SPF MKII Ownership

Steve C

GT40s Supporter
Guys...Trust me there is a filter on the SPF MK11's ( at least the ones that Olthoff does) ...It's further back on a remote adapter ( on mine a high capacity, no bypass Canton)....Flow is out of engine through the cooler then through the filter and to the engine.....Steve
I was confident Dennis would not let one leave his shop with out one, just have not seen one in any of the pics floating around. Where is the remote adapter located? Is it back on the tail support structure? Thanks for the info!!
This is the remote engine oil filter mount on one of Olthoff’s installs. It is bolted to a bracket that is bolted to the engine block by the rear engine mount bolt. The oil flows from engine to filter………..cooler………..back to engine, Canton makes a quality billet mount that fits well in this area and takes the FL-1A.



Thanks for the pic!! I really appreciate it. Like I said, I could not imagine Dennis sending one out without it. I have been to his shop and know he does top quality work. Most remotes I have seen were mounted farther back, but this pic clears it all up, Thanks again for taking the time.
Well, after waiting another month since delivery, I finally got a chance to visit my SPF and spend a little more time with it.

I verified I do not have an electric fuel pump. This is contrary to what I was originally told by Olthoff.

The car sat for a month and would not start. I checked fuses and one was blown. It is a 15amp third from the right. I called Dennis and he said to use one of the two 20 amp fuses as those are for the electric fuel pumps if fitted. He is sending me a fuse diagram. He also said to pump the carb about 6 full pumps. I did and it lit right off. The car had very little fuel in it so I headed to the nearest gas station. Needless to say, it got stares everywhere I went.

I got two sets of gas cap keys - one was stuffed under the right tank cap. A different key operates each locking cap.

I was told to fuel one side and open the opposite tank cap to let it vent and they would cross fill. Well, the left tank filled, but the gas didn't seem to be transferring across fast, so I added gas to the right.

The car is very driveable and has a fairly smooth ride - I was pleasantly surprised. I could defintely drive this long distances.

I had to drive through town at 20, 35, and 45mph and that was no problem. Then I hit the rural roads and opened it up...what a wail it makes! I sat behind a pickup doing 55 in a 60 zone and when in third I opened it up (not all the way) to pass I hit 100 so fast I couldn't believe it. The pickup truck was toast.

It handles sure and a bit heavy at slow speeds (less than 100?). The shift action is short and stiff. There was not a rattle on the back country road trip.

In the mail today I also received the carpet set promised by HillBank in lieu of the oil pan I was originally to get. This is very nice and good quality - P/N SP-001-2. See the picture below after installation the cut isn't quite right, but they work well. The set is two sill covers that say GT40 and two footwell covers that show the emblem. I also got my rearview mirror which I have to install tomorrow before driving more.

Then I head off to register it. Oregon gives you a 21 day pass for $20. to get it registered.




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Oh, a couple fo the shots above are to show ground clearance. I didn't have a tape measure with me, I will measure tomorrow, but I estimate 4". The lowest point is the bellhousing in the one pic, but it is within the wheel area.
so if it does not cross fill ,then does it cross empty? With no seperate electric pumps and I assume one mechanical one, how does it pick up to both tanks?
The cross over tube that runs from the right tank to left looks to be AN 16 SS hose. I am not sure if there is also a cross over on the front of the tanks, but one will need to fill at a slower rate for a tube of this size to keep up.


Both of the cars I am building were also missing the interior mirrors? Strange.

Contact Superformance for the mirrors. I was told they just changd the mirror or found another source.

You posted pictures, but can you PM the cost and the lead time? Thanks!

Bittersweet day...had another nice drive, but when I got home I discovered a nice nail in the right rear tire. I don't have a lead hammer to get the wheel off. I called Superformance and they have them in stock for about $20. Now why wouldn' they give one with the car...or suggest you buy one with the car?

I also do not know where the proper jacking points are. Other than the ery front and very rear - I dont have that kind of jack. Anyone know whre I can get one? Or where the car can be jacked from otherwise?

The clearance I measure is 4 3/8" at the sides. I can't measure the clearance at the bellhousing.

The info I got from Olthoff regarding the switch functions is wrong in teh A/C area. My lower left knob controls cold/heat, the center knob controls das h/floor and the right knob controls defrost/floor. Nice to find this out! Nothing like adding heat to the cockpit on a hot day....

Tried to register it today only to find out the car has no VIN plate. I have to wait until Monday to call Superformance again as they are at the Long Beach Grand Prix...just my luck. I may have to wait until my next visit.

I took the opportunity to put the GT next to my other replica - 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. 11 Years span the designs.



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Some other observations:

Some of the ducts are not hosed. Here is a shot of the back snorkels from the inside. There other ducts not hosed are the outboard ones up front that would feed brakes I assume. Picture 1 below.

Get yourself some AT Fuses 7.5, 10, 15 and 20 amp and a fuse puller. It is tight getting some out with your fingers.

Here is a shot from behind loking in and you canjust see the white oil filter. Have to get at this from below. Picture 2

Picture 3 - I just liked the shot!




Some of the ducts are not hosed. Here is a shot of the back snorkels from the inside. There other ducts not hosed are the outboard ones up front that would feed brakes I assume.
The two "snorkel" scoops on the rear deck are to cool the rear brakes. The scooped slot between them is to cool the transaxle. Apparently Hi-Tech/SPF has left it to the purchaser to install the ducting from these to the brakes and transaxle. (Actually, unless you plan on getting into endurance racing, such ducting to the components probably isn't necesary.)

I also do not know where the proper jacking points are. Other than the very front and very rear - I dont have that kind of jack. Anyone know whre I can get one? Or where the car can be jacked from otherwise?
At least a couple of the SPF GT40's that've arrived at my local dealer have had brackets at the rear to, just like the originals, pop up the rear of the car for with a quick-jack for a fast rear tire change in the pits. Did yours come with one of these? A quick-jack shouldn't be hard to come up with (but you should use jack stands once you get the car up as, as you probably know, supporting a car with a jack when your under it should never be done.). I would contact Olthoff or HI-Tech for the proper solid points on the car for jacking and supporting, rear and front.
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Although not original, I intend to use a good quality "Dead Blow" hammer for the knock-offs. These are hammers filled with lead shot or sand and have a fairly soft urethane exterior. I think these will do the trick with less marring than a lead hammer. Wow a nail that quick, bad luck.
I just went out and tried using a standard hydraulic floor jack (not a bottle jack!) on the quick-jack point at the rear and it lifted it no problem. Keep in mind however, I still do not have motors and trans in them. If I were to do it with the engines in I would probably go get a heavy steel bar that would span both quick-jack points and than jack in the middle of that. As always chock the wheels and use stands. Just my 2cents