be done with it and not have to worry about another auxiliary system?

I asked earlier but you may have missed it; I'm curious as to what you plan on doing for an intercooler setup.
 

Ruth

New Member
#15
I wish I understood 1/2 of what you're doing here. Maybe with time.

But at least I understand the important part. . . 1500hp.
 

Alan Watkins

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#17
Perry --

It is not a plug and play system by no means so it's not for the everyday DYS'er. It cost me $1700.00 for the digital system. Prices start at $3400.00 installed. Plus you have to pay for their air fare to come and install it.:eek:
This is very much in opposition to the Racelogic site which says "If you intend to install Racelogic Traction Control yourself, please follow the Fitting Instruction in this manual. This is a generic manual and as such does not contain vehicle-specific data. We would recommend consulting a competent auto electrician should you require precise information."

What's the deal?
 

Perry

New Member
#18
nice materials and big hp numbers...
the valve's look very close together? with that much hp.
nice pictures.
Hi Rene, Thanks. Valves are close but the pic makes them look closer then they are.


Perry,

Very nice LS7 construction underway. I'm have those Jesel parts in my LS7 plus the Racelogic digital setup for my SL-C. Your wiring harness is very interesting and well done. Not going for your HP numbers though. Mine is NA with FAST 102 intake and Williams 105 DBW TB. Keep those descriptions coming!
Nice build Doc,
Thanks for the comps. Good choice in the Jesels, Your valve trane will love you.


What type of intercooler do you plan on using?
Air-to-air (A2A) or Air-to-water (A2W).
$10K for every 1K RPM, that's funny.
I will wait and see what kind of room I have to work with before I make my decision on an inter-cooler. I really want to stay (A2A) though. I have some ideas. I'm really crucial about heat extraction. I know I have some work cut out for me with our limited space. I will be doing some body mods as well to aid in cooling.



You'll need that power for the Texas mile. There or some crazy GT40's running those events. 1900 hp and 260 mph+. Would love to see this thing take it to them.

Seeing as how your budget is of no concern, why not just run a complete Motech system and be done with it and not have to worry about another auxiliary system?

I asked earlier but you may have missed it; I'm curious as to what you plan on doing for an intercooler setup.
Thank's for the comps Dave,

I want to use A2A intercooler. That will be determined later though.
I'm using an OBD2 system in my car so it can be street legal.
I will have electric cutouts that route exhaust through the converters. Then when I want to do some spirited driving, flip a switch and the exhaust bypasses the converters and goes straight out the turbos on the side of the car. :thumbsup:

Perry,
Welcome to the form.
Thats some nice stuff, I'm looking forward to your build, that should be quite a beautiful beast!
Thanks - Jim, Allen, Molleur


I wish I understood 1/2 of what you're doing here. Maybe with time.
But at least I understand the important part. . . 1500hp.
From reading your posts, you understand more about cars that most guys I know. :laugh:


Perry --


This is very much in opposition to the Racelogic site which says "If you intend to install Racelogic Traction Control yourself, please follow the Fitting Instruction in this manual. This is a generic manual and as such does not contain vehicle-specific data. We would recommend consulting a competent auto electrician should you require precise information."

What's the deal?
Alan,
I don't think it says anything about tuning the system, just installation which is not so bad. I spoke with them about a year ago and that is what they told me. That is why people probably have different results with the Race Logic units. It's all in the tuning.

I just made a jumper harness instead of cutting my factory harness so if the Race Logic unit ever fails and I get stranded, I can just jump the 2 white connectors and bypass the whole system.
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Perry

New Member
#19
Here's some more goodies for the 962X. They are nice and Sticky !!

These are Hoosier R6's I had grooved for limited street use. The rears are 345's.





 

Perry

New Member
#20
Here are the Forged pistons for the motor.
I had them Ceramic coated on the top (Gold Color) to reflect heat back into the combustion chamber where it belongs.

The sides of the pistons are Teflon coated (black) to reduce friction when they slide up and down the cylinder walls.

 
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