Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40
- Thread starter Wolfman
- Start date
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
I would suggest you make that removable for ease of removing engine and /or transmission
Ian
Yes sir…absolutely the plan! Also will probably end up supporting the exhaust from this as well.
Been busy with work and final prep and paint on a Cobra replica I’m finishing but have had some small progress in the evenings on the rear clamshell pivot and front radiator support. The front support is of lighter material to be designed as more of a crumple zone in absorbing energy in an acciden. It also will be bolted on to the main chassis for ease of any possible maintenance in the front.
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The tow hooks/tie down hooks are certainly a strong possibility but just wanted to see how robust things were before I incorporated them. Also am thinking of a skid/curved contact pad/plate as well at the front & center as the lowest spot for high angle drives & approaches. Along those lines, I’m also looking at the RamLiftPro set up that raises the ride height at the top of the coil overs for quick adjustment to make it over high obstacles and drives.
ALL GOOD IDEAS DEVIN
Mostly complete with tacking up the structure. I have one more addition in the form of reinforcement plates for the front corners (circled). These will support the front clamshell parrot beaks and tow/tie down hooks. With the addition of 12 bolts and 3 aluminum panels, this should be ready for final construction.
Joe,
My previously owned clamshell came with fabricated 1/2” bolt mount pivots so decided their location and strength looked good enough to work with. I’ve cut out a couple tow bars brackets that both create a pivot point and tow hook loop. This first pic is with the clamshell open in almost vertical position.
I definitely have some refining to do as well as the “D” cut outs…also will add a crossbar between the two brackets to help strengthen and stabilize lateral movement plus a nod to the original look.
Thoughts?? I’m OPEN to critiques for sure as this set up will not allow me to just lift off the front as I had hoped but with the removal of the pivot bolts, I can.
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This is for Towing rather than lifting. I believe the FIA Spec was a 2” diameter hole - but you’re going to have to research that further..
Thanks Randy, understand it’s purpose…was actually asking for dimensions of both in the same sentence so bad form on my part. Ok cool 2” hole for tow hook. Was the lift bar 1” or 3/4” or something else? I think my front structure (with panels installed) will easily be able to support lifting of ~ 1200lbs from the combination of both brackets.
Somewhere in here are the drawings for the "Parrot's Beak" brackets that were used for lifting. I don't think I would use them for lifting the vehicle, however. Remember that those were fitted to racing cars and a little damage here at there was tolerated as the Parrot's Beaks may bend a bit and contact the bodywork..
Chris Kouba
Supporter
I would be nervous about that flat stock folding up at the slot you have for carrying the bolt. I'd call them ornamental in their current configuration.
I'd use something a bit stouter where you don't have a stress-concentrating slot cut in it if you want to lift it.
I'd use something a bit stouter where you don't have a stress-concentrating slot cut in it if you want to lift it.
You echo my thoughts too as I was thinking of welding up the intended parrot beak slot and just make it a bolt hole as the front clam will not simply lift off as I had hoped. Also am considering a reinforcement rod/piece to stiffen up any lateral pull forces in the case of tying it down for transport on a trailer or the like. Thanks all for the inputs as it’s nice to have a sounding board for these developmental pieces.
Worked on refining the shape by reducing the diameter of the exposed tow loop…2” inner diameter with about a 3” outer. I think I’ll leave it a “D” ring to add a little protection from any potential body damage. Next I’ll be reinforcing the length of the bracket and adding the “lift bar” which will most likely be just for replicating the look but also will add lateral stability for tie down purposes.
Found out through pics of other builds that my C5 donor rear sway bar (3/4”) works great as the front sway bar and mounted on the AP front bulkhead with adjustable (approximately 6” center to center) end links. Bought some poly mounts since they will be more firm and smaller footprint than the original C5s.
Think that the combo tow hook & jacking point (from the exposed part beyond the body) might be a goal too far, however, the front corners of the front subframe & radiator support appear to be more than adequate strength (after some quick testing) to use as a front jacking location. A good low profile Jack should easily reach this area (either corner) from the front or perhaps the main frame area just aft of the front wheels.
Think that the combo tow hook & jacking point (from the exposed part beyond the body) might be a goal too far, however, the front corners of the front subframe & radiator support appear to be more than adequate strength (after some quick testing) to use as a front jacking location. A good low profile Jack should easily reach this area (either corner) from the front or perhaps the main frame area just aft of the front wheels.
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