SPF MKII Ownership

Ron Earp

If I were to do it with the engines in I would probably go get a heavy steel bar that would span both quick-jack points and than jack in the middle of that. As always chock the wheels and use stands. Just my 2cents
Those quick jack "hooks" on the front of your car are intended to be used with a lifting lever. The lifting lever has a bar that engages both hooks, then using the wheels integrated into the lever and the 5-6ft length of the lever, you raise the car off the ground. No jacks required. You do need space to store the contraption though. I tried to find you a picture of one on Google but no dice. See them all the time in the track paddock though.

I would recommend a lead hammer over the dead blow. I have both and the lead hammer will get them tight enough, sometimes the dead blow will not. The lead hammer will not scratch the wheel at all. Actually the plastic dead blow will leave a mark. This is not a place to mess around, get a lead hammer and safety wire the wheels every time.
I like the idea of a solid bar between the front or rear jack points and then using a hydraulic jack. I might have a larger diameter disk welded to each end of the solid rod to prevent slippage side-to-side.

I was aware of the lever jacks, but I assumed it would have to be custom.

I thought there might be a few pont on the tub that were reinforced and could be used....but I will stick to the obvious places.

Superformance and Vintage Wheels both have lead hammers. I won't fnd a source here in So Oregon.

Thanks for the replies!


Doug S.

The protoplasm may be 70, but the spirit is 32!
Lifetime Supporter
I'd like to see a photo of a lifting lever, the kind with a long handle meant to lift the car by leverage. Does anyone have a photo they can post? I'd like to see if my visual is anywhere close.


[Edit:] Never mind the photo, guys, there's video of one in action in the first link in this new thread:


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Steve Briscoe

Lifetime Supporter
Mike -
This is a great thread. Thank you. There's all kinds of stuff here that will help me with my car.

That second picture of the underneath side of your car on page 4 shows the bell housing in the normal position. I'm going to encounter speed bumps and other such things where I live which might be a problem for the bell housing. The guys at Legendary Motorsports, Castle Rock, Colorado are working on a smaller bell housing that will be flat with the bottom of the car. I believe (?) it will require a smaller flywheel. I don't want to steal their thunder but if they can pull it off, it will help me keep the bell housing a little higher and off the gnarly bumps. If they can't, I'll go with the usual. Legendary is full of nice people working hard to support the GT40 community. I hope they're successful.

Thanks again for this thread,

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Here is an awful drawing I did in PowerPoint.
Keep in mind the angle must be over 90 degrees so that the load is "over-center" and the weight of the car keeps pressure on the handle to the ground. Also you want to bend end of the handle are upwards, so that it is not on the ground allowing you to get your hands on it when the car is up.

Don't know what the formula for the length of the handle to the weight of the car is 'though. Perhaps one of our more educated members has that info.

Got the rear view mirror installed today - I put it on the center line as high up as it would go. It gives me a glimpse from the outside of each side of the snorkels. I think, with a small curved mirror on the inside of each door, I will not have any blind spots. We will see.

I also filled the windshield washer bottle.

Drove the car back to the hangar as the tire pressure is holding with the nail in it. I will get it fiex next visit in a couple of weeks.

Noticed while driving that the turn signals are non-canceling and the yellow indicator light on the upper left corner near the tach is either not working or too dim to see.

What a rush to drive...

I just got a call from Barry at Superformance. They have my VIN plate and a lead hammer. I will pick them up this week.

I asked about the jack and they do not sell a lever like that pictured. They use a low profile jack. They roll the car up on 2X4 in the front to get the jack under the car.

The jack points he recommended are the rear edge of the front wheel well and the front edge of the rear wheel well.


Doug S.

The protoplasm may be 70, but the spirit is 32!
Lifetime Supporter
They use a low profile jack. They roll the car up on 2X4 in the front to get the jack under the car.Mike
Not exactly convenient if you have a flat while out on the road. Given the size tires I saw on your SPF in the "nail in the tire" post, I surmise that even a vehicle as light as the 40 might be a difficult push onto a 2 X 4 if it had a flat tire.

Of course, out on the street, as they say, "...any port in a storm". Obviously, a jacking lever can't be carried with you.

I'd be interested in what SPF has to say about the best option. If it's the 2 X 4, I'd suggest you bevel one edge of a 2 X 6 so the tire will roll up on it easier and just carry one with you. For such an expensive car, though, it seems there ought to be a better option.

Just my $.02.

Having said that, though, I must admit I'm really enjoying this thread, Mike. My favorite so far has been your comment something to the nature of ".....what a rush to drive....". I bet so!!!

No spare tire on the SPF version. Air conditioning unit occupies the space where the spare tire was carried on the original GT40's. Ya gotta carry "Fix-a-Flat" :rolleyes:
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