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Trev,
That rubber stripping looks great! I'd go for a conical shape on the gaiter. Takes up much less space, and easier to fabricate.
 
After a few more attempts I've finally got a housing design that works. I went for a more pyramidal shape as per Tom's recommendation. This design pinches the sides in meaning the brake pedal clearly misses the housing.

Now I just need to make it in aluminium. It's the simplest looking jobs that seem to be the trickiest

build-april2.jpg
 
Hi Trev,
I was looking back at some of your previous posts and wondered why you want to bother to cover the steering hole. As the car progress's you will not see the hole or even notice it, It looks like the Joint sticks through into the cockpit, but so does mine a bit and I have left the hole as is. My steering column is adjustable up and down a bit yours is in a fixed, welded position.You want as least amount around your feet as possible with these cars as there's not a lot of room anyway. You might struggle to heel and toe with a bit sticking out.
I have seen rubber seals that split in half but never used one.
 
Hi Trev,
I was looking back at some of your previous posts and wondered why you want to bother to cover the steering hole. As the car progress's you will not see the hole or even notice it, It looks like the Joint sticks through into the cockpit, but so does mine a bit and I have left the hole as is. My steering column is adjustable up and down a bit yours is in a fixed, welded position.You want as least amount around your feet as possible with these cars as there's not a lot of room anyway. You might struggle to heel and toe with a bit sticking out.
I have seen rubber seals that split in half but never used one.

Hey Keith, wanted to add a housing purely to keep things nice and tidy and to seal away the UV joint to stop anything getting in there. The plan was to make the housing removable with some rivnuts so that if indeed it does get in the way it can be easily removed.

I am also going to try a version today of fitting a simple aluminium surround around the hole and then covering it with some thin rubber sheet I bought with a hole for the column. Again using rivnuts so if the rubber needs replacing or I have issues it can be removed. Will post up some pic as usual.

Keith, I didn't receive your last PM as my inbox was full, it's clear now
 
OK guys thanks for the response and the suggestions. I think we might have a winner. How about something like this?

build-april3.jpg


It's basically a flat backing plate with a circle cut into it. This give enough room for the UV joint to pass through and is flat so won't cause any space issues. To finish I'd put some riv nuts around the square plate so once removed I have a decent space to work in. I think this is a nice simple solution and with some rubber edging strip around the hole I think it will look nice a tidy.

What do we think? Let me know and I'll knock it up this afternoon.

Trev
 
Spent a little time this afternoon making the new simple removable panel with hole cut into it. I added a spare bit of rubber edging to test the clearance of the UV joint but didn't have enough to cover the whole opening.

I am really happy with this simple option and the clearances are spot on so will drill it into place tomorrow and fit rivnuts and I've ordered some extra edging to finish everything off

build-april4.jpg
 
Trev, I'd still fit some kind of rubber boot to seal it. I'm not 100% sure on the tornado layout beyond there but it's got to be reasonably open to the elements, you're not going to want the cold draft you'll get through there blowing straight on your feet.
 
hmm, thanks David. I am getting some mixed thoughts here, some people saying to cover the hole, some saying to leave it open. Ideally it would be nice to seal it up but because the UV joint and bolt stick through quite a bit making something to cover it requires room around the pedals.

After another look this morning I had another idea. Now I have a circular hole on the removable plate I could fit a domed plastic or metal cap into the opening and then drill a hole in the top to allow the column to pass through. A quick search on ebay and I found a 72mm dust cap for a trailer. Could this work?

build-april6.jpg
 

Andy Sheldon

Tornado Sports Cars
GT40s Sponsor
Trevor

If you follow the build manual chapter 6, page 36, step 10 it will seal the hole and there will be no obstructions.

Thanks

Andy
 
Trevor

If you follow the build manual chapter 6, page 36, step 10 it will seal the hole and there will be no obstructions.

Thanks

Andy

Now Andy there's a thought :thumbsup:

I do believe Trevor made this statement way back 2 years ago, though I guess he has gotbitten by the GT40 tinkering bug since then LOL

Trevor said:
As this is my first build and I've not done anything like this at all before I am sticking completly to following the manual. If there is something I am not sure of I'll ask Scott or Andy and they will advise on what they thinks is the best approach based on their knowledge and experience with the tornado chassis'.
 
Keep it simple, neat and tidy, otherwise you may get caught up in so much detailing that the car will end up your 65th retirement gift to yourself or is it 70 now !

Went to the kit car show yesterday at Detling, Kent " it was crap " so anyone who was thinking about going and didn't , you saved yourself a Tenner .
 
Keep it simple, neat and tidy, otherwise you may get caught up in so much detailing that the car will end up your 65th retirement gift to yourself or is it 70 now !

Went to the kit car show yesterday at Detling, Kent " it was crap " so anyone who was thinking about going and didn't , you saved yourself a Tenner .

Trying to keep it simple Keith, hence why I tried you idea of not bothering to cover the hole. Will try the standard Tornado approach but after playing with some rubber sheet today the problem will still be the bolts rubbing on the rubber sheet. I'd rather the UV joint didn't rub or come into contact with anything as I don't want it to get caught/stuck etc should the rubber wear through over time.

Also to try and ensure I get to enjoy the car before I am 65 it's going to be sent away to the experts to keep things moving along. Southern GT are hopefully going to take the car into their workshop in a month to fit brakes, wheels and setup the suspension. Then I've asked Tornado if they can do the bodywork on the car as I want a perfect fit and finish so it is provisionally booked in for October depending on their work schedule.

I've still got my wedding date next August in the back of my mind and if the car could be finished by then it would be a dream come true.

Trev
 
Trevor

your attention to detail and the quality level of how you adress things raises the question if you will be satisfied with a body fit by anyone else ( not questioning the competence of Tornado) . In my experience, this is the most sensitive part in a build, and everyones expectations are different. As are everyones standards. If you do have chance to stop by every week to check progress and details ,you may be fine. If not, you high likely may be dissatisfied with what you will get. I rather recommand to go and check for a local body shop with expereince in this kind of cars, best would be the one also doing the paint. Take one week of and do the bodyfit together with them and you will be happy with the result and proud that you had a major influence on it.

just my 2 cent
TOM
 
Hi Trev,
Tom is right. Things to consider though !
Using other people may speed the process up but it can also be a big mistake.
I used someone to do some jobs for me a while ago and ended up re doing 50% of the work as it was substandard and dangerous by a long way.
You take care and pride in the quality of work, that shows. My opinion is do it yourself even if you balls some bits up.
The body if done by Tornado would I'm sure be done correctly and to your approval but you would miss out on the enjoyment of doing it yourself.
Nevertheless, dont take it the wrong way, but if your unsure of doing some jobs then the only alternative is to get someone to do it. It will add to the cost though big time.
" I think you can do it all "

What stage are you at regards wiring loom, brake and clutch lines etc etc ?
 
Hi all

Time for a progress report on the build. I've not been spending much time on the car over the past few weeks as I was away in Italy for a week watching the F1 testing at Mugello and visiting Ferrari and Lamborghini museums. I also bought a 1963 Ford Anglia before I went away which I have decided to restore and I've given myself 2 months off the GT40 to get the Anglia completely restored so things will be a little slower on the GT40 project until that's done.

As for the GT40, I've had a thrust washer welded to the new steering column and that's all done now and I've bought a gear gaiter from an old Ford Fiesta which I am hoping should do the job to cover the hole where the UV joint comes through the front bulkhead.

I also went over to Tornado today and picked up the radiator and fans which I hope to install in the next few days so I can tweek the pipes and get them sprayed silver.

build-may3.jpg
 
Not too much to report, still got another month of time off the GT40 to finish the Anglia restoration. I have however just received a green identification light that I've been looking for, for ages. I have a red one and a clear one but the green one has always eluded me.

build-may4.png


Also one bit of exciting news is that Gelscoe are going make me up a set of pre 1965 rear fibreglass pods as I prefer the look of the twin lamps at the back. Can't wait to get the body on the car
 
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