SPF MKII Ownership

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

As I understand it, all original GT had ppor weathersealing. I do know when Safir P1116 was driven home from Detroit in the rain, several inches of water accumulated in the tub!

The issue on original cars (and therefor by extension, I assume the SPF) is at the front of the door where the hinge post is. The pinchweld type weatherstrip used at FAV/JW was not "tall" enough to be compressed by the inner seal surface of the door thus allowing all the water that flowed off the nose and thrown up by the front tires to be forced aginst this semi-non existant seal and run right into the cockpit. This can be reduced with alternate weaterstrip or with a shim on the door such as 3M double sided moulding tape to build up the surface.

The door/roof cutouts leak less than you might expect at road speeds....at track speeds it becomes more of an issue with pressure inside forcing the doors up, thus the development of the "eyebrows" to keep the door ends from rising.

Rick

 

[Frank Catt]

You dropped out Mike? havent heard from you.

 

[Mike Christian]

Sorry, I was swimming with sea turtles in Maui.

Once I get my blood pressure back on line I will respond.

Aloha,
Mike

 

[Paolo-LoveGT40 Modelworks]

Sorry, I was swimming with sea turtles in Maui.

Once I get my blood pressure back on line I will respond.

Aloha,
Mike

Mike,
..spf and swim in maui...ehm..
I'm too deep inside capital sins for u now

 

[Mike Christian]

Sorry for the late replies:

Mike Trusty - Thanks for the underside photos of my car - I like the quality of the workmanship I see so far.

Frank - thanks for the photos of the trans support. Do you have a cost on them?

Pat - I think the 158 miles are put on by Olthoff at a track or in rural North Carolina while dialing the car in.

Don - congrats on your car and good luck with the ZF. It is worth the wait - at least I feel that way.

Richard - no daylight between the doors and the body in my car.

I am heading back to Oregon to see the car next week and will take more pics and report more as I should be able to register it and get it on the road.

Mr Capital Sins - Maui from LA is a short drive...very easy to do...

Mike

 

[Richard]

Good to hear about the door seals. Speaking of registration does anyone know how these cars get registered in Idaho? I talked to my insurance people and they said it would be about $.65/thousand if it were registered as a 1966 and $1.40/thousand if it were registered as a 2007. So if you figure on $100,000.00 worth of insurance that’s a big difference. $650.00/year compared to $1,400.00/ year. So is there any way to get it registered as a 1966?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

So is there any way to get it registered as a 1966?

Yes,

But you don't want to go there. Do a little searching over on ClubCobra for the "I have a new Cobra registered as a 1965" threads. Many do not end well. We must accept that these are "new" constructions, not "1966 GT40s" (never mind calling it a "Ford"!) and go with the flow of our chosen state. Some do allow reg as the year the car replicates, others do not. To "bend" the rules is to invite the wrath of the DMV and could even void your insurance coverage should the unthinkable occur!

Don't risk a carload of trouble to save some money or for "yes, it's a 1966" bragging rights.......

Rick

 

[Richard]

I don’t think I understand your concerns. I really don’t care what year it’s registered as unless it can save me some money or make the car easer to sell. I wouldn’t think anyone that really knew the cars or cared would think it was anything but a replica. I’m not trying to do anything illegal or shady but I wouldn’t mind saving some money on insurance if possible. It’s the insurance companies rule not mine. I would think if it is covered for the same amount of stated value insurance why would they care when it was built? I would think that the newer it was the less likely it would be stolen, the better it would be made, the less it would cost to fix and the safer it would be. I just don’t get their logic. I’m just trying to figure out what my options are in Idaho. Where I live there is no smog checks at all (I’m very lucky). If some states allow you to register your replica as a 1960’s car and you can sell it to someone in another state what’s the issue? My 1966 GT350H was made and registered in California (Hertz at the San Francisco airport). 1966 was the first year for smog pumps in California except Hi-Po 289’s and 427 cars (on Fords anyway). I’m sure there is no way my car would pass a smog test anywhere as all it has is PVC valve. As far as I can tell even if the GT40 were registered as new, in Idaho it is exempt from the smog rules being a replica. Wouldn’t it be easer to sell the car to someone in say California if it was registered as a 65/66 so they wouldn’t have to worry about the SB100 thing? Like I said I want to be totally upfront and legal I was just hoping to get some help in understanding the process.

 

[Richard]

Hope I haven’t put a damper on the thread I suppose the registration and smog post could go elsewhere but it all seems to be part of the SPF GT40 ownership experience. The good and the bad. It’s great to have someone willing to share their car and experiences with the rest for us. Please keep the posts coming.

 

[Mike Christian]

California is wise to the 1966 thing you are describing and will come down hard on the person trying to register it. Just ask the Cobra guys, and the Spyder guys. The state even prowls these kinds of websites to see what is being talked about on this type of issue.

The best way to check is through your own DMV - find their website and do the right thing.

Mike

 

[Mike Christian]

A picture of the engine out of the car by request.

 

[johng]

I was asking Mike about the oil filter on his MKII.

The parts I received from SPF includes an adapter to allow oil to get from the engine to the cooler, but this is not an adapter that will allow mounting of a filter, nor is there a remote oil filter mount in the box of parts. When I look at some pictures of completed MKII's in this thread and others, it appears as though a oil filter is not used?? It appears as though the lines come from the adapter, direct into the cooler.?? I could see them not running filters in racing but for a street car?? Am I missing something??

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I would install an in-line oil filter stup or even a dual if you have room. Some race vehicles don't use filters as by the time anything big enough for the filter to trap comes through, the engine is junk anyways and the race is lost!

You could even build a combination MK II type aircraft cooler that is part cooler and has a hidden oil filter in part of it!

And I highly reccomend the Ford/Motorcraft "FL1 HP" oil filter. It fits all FL1 applications but filters better, has a much thicker case with higher burst pressure and the mounting plate is thicker with more threads for engagement and bigger oil flow ports.

Rick

 

[Ron Earp]

I could see them not running filters in racing but for a street car?? Am I missing something??

Run the filters, street or race car. I'm currently cleaning the Olberg filter out of the Z race car after this last weekend and it is ungodly flithly. I might have to take a picture of it for show and tell it is so bad. And there are some particles you can feel with your filters they are so large. But, the motor is happy and doing well.

Sounds like all you need is the mounting block as others have mentioned. Here is a single:
Moroso Remote Oil Filter Mount - JEGS

And doubles can be had from the same places. You can easily plumb these inline with your coolers. And, you might end up with an extra port for oil pressure or oil temp if you don't have that covered, or, I've put low 5 or 10 psi switches in the extra ports to light up and warn of impending doom. And seen them light up before.....

Ron

 

[Daryl Adams]

Seems to me that I saw a remote spin-on filter setup on the SPF MKI in this thread:

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/19509-first-spf-mki-pictures-2.html

(fourth pic from the bottom of post #1) Or is that just for the ZF?

 

[Frank Catt]

Option for Oil filter and high efficiency oil cooler on SPF.

 

[Rich E.]

Frank,

Please elaborate on your cooler. Will this fit both MK1 and MKII's?

Very interested
Rich.

 

[Frank Catt]

Rich, this set up is fitted to a SPF mk1, but can equally be fitted to the Mark2, very high air flow/cooling efficiency, this is a copy of oil cooler set up on some later original GT40 race cars, and we also fitted to P1088.

 

[Ian K]

Hope I haven’t put a damper on the thread I suppose the registration and smog post could go elsewhere but it all seems to be part of the SPF GT40 ownership experience. The good and the bad. It’s great to have someone willing to share their car and experiences with the rest for us. Please keep the posts coming.

There used to be a time where you could get a title from another state that was
less scrutinous of car registration, and use it to get a 1966 title transferred to
other states. However, many local governments have stepped in, and it is now
very difficult and basically illegal to reg a new replica as a '66. Those states are
also pretty tough on trying to buy a car titled in such a way and transfer the
title to a different state. Basically, sooner or later, all 50 states will have strict
laws regarding this issue, and steep fines will ensue.

Ian

 

[johng]

I saw the remote set-up on the MKI, and it is a very nice arrangement. Rest Assured that I will not start these motor without a filter!! I was kinda of amazed when I saw some pic's that makes it look like one was not installed on some MKII's. For the price of a remote base, a few feet of hose, and some connections, I consider it money well spent.