What should I do with the dash?

Alex, gotch 'ya on the minimal interior. Opt for Fran's CF dash, or as I mentioned earlier flock it. It would be a real bear to overlay. I did my dash binnacles (humps)
as a CF overlay and will mask off and flock the remainder. A little work with RM851
sanding paste and a gold scotchbrite pad will give the carbon overlay a (non-glare)semi-matt finish.
 
Dash is finished - black leather, no poofy padding or anything.

It turned out fantastic - it's very flat and fits the look of the car perfectly (even with no interior). I was initially concerned that it would stick out like a sore thumb, but it blends in perfectly.

I'm soooo glad I went this route - 0 maintenance vs 101010101010x maintenance for a painted dash.

The only downside is it feels like it picked up 2lbs on it, but oh well, it was worth it.

interior1.jpg

interior2.jpg

interior3.jpg



I opted to leave the end pieces out (the ones you cut to fit the dash around the roll bars. I contemplated this for a long time, but decided to go this route because

- I wanted to make the dash as easy to remove as possible
- I didn't want seams showing there (i'd much rather have a hole showing the dash and roll cage mounting area; looks more racey)

I don't think it will be too noticable once the windshield is in ... and if it is, oh well, I don't care, lol.
 
You guys in texas are lucky ..... no illegal Mexicans willing to work for $5/hr up here .... everybody demands $100+/hr, hah!
 
Maybe you can shave the 2 lbs off of something else.:thumbsup:
Being the master mechanic and all-round automotive expert that I am, maybe I can help you select items for your weight-saving.

  • Not the brake calipers (you need them for show), not the carbon discs (they are there to squeak and to be useless until up to temperature), it's the brake pads you don't need. Don't worry: no one ever sees them!
  • All those rods and boxes that connect the steering wheel to the front wheels. Totally unseen and unnecessary!
  • Sparkplugs (Keep the wires: they look really cool)
  • At least a piston or two (with your powerful engine, whose going to notice their absence?)
  • Best of all, lose the wheelnuts. Totally too small to be noticed by those pretty ladies at trackside who wave at you when you sweep by them at the end of the straight at 190 mph into the hairpin!
Always eager to help out a fellow SL-C'er to be ever Superlight-er!:thumbsup:

Bassanio et Portia :)
 
Alex,
On the incompleteness of your dash..... I had the same dilemma as to what to do except it was for a GT40. With mine I installed my cage and then tried to figure out what to do. Fortunately for me I had a RHD dash. So I bought a LHD one and used the corners of the old RHD dash to experiment with. Trying to get those areas filled in is a B***h. But I used a lot of painters tape after many cuts in the old dash corners to get the right outline for the dash around the Roll cage. You could do it as well with just cardboard and tape to get the outline and then cut the dash to fit. If you make some mistakes,,, which I am sure you will, there is fiberglass to make the repairs. It will all be covered with leather anyway and won't show. The trick is to get straight lines in the front section along the inside of the cage, as you still will have to be able to get the dash out occasionally. This area is hard to get support for the additional pieces. Here is what i did to get that support.

First I cut the dash out as mentioned before and transferred it to my permanent dash. I then took an additional amount out of both pieces for the thickness of the leather.
P1010105.jpg


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Then I had some old right angle stock from the big box store used to support shelving. It already had some nice holes in it for the bolts I planned to use. I straightened the right angles out. In the main part of the dash I measured where the holes were and drilled a hole to match the angle stock. Then I counter sunk from the top enough for the head of the bolt that I was going to use to sit flush with the top of the dash. If the dash is thin at that point, add some fiberglass and grind the head of the bolt down to about 1/8".It may have had a little bit above the dash, but that just meant to leave a little piece of the padding out over the bolt. This bolt and nut held the straightened angle piece in but not so tight it would not move. Put some locktight blue on the thread and snug the nut down to where it will still move. This will hold the nut in place. This allows it to swing out after the dash is installed.

P1010109.jpg


It will sit holding the extra piece in place and if need be can have the same option as the main dash with the nut in the dash piece instead of the bolt head. This is then screwed down to hold it in place. If you want it to look like a seam as in the dash, then just sew two lines of stitching along the edges of the two pieces and it will look like another seam instead of a joint.

P1010110-1.jpg


Here is what it looks like from the inside and with the glass, which hides most of it.
P1010047.jpg


P1010049.jpg


I think you should finish off the dash, for the simple reason that you are building a nice car. You took the effort to do the dash in leather and left out the finishing touches. Leaving the exposed underside of the dash is not what you want people to see. If you didn't care how people saw it then why do the dash at all. Leave it all raw and "racey"!!
This isn't a criticism just motivation and inspiration to finish off the small details. That is what makes a real difference between a good car and a great car. Detailing is what makes one car standout over another.
Good luck with your build.

Bill
 

Randy V

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Very very nice Bill! :thumbsup:

I've cut my dash similar to yours and Tom's (Eglitom) here - in order to make the dash removable with the rollcage installed.
 
Hi,

I had the same long lasting findings with that topic.
After talking to a lot of race car owners here ( track and rally cars), my decision was real leather ...I have chosen the dark no glossary one that you can find in bentleys today...No reflection in the windscreen....and I love it .....
Optics is fine, the rest of my car is bare metal...it looks good and feels fine....the center tunnel is yet to cover ....but this is for winter time......
If you go for leather make sure you get the highest quality you can and the darkest black there is ....For a good craftsmanship I paid around 600$ to cover it ....but it looks excellent .....and it is of course a lot of work.....see the pic...a bit dirty the time it was taken but you can get an impression ...

Flocking is no alternative....it peels of over time because the most glues are not ultra violet light resistend and ...Having spoken to several people and they all they they would not do it again ...after three years it starts peeling of .....

y.m.2ct

cheers
(C)arlos
 

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Looks good Carlos. I was initially worried about the raw metal/leather dash look, but like yours, I think it flows really well.
 
I too like the metal leather combination. I'm using it in my interior also. The problem is that you are going to have to insulate some of the areas in order to inhibit the transfer of heat. A/C can only do so much. Once covered it will need to be finished off, unless the insulation is hidden and not exposed. If it is exposed, leather works fine there, or a good grade of carpet. If the car is going to be a track car then exposed metal or metal with insulation is expected. Most of them will limit coverings in order to save weight, or it will get soiled too easily. Exposed wiring is the norm, but it should be neatly done and placed in looms so it will function well, and, look good. If it is to be an occasional track car, or a street car, areas covered externally should be completed. Please don't take this the wrong way. I am not trying to sound dictatorial or condescending, but to cover part of an area and not all of it, to me, gives the impression that it is unfinished and therefore not complete, and again, to me, detracts from the total look of the car. Just my $0.02. Your title does ask what to do with your dash?!

Bill
 
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