Thanks bud. I'll take you up on that. Can confirm later in the week but I might be in your area on Friday afternoon.Nick, I have a spare startermotor unused on my "spareshelf" possibly from same manufacturer as adapterplate You can have it or keep as a spare, I have no use for it bud, next time you pop in
Hi, its 1.2mm 1050. If you believe all the blurb it’s qualities etc. are described as moderate strength with excellent corrosion resistance. Attractive feature is its highly reflective surface so ideally suited to exposed uses where a decorative impact is desired. Make of that what you will.What alloy are you using, Nick?
Hi Neil. This time around am planning to skip the sealant between the panels and the chassis. unless I'm unlucky to get caught out one day, I've no real intention of taking g=her out in the wet. We are also going Riv Nuts as opposed to rivets so the panels are remove-able.Thanks, Nick. I had never heard of 1050 aluminum alloy so I had to look it up. Adding a sealant such as silicone or polysulfide betreen the tube and the aluminum before riveting will keep moisture out of the faying surface.
Hi Neil, yep, we considered that. we have installed a layer of neoprene rubber self adhesive strip between the panels running between the Riv-Nut heads. This way the panels sit sight and are weather sealed to address the odd chance I one day get caught out in the wet.Nick, unless you install countersunk Riv-Nuts the panels will not lay tight against the tubing. It will be spaced away by the width of the Riv-Nut head. Countersunk Riv-Nuts are such a pain to install that it might be easier to rivet the panels on and then drill them out when you need to remove the panel.
Absolute pleasure to be working with you on your car NickFollowing last weeks post at the end of week 3, now just about the end of week 4. The original front end panelling which I have loathed for so long is now completely gone and replaced. So much happier to progress the car now that is done and dusted. Next week work moves into the cabin where the centre tunnel finally gets completed (boxed in) along with the Gear shift cable / wiring loom section (boxed in) . Then in go the door lock mechanisms along with the loom proper and the ECU. Then, given a fair wind, that should leave around 2 weeks at the end of this 8 week project to address the "nice to do's if we had time !"
Gale, As a group of UK Forte builders, we got together and made a group purchase. They are nothing flashy but we have the drawings for both the front and rears. Drop me a PM if you’d like the info.While reading thru your build I saw a mention of parrot beak hing fittings for the rear body. I didn’t see whether you fabricated them or bought them?